2 THE COTTAGE 
aware that not every one cam comply with the condi¬ 
tions here laid down ; still, in offering advice, we do 
not deem it a duty to compromise principles of im- 
poi tance, but rather to point to what, we conceive, is 
the highest course of culture. Bottom-heat is now 
beginning to be considered a valuable adjunct even 
to outside borders, where the roots have free liberty 
to range for food: how much, more so, then, for vines 
in pots, where, from the very limited supply of food, 
every means must be taken to obtain an active root, 
and to keep it so: and where a sudden check is almost 
sure to prove fatal to a really successful issue? It is, 
however, not so much in any jirecise amount of bot¬ 
tom-heat alone that reliance must be placed, but in 
the relation that amount bears to the average atmo¬ 
spheric heat. 
Light.— The amount of light, as we have before 
observed, is the guiding-star of this and all other 
toicing matters, where elaborative processes have to 
be carried out; such things as sea-kale, asparagus, 
&c., forming an exception : here, mere development 
of buds already organised is sought. Such being the 
case, the amount of bottom-heat which might be re¬ 
commended for May or June, would by no means be 
the most eligible lor December or January. As a 
guide to the amateur, we would, then, suggest that 
three distinct periods might be considered as com¬ 
prising the history of vine-forcing in pots—from the 
commencement of the process to the complete ripen¬ 
ing of the fruit. These we would thus divide :_ 
First. —From the commencement to the blossom 
shewing. 
Second, from the latter to the beginning of the 
stoning process. 
J hh d. From the stoning to the ripening. 
W e find that we have been drawn rather too deep 
into the subject tor a single paper ; we must cease 
pursuing abstract principles, and come to details 
Temperature.— During the whole of the forcing 
it is our firm persuasion that it would be well for tlTe 
root to be situated in a medium, three or fom - degrees 
warmer than the average atmospheric heat. Vines 
in pots, to be introduced now, should, during the first 
period, have a bottom-heat of about 70°, whilst during 
this stage, the atmospheric heat need not by any 
means exceed (30°—indeed, 55°, until the leaf begins 
to unfold, would be better. It will be seen here that 
the object is to get the root into action somewhat 
before the top, in order that the buds may develope 
with freedom, and escape what is termed “ blindness ” 
which, although not caused by the want of such pre¬ 
cautions, is much aggravated by improper treatment 
or by neglect. 
By the time that the bunch is to be seen, the 
tactics must, in some degree, be changed. An atmo¬ 
spheric temperature from 65° to 70° must be secured 
by day, falling to about 55° or 58° by night; the 
bottom-heat, also, if possible, advanced in a like ratio 
As the season advances, and the second period 
begms to merge into the third, much atmospheric 
advance by sunshine may be allowed. A thermometer 
rising to Ho in the afternoon, on bright days, will 
be beneficial. J 
Atmospheric Moisture must, of course, abound 
during the first period; and, until the vines break 
little ventilation, unless to keep down heat, will be 
requisite. Afterwards, however, a free, yet cautious 
ventilation much benefits them: rendering the whole' 
plant more robust. 
Training. Whether plunged, or, as is oftentimes 
the case, set over a back flue, or on the kerb-stones of 
pine or other pits, care must be taken to train them 
GARDENER. [January 31 
carefully up, in order to present as much perfect 
foliage to the light as possible. Some “stop” one 
joint beyond the fruit, as with rafter vines ; we 
think, however, that two or three joints will be found 
better. After this stopping, the secondary shoots 
should be allowed to range a little; never stopping 
or disbudding all at once, but always keeping some 
point or points growing: thus will fresh fibres be 
constantly kept a-going—amatter of some importance. 
Watering. —This is a most material item in pot- 
culture; so much so, that injudicious watering will 
soon ruin the crop. Presuming that the pots are 
thoroughly drained, they will take water liberally ; 
especially if unplunged, and over a warm flue. When 
really getting dry, enough water should be given to 
moisten the ball entirely through ; and we advise the 
constant use of liquid-manure, from the moment they 
are out of blossom: using it weak, and perfectly clear 
A brewing of soot-water in one vessel, and good Peru¬ 
vian guano in another, will furnish a capital liquor; 
the guano at the rate of two ounces to a gallon, add- 
ing a gallon of soot-water to a gallon of the guano- 
water. . It should always be given of a tempera¬ 
ture quite equal to the average temperature of the 
house. When plunged, the pots will not require 
above half as much water. We will return to pot- 
culture when we get an opportunity. 
R. Errington. 
THE FLOWER-GARDEN. 
Timely Hints upon Digging Hardy Herbace¬ 
ous Flower-beds. —The time is now near at hand 
when most persons, who have gardens, will be very 
busy in this way, whether the plants are in beds upon 
a lawn, or in straight-line borders by the side of prin¬ 
cipal walks, or dotted about in the front of plantations. 
No matter where they are planted, such flowers are 
very beautiful, improperly treated, and nicely arranged, 
according to their various heights and colours. But they 
will not all endure the same treatment; many of them 
do best when not disturbed at the root for many years: 
such as the Veratrums, Delphiniums, Cimidfugas Ac- 
tceas, perennial Lathy ruses, Arobuses, Pceonias,’ and 
many others; on the other hand, very many require 
judicious dividing, and regulating of their roots, 
yearly, to keep them up to the mark of perfection.' 
Among such are the Monardas, Phlox crassifolia, P. 
stolonifera, P. proenmbens, Prunellas, Diclytras, and 
Sedums. In tact, nearly all the upright-growing 
Phloxes like dividing, and a new situation about every 
three years, to keep them growing in perfection; and 
the same is the case with many other kinds of hardy 
herbaceous plants. But then these, and the Phloxes 
require a good top-dressing of leaf-mould and loam’ 
equal parts, instead of the spade, among their roots’ 
At the end of three years, then, take them up, divide 
them, and give them a new situation. But, as I said 
before, some of them, to do well, should not be root- 
injured, or moved, for years; whilst others spread 
themselves over a wide space of surface in one year 
particularly if the plant is doing well. ’ 
Now, when fine open weather comes, in February 
the master, or lady, of a small establishment, wants 
the plantation dressed off very neatly, in which there 
are some very choice hardy herbaceous plants, but 
there are no labels to any of them. The groom is 
called, who professes to know everything. He con¬ 
fesses his very great fondness for gardening; but, to 
every-one else, declares that he hates it above all 
things! lie goes to work, with the spade, among 
these beautiful flowers, and where he sees a plant that 
I 
