272 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
Jerusalem Artichokes (F. C.).—' The reason these become 
black, when boiled, often arises from the knife used in peeling them, 
or other iron in some mode coming in contact with them. If their 
skins are brushed off with a scrubbing-brush, and no iron is allowed to 
touch them, they do not turn black. The acid they coutain strikes 
this colour with iron. 
Rhododendrons (Beta). —We fear that these planted “in £ very 
stiff soil, almost all clay, and pretty well manured with stable ma¬ 
nure,” are placed in jeopardy. However, they are on a bank, and 
this is in their favour ; but we should incorporate in the surface-soil 
about them as much sandy peat as you can afford, mixed with equal 
parts of sand. 
Binding The Cottage Gardener (A Subscriber from, the Be¬ 
ginning). —You can obtain a very handsome cover, for binding the 
two volumes in one, at our Office, for less than eighteen pence ; and 
any country binder can bind into it. You may remove yarn mulberry- 
tree m the autumn, if you use the precautions we have given for re¬ 
moving trees generally, in former numbers. Eighteen years is mere 
infancy in a mulberry-tree. 
Sub-surface Manuring Asparagus (J. D., Ohl Brampton ).— 
Our correspondent says, “ I have placed two inch perforated zinc 
pipes, about nine inches below the surface, between each two rows of 
asparagus plants imbedded in the cuttings of the beds in the autumn, 
and long new wheat straw, in order to insure percolation. My manure- 
pit contains about two loads of horse-dung, over which is poured daily 
the sewage of a house inhabited by five persons.” This liquid- 
manure you may begin to apply in April, putting to each bucketful 
a similar quantity of water. Apply twice a-week, and give four 
bucketsful of the mixture each time to each bed 24 feet long. The 
tiles, &c., you mentiopjare expensive and inefficient. 
Cochin-China Fowls (J. Crisp, Hope Cottage, Norwood).— Our 
correspondent wishes to negotiate for an exchange for these of some 
genuine Chinese pigs. 
Ranunculuses. —In the notice of Ranunculuses at page 236, the 
prices were quoted from an old list; and we are informed that those 
of 1850 are considerably reduced. The senior partner of the firm of 
Tyso and Son retired through age in 1848, and the business has since 
been carried on solely by Carey Tyso. See advertisement of last 
week. 
Joints of Hot-water Pipes.— (M. D - Decora.)—These are 
often troublesome if not put together by good workmen, and if used, 
before the stuffing has become sufficiently set. We know of nothing 
better than—when the joints are quite dry, plugging them full and 
tight, driving it in with a chisel and mallet—tow thoroughly mixed 
with white lead. Let it dry for seven or eight days before using. 
Gladioli ( Floramica ).—You potted these last October in a mix¬ 
ture of equal parts of rotten turfy loam, leaf mould, and silver sand ; 
and you potted Ixias in the same compost. The leaves of all look 
greenish-yellow, and well they may. Your compost was only suitable 
for Gladioli, when planted in the open border, and is unfit for Ixias 
under any circumstances. You cannot cure the evil now ; and if the 
bulbs were well managed last year'they will flower well enough, but 
their condition next year will be bad. 
List of Roses (W. Stiles). —You send us a list of 120 roses 
which you have, and ask us to recommend you two dozen more. This 
we do willingly ; but we do beg of you, and of all our readers who send 
us lists of plants, to arrange them alphabetically; the labour is im¬ 
mense when a long list is sent “promiscuously,” and particularly 
when we are requested to add thereto. We recommend you to add 
to your collection the following -.—Hybrid c/ji'raa—Countesse deLaee- 
pede, Gloire d’Couline, General Kleber, Madame Plautier. Hybrid 
Provence— Duchesse d’ Orleans, Princess Clementine (the best white 
rose). French —General Joy, CEillit Parfait, Shakspeare. 
Oranges {Percy, A. R.). —A good compost for these is a fibry 
loamy soil, enriched with a little rotten manure, with top dressings of 
cow;, deer, or sheep dung, when the plants are growing. If well 
drained, the plants should not be shifted often; vigour is more pro- 
fitably given by rich surface dressings. When growing in sprino- and 
summer, the application of the syringe to the foliage will be useful. 
Hoya Carnosa (Ibid). —Have patience with this beautiful plant- 
it is none the worse for being a little shrivelled and drooping now’ 
Water the dry soil w'hen you can command a temperature of 50° but 
not until, by frequent syringing of the head, you have somewhat 
swelled out the stems and leaves. 
Giving Air (Ibid).— You may put your ventilator through the glass 
or board at the top of the house, as you propose. We would prefer 
having a sash, or part of a sash, made to open or slide ; or an opening 
made in the back wall, on the board to which the sashes are joined 
nine inches in width, cut into several openings, 5 inches wide and 
18 inches long, furnished wdth lids, and hinged so as by means of a 
rod and pulley to be opened and shut at pleasure. 
Greenhouse Management (A. H.). —You will see that Mr. Fish 
has done something to meet your case. 
Heating Greenhouse (C. P.).— If you will oblige us with a 
drawing and a description, with the result of your later experience 
we will gladly give it insertion, though before published. ’ 
Cheap Orchids (T. Lawson). —Orchids, on account of their slo 
propagation and expense of keeping, must always be comparative 
clear plants. We do not envy your friend his possession of 12 thi 
only cost 30s; we imagine they are either worthless or such sma 
tuts as will take years to bring to perfection, especially in a cool stoi 
amongst such things as gloxinias, achimeues, &c., that you mentioi 
[February 14. 
