08 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
November 1. 
List op Fruit (S.).— We have classed your applet for you; at 
least, such of them as we know. If you refer to other parts of our 
pages you will find rules for gathering and storing them. All your 
pears arc dessert fruits ; and we need say nothing about your cher¬ 
ries, peaches, nectarines, and apricots. The Wmesour plum, is best 
as a preserve. Dessert Apples. —Ribstone Pippin, Greave’s Pippin, 
Devonshire (Dockers), Chester Pearmain, Lancashire Reinette, Blen¬ 
heim Pippin (kitchen also), Scarlet Golden Pippin, and Chelstone 
Pippin. Kitchen Apples. —Hawthornden, Northern Greening, King 
of Pippins, Alexander, Cornish Crab, Keswick Codling, Nelson, 
Cockpit, Bath, Bedfordshire Foundling, Normanton Wonder, and 
Holland Pippin. 
Wintering old Geraniums and Fuchsias (R. C. S.). —We 
think wc have answered this question a dozen times, and shewn every 
possible way. Pray refer to our two or three last Numbers. You 
say, “ I presume that the roots, if taken up, and well dried, and tied 
together, and hung up in a dry dark cellar, would live through the 
winter. We say yes, or anywhere else free from damp and frost. 
Soft-wooded Plants (It. Holley). —Your plants will do best on 
shelves in your cold pit, if you have head-room enough for them. 
Scarlet Rhododendron Seed (It. 1)., Ireland,).— You have 
been misinformed. The scarlet rhododendron will ripen its seeds in 
every county of the dear old country; but it is too good to sell, or too 
scarce, for we seldom hear of it in the market, and cannot say where 
it can be bought. 
Clematis Propagating (Tyro). —You ask for the best way of 
doing this, but, before we can answer, you must say which of the very 
numerous species you mean. Some are raised from cuttings, and 
others from layers. 
Hop Propagating (7 hid.) —Hops are usually raised from shoots 
issuing from the bottom of the old plants. The shoots are covered, 
or layered, till they make roots. They may also be raised from seeds. 
They are, however, not within our province. 
Glycine Sinensis (Ibid.) —The leaves turning yellow shew that 
there is something wrong at the roots. A very wet, or very poor soil, 
may be the cause. Situated as you are, your magnolia will not need 
protection. 
Name of Begonia (T. J.) —Although a cutting is sent by you, it 
is from a weak and stunted part of your plant, and has two leaves 
upon it. This is a long way from being a fair specimen to send to 
any one for the purpose of ascertaining its name, particularly when 
the family is a large one, as in this of the Begonia. A specimen in 
flower, and one that shows the whole character of the plant, is what 
we consider a fair specimen. We believe your plant to be the Bego¬ 
nia nitida. For your staircase window, Begonia discolor, or Evan- 
siana of some authors, is the most hardy kind that we know of. II. 
parvifolia would stand for a considerable time in flower in the same 
window. All the begonias are properly stove plants, and delight in 
plenty of heat, notwithstanding some are tried to be grown in houses 
of all work, and sometimes in pits. 
Pomegranate (Mrs. Corrie). —No part of Hampshire is too cold 
to flower the pomegranate against a south wall. We have seen it 
flowering and ripening fruit as far north as Morayshire, treated like a 
pot-vine; that is, kept dry in an out-house all the winter, and taken 
to a forcing-house in March. Cut out entirely half of the very small 
shoots now, and prune back those that are strongest of this season’s 
growth. Let the plants rest all the winter, under the stage of a cold 
greenhouse. As soon in March as you see the buds swelling shake 
half of the present soil from the roots, and replace it by a rich com¬ 
post. Keep the plants in doors till the end of May, and after that 
under the south wall, when they will be very likely to flower. 
Small Hyacinth Bulbs (C. J.). —Plant them three inches deep 
and six inches apart in the compost recommended for old roots; in 
three or four years they will come to a flowering size, and in seven 
years be as good as foreign bulbs if you treat them well. 
