THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
December 27 
104 
means must be taken to keep the beat equalized, tor, 
like a bonfire, the wind will drive the heat towards 
the opposite side. A little loose fresh litter will 
accomplish this, and, if such be scarce, a few stakes j 
may be thrust into that side, and the litter suspended j 
on "the stakes, or a net or two may be used. It is 
astonishing what a small matter not in close contact 
with the mass will prevent the injurious effects of 
stormy weather in this respect, especially if carried . 
higher than the body of the manure, or, in other 
words, high enough to carry the wind over it. As 
soon as the heap becomes heated and reeks consider¬ 
ably it must be turned with forks. We deprecate 
the practice of letting it remain until it is, what is 
termed, “ burned”—that is to say, become whitened 
and dry; those who do so entirely forget that the 
principal object is to dissipate the noxious gases 
(which arise chiefly from the urine contained in the 
mass) without too much breaking down the material. 
As before observed, durability is requisite in the bed 
at this early period, and we need scarcely say that 
hurried decomposition is averse to that principle. 
In turning it, evei’v lock or tuft should be shook to 
pieces, or rather divided, like tedding hay; this is 
most important in the first stages. Care should be 
taken, moreover, that the outer part be exchanged 
for the middle of the heap. If any huskiness is per¬ 
ceived, either at this or any of the subsequent turn¬ 
ings, water must be liberally applied—as much as 
will keep the whole mass black; for water is, after 
all, the great purifier. The second heating will not 
he quite so rapid, for a good part of the fiery gases 
will have escaped during the first stage; nevertheless, 
enough will remain to render the dung totally unfit 
for early forcing. In about a week, or perhaps less, 
another turning will be requisite, proceeding pre¬ 
cisely as before, and still using a screen of any kind, 
provided cold winds should prevail. It is probable 
that by this time more water will be requisite than 
before. We would, however, as before observed, 
turn more frequently, in order to prevent “burning.” 
We have now described two “ turnings,’ subsequent 
to the first throwing of the dung together, and many 
persons, we may observe, will venture to build the 
bed soon after. Let us, however, persuade all be¬ 
ginners to give at least another turning; for every 
turning purifies the fermenting mass still more and 
more. In little more than a fortnight, the whole of 
the turnings may have been carried out. It may 
then he observed, that if leaves are to be blended 
with the mass one turning less may suffice. In 
using the leaves, equal portions may be blended, 
provided they are of the oak or beech ; but if of the 
soft-wooded trees, there should be nearly two parts 
of dung to one of the leaves for early forcing. When 
the dung is fit for building the bed it will be, what 
practical men term, “sweet,” a term which, at first 
thought, seems oddly enough applied to manure ; 
nevertheless it is, we conceive, justly applicable, for 
well-worked dung is almost as sweet as new-made 
hay. Tt has a scent closely approximating that of 
mushrooms; and we need scarcely add, that few 
persons would term the scent of mushrooms nau¬ 
seous. The mixture then, after being blended care¬ 
fully together, (and too much pains cannot be taken 
to inix the dung thoroughly with the leaves) will 
now be fit for building ; and we may as well offer a 
little advice about this part of the process. 
Buit/dtng the Bed. —The great thing to be avoided 
in early cucumber forcing is, what practical men 
term “ burning ; ” this we before described as apper¬ 
taining to the dung-lieap. The same may take place 
in the bed, if precautions be not taken. Of course, 
when the plants are planted out in the bed, the 
bottom heat must be controlled within certain limits, 
or the plants are at once destroyed. Ninety degrees 
is the maximum beat which the plants will endure at 
the root; indeed, this is by no means safe, and certainly 
somewhat unnatural to permit so large an amount. 
Now, in order to avoid this burning, many expe¬ 
dients are resorted to. Some persons form the body 
of the bed of brush wood; others form a hollow 
chamber beneath, by posts and slabs, and many 
other expedients have been resorted to, according 
to the fancy of the operators, all based on the prin¬ 
ciple of permitting much depth for powerful linings, 
when necessary, without keeping up an unnecessary 
amount of dung All these modes are respectively 
good, other things being properly carried out. As, 
however, many amateurs cannot avail themselves ol 
brush wood and slabs without unnecessary expense, 
we will point to a plan which will enable the ope¬ 
rator to build a safe bed by means of well worked 
dung alone. The base of the bed being "marked out 
on a dry plot of ground, where water cannot remain, 
any dry unfermentable rubbish of an open character, 
may be placed in it for nearly a foot in depth. If 
sticks or stones are at hand, such will be as good as 
any thing. This done, firmly on a base or founda¬ 
tion, nine inches wider than the frame, all round, 
the building by dung may proceed. After one foot 
of dung is properly placed, or the bed a toot higher, 
let the situation of the future hillocks in which the 
plants are to he set be correctly ascertained, and on 
the centre of each place a very large garden pot, 
of at least twelve inches diameter at the top, the 
bottom being purposely punched out; small butter 
firkins, without bottoms, or even large chimney¬ 
pots, may answer: in fact, any thing cylindrical 
and somewhat conical. Tins settled, continue the 
building of the bed to the desired height, filling 
the inside of the pot or vessel as the building 
proceeds with any inert or unfermenting material 
of a very porous character ; indeed, brickbats, or 
broken masses of stone, are excellent. As the 
building proceeds, they, the vessels, must be drawn 
upwards, taking care'they are kept nearly full of 
the above material; and when the bed is of the 
desired height, the vessels may be removed alto- 
altogether, when, of course, the centres before al¬ 
luded to, will be a dead unfermenting mass, serving 
thus to prevent the entire cooperation of the whole 
mass of manure, and guaranteeing the plant a tem¬ 
perate substratum, althoug surrounded, it may be, 
with materials having a tendency to burn. A bed 
in January should be nearly five feet high at the 
back, and ’about four feet in front, and about a foot 
in height, or nearly so, may be given up monthly, 
as the season advances. As soon as the bed is built, 
some long litter should be placed snugly around it 
to ensure speedy fermentation; and, as soon as the 
bed is becoming’hot, water must be liberally applied. 
This will prevent burning, and will carry entirely 
away any remaining effluvia of a noxious character. 
Earthing the Bed. —In a week or ten days it 
may be got ready for the plants, and some mellow 
soil, of a dark and soft character—a mixture of old 
vegetable soil or humus, and heath soil—will be best 
for an early period. 
We have said nothing about the seed-bed, for the 
principles of fermentation here laid down will serve 
both purposes. It will nevertheless be necessary 
shortly to offer advice about the subsequent manage- 
ment of the fraiting-bed. R< Errington. 
