THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
257 
February 7.J 
than it would be, if the glasses were taken off occa¬ 
sionally. Frequently, it will be sufficient to water 
tho outside of the glasses only, the water will perco¬ 
late through and wet the moss, and that will keep tho 
soil in which the plant grows, in a state moist enough, 
for a considerable time. 
Propagation .—The only way these plants can bo 
propagated, is by taking off a young sucker with a 
root attached, and managing it exactly as the older 
plants, in respect to soil and situation. The only 
difference will be in placing it in a smaller pot, and 
with a smaller bell-glass over it. If an old plant 
happens to have several shoots belonging to it, it may 
be split up into as many plants as there may bo 
shoots; each division will soon make a good plant. 
Piiysurus Argentea, and P. Argentea Pigtus, are 
two plants of similar habit to the foregoing, but with 
leaves of a lighter green, and silver-coloured mark¬ 
ings, instead of the golden ones of Ansectochilus. 
They are extremely beautiful, though by no means 
equal to the last; but are more hardy, and, conse¬ 
quently, easier to manage. 
Culture. —Potting, placing under a bell-glass, water¬ 
ing, and propagation, are in all points similar. 
We have seen these plants, all of them grown in 
a middling way, without the bell glasses, but we do 
not consider it safe to follow that practice. We have 
tried it repeatedly, and found it deficient. For a time, 
in the warm days of summer, the plants will grow, if 
in a favourable situation, pretty well, but in dark and 
dull winter they will languish and grow weaker. The 
bell-glass system is the safest and best, in our opinion, 
and will answer well in almost every situation; only, 
these orchids must be grown in the moist Indian 
house. 
Resting.— To know when the bulbs are in a proper 
state to go to i - est, may be, to our readers, of some con¬ 
sequence. They ought to be strong, and, if expected 
to flower, at least three feet high, stout and firm, 
quite to the apex. All the leaves ought to turn yel¬ 
low, and drop off in the same manner as any other 
annually leaf-shedding plant; and all this ought to 
take place early in autumn. As soon as it does so, 
remove the plant, or plants, into a drier and cooler 
house, and keep them there until the buds at the 
bottom of each pseudo-bulb begin to appear. The 
season for potting Cyrtopodiums has arrived; and 
this is one reason why we have just now written 
the above account of the peculiar treatment they re¬ 
quire. We always try so to time our instructions as 
to suit the season, immediately when such operations 
are required. “There is a time to plant” (or pot, we 
may say), is the remark of the wise man; and as 
there is nothing that marks the zealous, successful 
planter more than taking time by the forelock, so 
we say to the grower of these, and of any other plants, 
let not a day pass when the right time comes, to pot 
your tender and cared-for plants, as near the very day 
proper to do such work as possible. 
FLORISTS’ FLOWERS. 
As we may reasonably expect very soon to have 
finer weather, clearer skies, and a warmer atmos¬ 
phere, we must begin to look about us sharply, that 
nothing is wanting, on our part, to do all we can to 
forward the necessary operations amongst our pets, 
that may be needful to be done. We have lately had 
a peep or two of sunshine, which has been a com¬ 
modity considerably at a premium through January. 
The plants in frames and pits have been kept close 
covered, by good florists, for a longer period than 
usual; but there has been a few days when they 
might be uncovered, and light, air, and, in some 
instances, a small quantity of water given to them. 
And right welcome these indications of more genial 
weather will have been, both to the florist and his 
plants. We have only a brief space left to notice 
what we consider necessary to be done in this de¬ 
partment. 
Pinks —These plants will require attention as soon 
as the frost disappears. They were planted out in 
their blooming-beds in the autumn, and the frost will 
have had the effect to loosen them in that situation. 
Choose a dry day, and press the earth with the hand 
closely again to each plant. If necessary, add a 
little dry, light, rich earth, to the surface: it will 
refresh them much. 
Carnations and Picotees. — Look out for that 
plague, the spot on the leaves. If you observe any 
leaves so infested, cut them off at once, or it will 
spread unmercifully, and may destroy the whole plant, 
and, what is worse, infect the whole flock. To such 
plants as are healthy, you may now give water, in 
moderate quantity.—T. Appleby. 
THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. 
Tue season of general business for cropping the 
kitchen-garden is now fast approaching, and advan¬ 
tage must, therefore, be taken, on all favourable op¬ 
portunities, to carry on all the requisite operations, 
with judgment and economy. Neatness and order 
should at all times prevail, and everything should be 
done in a regular and systematic manner. Trench¬ 
ing, ridging, forking, and scarifying the earth’s sur¬ 
face, for obtaining a healthy, pulverized soil, must 
be well attended to—this being the main-spring of 
good culture; not only preventing the brooding and 
ravages of vermin, but also the trouble of seeking 
for them when the growing season arrives: it also 
establishes and maintains a regularity and even¬ 
ness amongst all crops. 
Cauliflowers should be turned out of pots, under 
hand-glasses, and be planted on warm, sloping banks. 
Cabbage Plants. —If any blanks occur, they should 
be filled up, and another crop planted. 
Peas. —Some of the best kinds of second early, 
and late kinds, may now be planted in full crop,— 
such as the Charlton, one of the very best kinds for 
a small garden; very productive of good-length pods, 
and a lasting bearer; growing from five to six feet 
high. The Scimetar Blue, which is a well-known 
prolific pea, of good quality, and well worthy of cul¬ 
ture in any garden; follows close in succession to the 
Charlton, growing four or five feet high. Knight's 
Green Marrow and the Woodford Marrow are both 
good late peas, of fine quality, and lasting bearers, 
which come in July and August, and grow from five to 
seven feet high, on good ground. The Thurston Reliance 
Pea is the best modern pea I have seen; with us, in 
Devonshire, it grows about eight feet high, is very 
prolific, with large pods, well filled with a large, hand¬ 
some-shaped, and fine-flavoured pea; it lasts well in 
bearing, and comes in July and August. Knight’s 
Tall Marrow is too well known to require any com¬ 
ment ; it is, certainly, not adapted for very small gar¬ 
dens, unless the proprietor wishes to grow one kind 
only, and has the patience to waitfor a good-tasting, late 
pea, the superior qualities of which are not exceeded 
by any other variety. One half-pint, with us, we find 
sufficient to plant 100 feet in length. They require 
to be planted thinly, as, by timely stopping, they will 
branch from every joint; and, on well trenched and 
richly-manured soil, they grow, with us, from 12 to 10 
