208 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
say, a soil possessing a slight amount of adhesive¬ 
ness, provided stagnation of moisture is duly guarded 
against, by a perfect drainage ; and by introducing, 
when necessary, any imperishable materials, as fine 
sand, to prevent a too great adhesion through time. 
Such being removed, the border must have a good 
watering: using tepid water of from TO to 80 degrees. 
It the border is very dry, clear water may be used as 
the first application ; for, in that event, it will be well 
to give a second application after two days; and this 
may be a good liquid-manure. If the border is not 
particularly dry, one moderate watering of liquid- 
manure may be sufficient. 
Borders, in a very dry state, sometimes become 
rifted or cracked, in which event, most of the water 
first applied runs through the openings at once into 
the drains, without penetrating the mass of soil. 
Young beginners, therefore, should be on their guard, 
and learn to distinguish such things nicely; for much 
of the success in gardening depends on a correct ap¬ 
preciation of what, at first sight, appear trifles. 
As to liquid-manure, every cultivator seems to prefer 
his own kind ; ours, which we have found excellent 
for general purposes, is composed of urine, guano, 
and soot-water. It is pretty well known that first-rate 
Peruvian guano is quite as powerful as plants can 
bear, after the rate of four ounces to a gallon of water. 
Plants in a growing state, however, are more sensi¬ 
tive to injuries than those in a state of dormancy. 
Nevertheless, we should not deem it expedient to use 
it stronger even to the peach border, when coupled 
with the additional strength of urinary matters from 
the cowhouse, or elsewhere. We would advise that 
every gallon of the guano-water, of the above strength, 
leceive one quart ot the urine, and some soot-water: 
the latter may be used pretty strong, as it is not so 
caustic as the other materials. About a pint of soot, 
to a gallon of water, is amply sufficient; and equal 
parts of this may fairly be blended with the same of 
the guano mixture. Still, let it be understood, that 
this is the maximum amount, taking the whole to¬ 
gether : at least, we dare not recommend more ; it is 
well to keep within bounds, for, certainly, good fruit 
may be produced without it. With such a mixture, 
then, the horde]- may receive a thorough watering, at 
the temperature before named. 
A top-dressing may now be applied immediately, 
for we hold it good practice, to apply a little fresh, or 
maiden, soil, annually, in order to coax the fibres to 
the surface. Nothing is better for this purpose than 
a compost of half pure maiden loam—not too sandy, 
and the other half leaf or vegetable soil: the whole 
well blended. Such may be laid on nearly three 
inches thick, and on this we recommend a mulching, 
of a couple more inches of horse droppings, nearly 
fresh. J 
I he border now is done with for the present, and 
we must see how forcing must really be commenced 
We may suppose that other preliminary matters’ 
such as flue cleaning, white-washing, repairs, paint¬ 
ing, and, indeed, anything else connected with the 
building, or the heating apparatus, have been duly 
carried out before this period; and that the trees have 
been pruned, and also dressed with a mixture anta¬ 
gonistic to the scale and the red spider. Such beiim 
the case, the forcing period may commence ; ancf, 
with regard to the peach, a very moderate beginning j 
it must be. Everybody must remember a fine April 
day, when the poor primroses, previously bound in 
adamant, through the conjoint tyranny of the ice- 
king and a drying east wind, all of a sudden find 
themselves in dalliance with the gentle zephyr; and 
[January f 7. 
when the driving sleet is exchanged for the mild and 
copious dews of a returning spring; every one, w'e 
say, has known and appreciated such a state of atmo¬ 
sphere, in which both man and beast exult. Such, 
then, is a model for the air of a peach-house or vinery, 
during the earlier stage of forcing; merely premis¬ 
ing, that the peach is more impatient of heat in this 
stage than the vine; indeed, there may be considered 
nearly ten degrees difference between them at all 
times, except when the wood is completing its matu 
rity,—when the peach will enjoy as much as the vine. 
However, to be more definite, we must give some set 
rules for the guidance of beginners; to others, we say, 
fix your eyes more on principles than rules. 
1’or the first week of closing the house, an average 
temperature of 50° will be necessary ; and, in the 
next week, or ten days, an advance of five degrees 
may be permitted: here, however, no farther advance 
may be made, at least, with artificial heat, until the 
blossom-buds begin to enlarge considerably; and 
some of the most forward, exhibiting the tint of the 
blossom about this period, it will be well to com¬ 
mence making some distinction between day and 
night temperature, a course scarcely necessary before; 
and, from this period, an advance of two or three de¬ 
grees may be permitted in the day, especially if sunny, 
when 60° will be beneficial. Still, however, let that 
be the maximum, especially if the forcing is very 
early. When the trees have done blossoming, and 
the leaf is expanding, a smart increase of heat may 
be permitted during sunshine, using the advanced 
temperature chiefly during the afternoon, for a liberal 
ventilation must be had recourse to in the early part 
of the day. 
As to temperature, henceforward little deviation 
need occur by means of artificial heat, until the 
period when stoning commences : this may be known 
by the young fruit (hitherto swelling) becoming sta¬ 
tionary of a sudden. Much caution is necessary 
during the earlier portion of this period; and fires 
had better be dispensed with, whenever possible. 
Through the period of the first swelling, then, we 
will say a day temperature of 05°, if artificially sup¬ 
plied; shutting up with sun heat in the afternoon to 
nearly 80°- And at night, during the same period, 
from 40 to 55 degrees. 
We will finish with a few maxims of importance:— 
First, keep up a considerable amount of humidity 
in the atmosphere, from the moment that forcing 
commences, until the first blossom opens ; syringing 
daily. Fermenting material, inside the house, is of 
great service in promoting a steady germination. 
Secondly, when in blossom, withhold much of the 
moisture, and give air most liberally; keeping, if re¬ 
quisite, more fire-beat in the day, in order to support 
the amount of ventilation. At all other periods use i 
the syringe liberally, battering right and left, in order 
to disturb the eggs of the red spider : for these are 
almost sure to appear. 
- Thirdly, let all increase of temperature bear a con¬ 
stant and close relation to the amount of light; and 
let atmospheric moisture increase with the tempera¬ 
ture, excepting whilst the fruit is ripening. 
Fourthly, whenever dark weather occurs, let the 
forcer betake himself to the lowest temperature pre 
scribed : that is, those who must go by mere rules 
Insects. —No success, in peach culture, can ever 
be attained, it insects are allowed to keep a footing. 
I he first in the season are the peach aphides; as soon 
as one only is perceived, the house must be fumi¬ 
gated two evenings successively. Indeed, a thorough 
lumigation should always precede the unfolding of 
