THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
275 
February 21. j 
form. If tlie tree bo young, some close pruning may 
be necessary for a year or two, in order to induce 
sufficient shoots to complete the form of the tree, 
which, with most cultivators, is that of a bowl, or 
something after the manner of a well-blown tulip. 
With such trees it is necessary to keep the centre 
very thin, in order to permit sunlight to penetrate to 
the north side of the tree, without which the produce 
on that side will be inferior both in colour and 
flavour. In shortening young trees to cause them 
to furnish better wood, care should be taken to cut 
to one outside bud: this throws the terminal shoot, 
when developed, at a greater distance; and such 
buds generally shoot in a kind of curve, which is 
favourable to the completion of the form intended. 
In all cases of pruning rough espaliers, it is 
best to thin out first all unnecessary shoots; the 
shortening back is the last operation. In thin¬ 
ning out, all cross shoots should be removed from the 
planting period, for it is folly to suffer them to 
remain until they commence bearing, and then to 
cut them away. In trees of some size and strength 
a great deal of young watery-looking spray is apt to 
be produced from the older branches; this should be 
pruned away, for it is in vain to expect to produce 
fruit spurs of any value in the interior of the tree by 
a “ spurring back ” system ; and, indeed, if such 
should be the case (although the produce might 
answer for boiling or baking purposes, yet it would 
not answer for the dessert), such trees should receive 
a little root-pruning immediately on the heels of this 
close-pruning. The production of so much side 
spray proves that there is a too powerful action of 
root for the extent of top. Such over-excited sub¬ 
jects may frequently be found in kitchen-gardens 
where high vegetable culture is carried on. The oft 
repeated and heavy manurings necessary for aspara¬ 
gus, celery, cauliflowers, &c., are rather too much for 
trees under a close-pruning system. It is rather 
difficult to state how far distant the reserved shoots 
should be; on an average, we should say, the main 
leaders of dessert apples should bo about eight inches 
apart; kitchen apples may be somewhat closer. In 
determining distances, however, the size of the leaf 
and general habit of the tree should be taken into 
consideration. Nobody would think of carrying the 
leaders of a Ribston pippin at the same distance as 
the Old Nonpareil: the first has a capacious leaf, 
and is of a sprawling habit; the other grows nearly 
upright, and has a lanceolate leaf little larger than 
a willow. 
As to shortening, this must depend on several cir¬ 
cumstances ; some based on principles, others on 
convenience or expediency. As an instance of the 
former, we would point to the propriety of a regular 
annual shortening—rather severe in amount—during 
the first three years of the planting. If this course 
be not pursued, the consequence is, in the majority 
of cases, that one or two branches soon assume the 
character of leaders, and, in technical phraseology, 
“ run away with the tree.” But by early shortening 
a host of spurs are developed at a low level—a point 
of much importance in a dwarfing system ; added to 
which, this “ knifing” has a tendency, if judiciously 
exercised, to equalize the strength, not, however, in 
an equal degree to summer-stopping; this is the 
most powerful agent in equalizing strength, as wo 
shall shew by and by. As an instance of shorten¬ 
ing for convenience or expediency, it may be stated, 
that it is not eligible in shortening to shorten two or 
more shoots side by side, exactly at the same height. 
In so doing, the terminal buds shoot near together, j 
and produce too severe an amount of shade; whereas, 
by taking care in shortening that the points of those 
contiguous to each other are of different heights, the 
foliage all through the tree is more equally divided. 
Where the ordinary espalier is made to assume the 
punch-bowl figure, the points after shortening should 
rise in grades from the exterior, each successively 
higher than the one outside it. 
Trained Espaliers. —These stand next in order; 
and, as the pruning season hastens to a close, we 
must say a few words about them. The shortening 
described as necessary with the rough espalier, in 
order to develope spurs, or the rudiments of spurs, is 
equally necessary here during the first three or four 
years. Afterwards, we advise the tying-down system. 
Espaliers are trained in different ways; some per- 
j pendicularly, others on horizontal or table trellises, 
i Some, also, in saddle form, as at her majesty’s gar¬ 
dens at Frogmore. Whichever plan is adojited, the 
same principles must be attended to as with the 
rough espalier, or dwarf standard, modified occasion¬ 
ally by the end in view, viz., to clothe equally all 
parts of the trellis, and to cause the side buds to 
develope in an equal way. 
Be it understood, however, that we do not place 
our main reliance on these side developments after 
the fourth year. We would, as before observed, re¬ 
serve annually all the best of the short jointed and 
early ripened young shoots, and tie them down along¬ 
side the main branches, cutting them away again if 
they should in future years assume a barren appear¬ 
ance. Much care is necessary during the first three 
years of the trained espalier; to furnish the trellis 
in an equal way, a sharp look-out must be kept in 
order to coax the shoots into the desired places. If 
the trees continue rather spare, and do not furnish 
well, atop dressing, and even liquid manure may be 
resorted to, during the growing season, and the knife 
applied in order to force a more liberal development 
of shoots. 
Wall, or Fence Trees. —We find that our space 
will narrowly permit us to offer a few general remarks. 
In pruning Peaches and Nectarines, much depends 
on the care bestowed on them at the previous sum¬ 
mer’s disbudding. Where trees are attended to as they 
ought to be in summer, which is not the case in 
one garden out of twenty, there will be little 
work for the knife at the winter’s pruning. Some 
thinning out, nevertheless, will be necessary; and 
in shortening back the young wood, the only 
true guide is the maturity of the wood. Mature 
shoots arc higher coloured and shorter jointed; the 
buds, moreover, are much fuller. Let as much of 
the points be shortened as will remove that portion 
which appears unripe; such is readily distinguished, 
and in general constitutes about one-fourth of the 
shoot. Apricots merely require the foreright snags 
to be cut back to spur eyes; little thinning is 
necessary, and little shortening of the leaders. Any 
likely-looking young shoots may be tied down 
on the branches, as advised for pears. Plums 
on walls or fences require very similar management, 
in regard of pruning, to the apricot. To cut away 
foreriglit snags, to thin out where crowded, and to tie 
down us eful spray, is all that cau be done. Shorten¬ 
ing is entirely dispensed with on principle, with 
those in a bearing state. Young trees, however, re¬ 
quire as much shortening as will enable them to fill 
the space allotted to them. Cherries require, per¬ 
haps, less knife-work than most other fruits. After 
producing shoots enough to fill the wall or fence, 
little is needed, especially with the larger kinds. The 
