January HI.] 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
of manure at the bottom, tlio roots always spindled 
well, grew clean, and had few lateral fibres. Fol¬ 
iate crops of peas, which mildew chiefly from a defi¬ 
ciency of moisture to the root, it is an object to keep 
their radiculte near the surface, for the sake of the 
light depositions of moisture incident to their season 
of growth; hence it will always be found of benefit 
to cover the earth over the rows with a little well 
rotted dung, and to point it lightly in. 
It may be accepted as an universal maxim, that 
whatever causes an excessive development of root 
prevents the production of seed; and vice versa, the 
production of seed, especially in tuberous-rooted 
plants, reduces the amount of root developed. Thus, 
frequent transplanting the young plants of the let¬ 
tuce, brocoli, and cauliflower causes the production 
of numerous fibrous roots, and is found effective in 
preventing the mature plants advancing early to 
seed. The early varieties of the potato do not natu¬ 
rally produce seed; but if their tubers are removed 
as soon as they are formed, these early varieties bear 
seed as freely as the later kinds, a fact suggesting 
many experiments to the cultivators of sliy-blooming 
tuberous-rooted flowers. Again, if the blossoms of 
these later varieties are plucked off as they appear, 
the weight of tubers produced will be very materially 
increased. 
THE ERUIT-GAKDEN. 
Vines in Pots. — Repeated applications having 
been made for information concerning vine forcing 
in pots, we now take up the subject, and, in doing 
so, it will be requisite to defer entering into the whole 
course of culture necessary as a preliminary proceed¬ 
ing at the present moment, on account of the period 
we write for, knowing that many persons, who have 
established plants by them, are anxious for a little 
practical advice. In a short period, we hope to re¬ 
sume the subject, and we shall trace the culture of 
the potted vine from the “ eye,” or cutting, up to the 
forcing period. 
Preparing Plants. —We may now suppose that 
the forcer is in possession of good strong fruiting 
plants, and that they have been wintered securely, 
that is to say, have been kept tolerably dry, and not 
subjected to very severe weather; also, that they had 
been pruned in the autumn. Before introducing 
them to heat, it is well to dress their shoots after the 
manner of those in the hothouse up the rafters; a 
plan which, although not indispensable, is of some 
benefit, as tending to prevent the hatching of any in¬ 
sect eggs which may be deposited on their shoots, for 
such is almost sure to be the case. The mixture 
generally used is made by beating up soft soap in 
warm water, at the rate of about five ounces to the 
gallon, and then adding at least one pound of flowers 
of sulphur. It is well, also, to thicken it by some 
means to the consistence of thick paint, and, to this 
end, we use clay. As much clay, then, may be added 
as will accomplish this, and the whole being tho¬ 
roughly blended, may be applied with a painter’s 
brush, plastering it all over the wood, and into every 
chink or crevice. This done, wo recommend that 
each end, where the pruning knife has operated, be 
231 
daubed with thick paint, or white lead ; for strong 
young vines are apt to bleed on being introduced to 
heat, and this effectually prevents it. Care, however, 
must be taken that the wounds are perfectly dry 
when the paint is applied, or it will not adhere per¬ 
fectly. 
Soil. —The next point is to examine carefully the 
state of the soil, both at the surface of the pot, and 
at its bottom. As to the surface, some portion will 
be found worn out, of a loose or powdery character, 
and containing no fibres. All such should bo re¬ 
moved with a pointed stick, loosening and emptying 
out all containing no roots, and replacing it with ti 
powerful compost. If much is removed, and there is 
consequently room for much compost, we would ad¬ 
vise the use of lumps of turf, which should have 
been cut a few months previously, and which had 
been dried in some shed; this should be in pieces as 
large as a middle-sized potato, and much of the loose 
soil, being dry, should be shook out. With this, a 
finer compost may be used, composed of sound loam 
and good rotten manure, adding some small char¬ 
coal, and some fine bone dust. The manure should 
be good. Cow-dung, mellowed by age, or old night- 
soil, will be found highly useful. In filling up 
the pots, the turfy lumps should be placed first, all 
over the surface, and the finer compost shook over 
and amongst it, taking care that at least two inches 
of the finer compost surmounts the turfy lumps. 
This is a necessary course in all top-dressing affairs, 
where porous turf is thus used; the finer compost 
acts as a regulator or controller of the moisture of 
the turfy material, which, without this, is apt to be¬ 
come suddenly dry, and to act fitfully. And now 
the bottom of the pot must be examined, in order 
to see if no obstructions have taken place in the 
drainage. We should, however, have advised this 
to be done before adding the fresh top-dressing, as 
turning the pot or tub on one side for this purpose, 
would be apt to disarrange the top-dressing, which, 
once fixed and pressed down, should remain without 
disturbance. Any lodgment in the holes of the pots 
should be picked out carefully with a spike-nail, or 
sharp-pointed stick, and if obstructions should be 
suspected beyond the reach of this procedure, the 
ball must be turned out, and any extraneous matter 
from worms, or other sources, carefully removed, 
taking care to adjust the crocks, or other drainage 
materials, at the same time, in order to facilitate the 
free discharge of water, without which, it will be abso¬ 
lutely impossible to obtain success. If the turning out 
can be avoided, all the better; for one of the worst 
faults attending this, is the difficulty of placing the 
ball in precisely the same position again, which is 
very necessary, for, in the event of a change in posi¬ 
tion, there are sure to be many open cavities, down 
which the water will be too apt to escape in subse¬ 
quent waterings, to the desertion of the ball, through 
which it should be made to percolate in an even 
way. An old practitioner—one used to the potting 
bench—can readily replace a ball in its old position; 
it is, nevertheless, a rule-of-thumb affair, only ac¬ 
quired by long practice. 
Commencing Forcing. —All these things being 
accomplished, the plant is now ready to be intro¬ 
duced to a warmer climate; and here we must pause 
to ascertain what situations are available, and, also, 
what conditions are necessary. 
Bottom-heat. —Whatever situation may be chosen 
for the vines ultimately, it will be of eminent service, 
if. in their earlier stages, at least, they can have the 
advantage of a moderate bottom-heat. We are quite 
