280 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[February 21. 
ting, and will soon form separate lino plants. We 
intend soon to write on the propagation of orchids 
in a separate chapter; but as these three species of 
Coelogyne are so different in their mode of increase to 
any other, we have described that mode here in order 
that the cultivator may now, as this is tire time for 
potting them, divide or separate his small bulbs off 
at the same time. These plants do not require large 
pots. Such as are strong may he put into pots five 
inches in diameter, and the smaller bulbs in pots pro¬ 
portioned to their size. We have had the bulbs 
sometimes as small as garden peas, and to save room, 
have put such three or four together into one pot for 
one year; potting them separately into middling-sized 
pots (that is in pots three inches in diameter) the sea¬ 
son following. Attention to these apparently trivial 
points of culture denotes a mind determined to suc¬ 
ceed, and we cannot help pressing upon orchid 
growers to attend closely and constantly upon these, 
as it were, the turning points of culture. A general 
way of potting, a general mode of watering, using 
only one material, giving one equal temperature, and 
ventilating all a little, will not answer. If it would, 
orchid-growing would, indeed, be as easy as growing 
a flat of cabbages ; but these plants—coming as they 
do from various parts of the world, and inhabiting 
different localities—require, when gathered together 
into one house, or at most two houses, a variety of 
situations and treatment. 
There are yet several species on which we shall 
have to observe, as they require a different mode of 
treatment to the general one. 
FLORISTS’ FLOWERS. 
Dahlia Propagating. —Some of our florist friends, 
eager to increase their stock of choice dahlias, will, by 
this time, have set them to work—that is, to grow. 
We do not recommend starting them so early. “ More 
haste less speed,” is a proverb equally applicable to 
dahlia growing as to any other pursuit in life. We 
conceive that now is quite early enough to start these 
gorgeous autumnal flowers. The best place to start 
them in is a pit, or frame, heated either with dung- 
litter, well mellowed by turning it over frequently 
previously, and putting it then into the pit when the 
fierce heat is moderated; or the pit may be filled 
with tanners’ spent bark, and the roots laid upon it. 
Upon the dung lay a covering of ashes, or sand, 
previously to putting in the roots. In this warm, 
moist heat the roots will soon send forth shoots and 
new roots. As soon as the shoots are three or four 
inches long take them off, and put them into small 
pots half filled with earth, and then filled up with 
fine white sand. Give them some water to settle the 
sand; the cuttings then may be put in, and will 
soon take root. 
The great art in the management of dahlia cuttings 
after they are struck, is to give them just such a 
quantity of air as will enable them to make dwarf 
stout plants, without actually starving. Dahlia cut¬ 
tings should never be allowed to stop so long in the 
pots as to fill them with roots in a dense mass. It is 
the greatest absurdity to expect plants that have been 
cramped in their early youth to make strong healthy 
fellows afterwards. 13y no means, then, nurse your 
young dahlias too much. This observation applies 
to those that are growing now, or have been growing 
for some time, as well as to those that are yet to be 
propagated. Continue to secure them from frost, and 
no more: too much heat or stimulus, at this early 
period, is very injurious.—T. Appleby. 
THE KITCHEN-GxkKDEN. 
Asparagus. —The last planting for forcing may 
now bo placed on a slight hotbed, and be hooped 
and matted, or covered over with some kind of light 
protection. The beds now in full cut may be bene¬ 
ficially assisted by liberal soakings of tepid liquid- 
manure water, and a small portion of salt dissolved 
in it. Air should be liberally given by day, to pro¬ 
duce the shoots strong, and of a good colour, and the 
frames should he shut up early of an afternoon. 
Asparagus Culture in the Open Ground. —Old 
beds, if not already manured, should he attended to 
without delay ; and the manure be forked carefully in. 
Sea-weed is an excellent article for top-dressing, 
when attainable for this purpose. The ground in¬ 
tended for a new plantation, should be well manured 
and trenched, continually forking and stirring the 
earth on all suitable occasions. The seed of aspara¬ 
gus may also now be sown on well prepared and 
pulverized soil, one foot apart. It should he sown 
thinly in drills, in order to obtain good sturdy plants 
for the next season’s plantiug. 
Borecole, &c. —Choose for seed, plants of the best 
curled and short-jointed sorts; never select those 
that are coarse, long-legged, or long-jointed. Sow at 
once the first sowing of seed for obtaining early 
plants on a well pulverized spot of soil, as well as a 
small sowing of the dwarf curled savoys and Kohl-Rabi. 
Routine Work. —Clear the late celery of decayed 
leaves and rubbish, and apply its final earthing. 
Sow a little seed in pans, or on a slight hotbed, for 
early spring use. Sow also chervil, corn salad, Ame¬ 
rican cress, the common cress, and mustard. Finish 
bleaching the last crop of endive, and well attend to 
the early lettuce plants; keeping them clear of dead 
leaves and other rubbish. Keep the earth’s surface 
well stirred, and have dry dust applied about their 
stems to prevent their cankering. Sow leeks and a 
small sowing of onions for early use ; covering them 
with a little mulch, or some slight protection, until 
they are up. An early variety of turnip should be 
also now sown on a slight hotbed in drills. 
Sea-kale. —New plantations should now be made 
on well-prepared soil; and some salt, of which the 
sea-kale is particularly fond, should be applied. 
Supposing the sea-kale ground to have been well 
trenched and ridged, and the ridges to have been 
forked over several times, it must, as a matter of course 
at this season, be in a very well pulverized and healthy 
condition. The salt may be sown over the surface 
of the soil broadcast, pretty liberally, with great ad¬ 
vantage, previously to its being forked down level for 
planting, in order to get the salt well incorporated 
with the soil. We apply it at the rate of about four 
pounds to the rod, pole, or land-yard; and in the 
course of the summer season, we apply liquid-manure 
pretty liberally, with salt always added to it. 
We plant our rows of sea-kale three feet apart, 
and the plants singly two feet apart in the rows, so 
that in one summer’s growth, with the foregoing 
management, we find the plants get very strong, and 
fit for producing fine healthy heads of blanched kale 
throughout the succeeding winter, either taken up 
or forced on the ground. Sea-kale, which has not 
been already covered for this season’s production, 
should at once be attended to, or the shoots will be 
produced of a blue colour, and a bitter taste. Charred 
saw-dust, old tan, leaf-mould, light soil, or fine cinder- 
ashes, are all very suitable for blanching it at this 
season, without the addition of fermenting materials. 
Salt as Manure. —Slight applications of salt, that 