Verbena Cuttings (J. M. Lee). —Pray refer to our answers in 
previous numbers. We can hardly recommend roses without know¬ 
ing any one of your tastes or objects. If you will refer to our 
descriptive lists of roses, in our first volume, you might select for 
yourself; for there we give the colours, time of blooming, &c. How¬ 
ever, supposing we had to plant the roses according to our own taste, 
we should select for the centre—Madame Lafl'ay, Baron Prevost, 
Duchess of Sutherland, and William Jesse. These roses ought to be 
on their own roots ; if they are not, choose those on the shortest 
stocks; they will flower all the autumn. A row of China roses all 
round would make a variety. We should put Fabvier, Madame 
Brehon, Henry the 5tli, and Mrs. Bosanquet in one basket, and in 
the other scarlet geraniums, with an edging of white and ivy-leaf 
geraniums. 
Tritoma uvaria and media (C. 77. W.),—Plant these out at 
once; October is the best month. Put them under a south wall, 
or in the front of a greenhouse. They flourish best in peat, but will 
do if it is mixed with one-third of sandy loam. They require a slight 
covering during frosts. You may obtain them, and Anemone vitifolia, 
of any florist in your neighbourhood. 
Chiciiory (G. 717. L.). —You will find all the information you can 
require for its culture at pp. 50 and 191 of our last volume. Thanks 
for your note, which we will insert soon. 
Digging Flower Borders (J. W.). —Dig them over roughly 
now. The frost and snow will benefit the soil, and little more than 
the hoe and the rake will be required in the spring. Take care not 
to disturb your bulbs. 
Azaleas and Camellias (R. W. Laxton). —These will do bet¬ 
ter in your greenhouse than in your pit. 
Heliotrope (J. B., Bury St. Edmunds).— This should be kept 
through the winter in an airy part of the greenhouse, keeping the 
soil just free from dryness, and excluding the frost from it. 
Scented-leaved Geraniums (W. C.). —The following list in¬ 
cludes all yours except Balm and Currant-leaved, and may be ob¬ 
tained of the London nurserymen :—Apple-scented, Blandfordianum, 
Betuloefolium (Birch-leaved), Capitatum or Rose-scented, Capitatum 
major, nervifolium, and odoriferum; Citriodora, Citriodora major, 
rosea, and purpurea; Fair Emily, Fair Hellen, Fair Maid of Scot¬ 
land, Ivy-leaved white, purple, red, and striped ; Lady Plymouth, 
Lady Scarborough, Lobatum or Peppermint-scented, Lemon, Large 
Gold-striped, Striped (several varieties), Odorata superba, Odoratis- 
sima, Odoratissima erecta or Nutmeg, Prince of Orange, Princess 
Augusta, Quercifolium or Oak-leaved, Quercifolium major, Radula 
or Pheasant’s-foot, and Serratifolium. There are several other 
varieties, and we know of more than one gentleman who is hybridis¬ 
ing and raising fresh varieties annually. 
Thoughts (G. J. B.).— We are highly gratified to find that our 
instructions have enabled you to convert “ a bank of rubbish into a 
lovely flower-garden ;” hut the good “ thoughts of one of Northum¬ 
bria’s fairest daughters and of high degree,” must not occupy even a 
corner of our pages to the exclusion of other more practical contri¬ 
butions. 
Weigela Rosea (C. W. B.). —The plant growing in your border 
we should leave where it is. Do not prune it, nor give it any protec¬ 
tion, except two or three inches of coal-ashes over the surface above 
its roots. If your soil is not wet and exposed, and you are not living 
very far north, the plant will^survive the winter, and bloom well next 
season. 
Vines in Greenhouse (77. Taunton). —You had better keep a 
little fire at your greenhouse for the sake of your grapes, with plenty 
of air, for the sake of the:plants. If the bunches are placed in thin 
muslin, or even paper bags, the damp rising from the flower pots will 
not be so likely to injure them ; but then that would not assist their 
colouring, which, if so defective, wc fear will not now be greatly 
bettered this season, as we should think the grapes must be ripe. 