We will try to comply with your request by giving a list of 12 orchids 
we consider cheap, and that will grow in a cool stove; at the same 
time we must remark that we consider the list given at p. 169 of this 
volume (to which you refer) as being, for good healthy plants, a mo¬ 
derately priced one. Acropera Loddigesii, 5s; Aspasia epidendroides, 
5s; Barkeria Skinneri (small), 10 s fid; Bletia hyacinthina, 3 s 6 d; 
Calanthe veratrifolia (strong flowering plant), 10 s 6 d; Cattleya For- 
besii, 5s ; Cymbidium aloifolium, 5s ; Cypripedium insigne, 5 s ; Den- 
dr ohium pulchellum, 5s; Epidendrum fragrans, 3s 6 d; Lycaste 
Ilarrisonii, 5s; Oncidium papilio, 7 s 6 d. 
Fuchsias for Exhibition (Amicitia). —The following are two 
sets of fuchsias that will be good for exhibiting at a country show. 
The first are chiefly new, and the second are distinct sorts, that, if 
well grown, will obtain a prize at any exhibition. You may obtain them 
by writing to Mr. Appleby, Pine-apple-place Nursery, London: First 
set. —Beauty supreme, Is fid; Elegans, 3s 6 d; Elegantissima, 3 s 6 d ; 
Elizabeth, Is fid ; Gem of the West, 3s Gd; Marchioness Hastings, Is ; 
Scarletina reflexa, Is; Corallina, Is; Splendida, 2 s 6 d; Purity, Is; 
Sappliira, 2 s 6 d. Second set. —Exoniensis, Beauty of Leeds, Delicata, 
Dr. Smith, Napoleon, One-in-tlie-Ring, Adrienne, Rose Quintal, 
Serratifolia, Formosa elegans, Crimson King, Ne plus ultra. These 
are Is each, or 9 s the dozen. 
Carnations (M. N. O .).—The carnations mentioned by Mr. 
Appleby will grow, in a sheltered border, out of pots. They will do 
to plant out towards the end of March next. Order them soon, or 
you will have to take what plants are left unsold, if you wait till then. 
Begonia Fuciisioides (T. W.). —The strong shoots that spring 
from the bottom of the plants should be removed entirely, as soon as 
they appear, or they will rob the rest of their strength. Nip off the 
tops of the others, to make the plants grow bushy. 
Pine-apples (Ibid).— For summer fruit, as you wish to sell your 
surplus, grow the Ripley, and the Old Queen; for w'inter, the Black 
Jamaica, or Montserrat, as it is called in the north. These fruit early, 
and, consequently, pay best. Add a Cayenne or two; it is fine and 
good, but not so profitable. All the other kinds are not fit for your 
purpose. 
Failure in Forcing (A Young Beginner). —Your cucumber 
and melon leaves shrivel, and your plants never unfolded their blos¬ 
som, but the leaves became yellow. Deficiency of atmospheric 
moisture is one of the secrets of your ill success, if w'e can understand 
your plan aright. As usual, however, you have not stated all the 
necessary data ; you should have said what bottom-heat existed when 
you were in “ full work ; ” also whether you receive any atmospheric 
moisture from the tank-ehamber. As to command of heat, you 
should know that, from the position of your flue, in the front of your 
pit only, one half the heat will ascend at once to the roof and be thence 
radiated, instead of being compelled to traverse the body of the pit. 
We suspect you have too much bottom-heat; can you not put sliders 
in the front and back of the chamber to let heat with moisture escape 
at pleasure into the atmosphere ? You may also add dishes, or any¬ 
thing to hold plenty of water, on the top flue. By such means you 
may grow pines or anything else, only, do not burn their roots. 
Hazel-leaved Bramble (C. Robson).—' This is found wild in 
many parts of Great Britain, and requires no particular cultivation ; 
its branches, if pegged down into the soil, will root at every joint. 
Every rooted joint will form a plant; and these maybe moved into 
any soil or situation from October to the end of February. It is the 
Rubus corylifolius of botanists. 
Leaves as a Source of Heat (J. W. Flamark).—' The leaves you 
collected were decayed, and this is the reason they have not given you 
heat sufficient. To obtain heat from their fermentation or decaying, 
you must use them when freshly fallen, or preserve them dry until 
you require them. 
Ink for Zinc Labels (G. G.) —Powdered verdigris, 1 drachm; 
powdered sal ammoniac, 1 drachm ; lamp-black, £ a drachm ; water’, 
10 drachms. Mix these in a two-ounce phial, and shake it every time 
before using. It will be ready as soon as the verdigris and sal am¬ 
moniac are dissolved; and a clean quill pen must be used. Rub the 
label bright, but rough, with coarse sand-paper, before you attempt 
to write upon it. 
Bees (J. T. L.).— If you wish to have a swarm, remove the top 
hive at once. (J. V.). —The best time to purchase a stock is next 
month, for you are then pretty secure in obtaining a strong stock ; but 
you will have to pay more for it than if you wait until May, and buy 
then the first swarm that is purchaseable. You can get all, or any, of 
the back numbers of The Cottage Gardener through your book¬ 
seller, as we have had the early numbers reprinted. 
Pipes of Hot-water Boiler (E. Green.).— Have the flow- 
pipe inserted as near the top of the boiler as you can, and the return- 
pipe as near its bottom. 
Hyacinth Offsets (A. A. Clericus.). —Do not remove these 
fiom your potted hyacinths. If you wish to propagate from your 
dahlia tubers, you must move them into heat, and cut off and pot the 
shoots as they appear. You will see more on the subject, probably, 
shortly. 
London : Printed by Harry' Woolridge, Winchester High Street, 
in the Parish of St. Mary Kalendar; and Published by William 
Somerville Orr, at the Office, No. 2, Amen Corner, in the Parish 
of Christ Church, City of London,—February 14th, 1850, 