Hardy Creepers for outside a Green house (T. W. T. Leeds). 
The Dolichos sinensis is hardly worth growing in a greenhouse, as 
the flower is a dingy red, and hardy enough for the open air, in most 
places. As luxuriant creepers, which you wish to train along the 
25 feet in length rafters of a greenhouse, and hardy enough to be 
planted outside, without protection to the roots, we instance the 
following :—Dolichos lignosus, purple, the best of the family; Coboe a 
scandens, large bell flower, greenish purple ; Glycine sinensis, 
flowers early and fine in a house; Bignonia grandiflora, orange; 
Jasminum revolutum, yellow; Passiflnra eoerutea, whitish blue; 
P. coluilli, variegated; P. coerulea racemosa, purple; P. alatn 
coerulea, rose. These will all flourish in light sandy loam, with a 
portion of peat. But though the roots are not covered, the stems 
whcreitliey enter the house should be secured with small boxes set 
against them, filled with saw-dust, so that no frost or damp may 
touch them in winter. If the border was scattered with a few spruce 
branches in cold weather, it would be all in their favour. If the 
border was “ very much shaded,” or badly drained, we should prefer 
grow'ing them in pots in the house, if they could not be planted out, 
or substituting for the’Bignonia and the two or three last Passifloras 
such plants as the Maurandya, Eccremocarpus and Lophospermum. 
Geranium Cuttings. —An Amateur will find his efforts much 
more successful now that he has a stove to his greenhouse. “ The va¬ 
luable geranium cuttings, in sand, under glass in the compost yard, 
not yet sufficiently rooted,” will notjbe safe if left there during the 
winter, as, without great care, they would suffer both from cold 
and damp. Take them up carefully, and place them in sandy soil, 
around the edges of small pots, and make such an arrangement in 
transferring them to a good position in the greenhouse, that you can 
cover them for a time, with a hand-glass, or an’oiled paper box, and 
thus, while your greenhouse plants are luxuriating in the fresh air you 
will be giving them, your proteges of cuttings will be as secure from 
evaporating their juices as when they were snug in the compost heap. 
It would be advisable to take off the glass at night, to prevent them 
being drawn weak. 
Garden Plan (J. A. M .).—The arrangement of a garden must 
ever depend upon the tastes and wishes of the'proprietor, and, there¬ 
fore, we can only allude to the matter in general terms. 1st. As the 
north and west borders are cropped with strawberries we would fill the 
east with the same, unless it would give you more than you require. 
By having the north border chiefly supplied with late kinds the fruit 
season would be longer prolonged ; full directions for their treatment 
have already been given. 2nd. The espaliers should be brought into a 
little shape if they are to remain ; if too far gone for training they may 
be left as dwarf standards, or turned in a circular manner round stakes. 
If there is only two feet from the trees to the walk little could be 
grown in such a border with advantage, unless perhaps a few violets, 
heartsease, or pinks, as they would not interfere with the trees. 3rd! 
Under the large space occupied by the large trees, and which we pre¬ 
sume is next the house, if not very thick, we would collect all the pot¬ 
herbs into one corner. Violets, bulbs, and early low-growing spring 
plants, and heartsease, would also flourish in the open spots. Next 
to these trees we would have our flower-beds and fruit-garden, by 
collecting all the currants, gooseberries, raspberries, &c., which’ are 
scattered about in the borders, so that eaeh part of the garden might 
convey a different but distinct impression—fruit and flowers in one 
place, vegetables in another. 1 th. The common garden wheelbarrow 
made of wood, the wheel shod with iron, is the best for general pur! 
poses. 
London : Printed by Harry Wooldridge, 147, Strand, m the 
Parish of Saint Mary-le-Strand; and Winchester High-street, in 
the Parish of St. Mary Ivalendar; and Published by William 
Somerville Orr, at the Office, 147, Strand, in the Parish of 
Saint Mary-le-Strand, London.—October 25tli, 1849. 
