304 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER 
when the seedlings are three inches long, harden them off to stand in 
a cold pit. If your seeds are true, you have a treasure. 
Camellia Buds Falling (Ibid). —Your large camellias were not 
half watered while they stood in the passage in your house, and the 
air of such a place wiil never grow camellias to bloom well. They 
should never get very dry at the roots. 
Small Pit (A. —You ought to be able to get inside your nice 
pit in bad weather from either end. A passage through the middle, 
18 inches wide, would be sufficient; and to get head room, you might 
sink this passage. Then you would have a back shelf, as you propose, 
up to the chimney, and one along the whole front; and if you were 
hard up for room, the passage might be covered with a moveable 
stage or shelf, but we should prefer it without this. 
Melitot Clovers. —We have had some seed of these sent to us ; 
and, finding that they have been cultivated by a friend, it will be use¬ 
ful to publish his experience. He says : “ I experimented, for several 
years, with several Melitots, but have not found them sufficiently 
profitable, or convenient, to induce me to pursue their culture. In 
the'first place, do not let your cows get at them, for they impart an 
abominable taste to milk and butter. They are biennials ; very pro¬ 
ductive, but very difficult to manage. One— Trifolium melilotus 
sibericum, which I received under the name, I think, of Candahar 
clover —in rich and trenched soil, grew fourteen feet high ; but, in 
that state, the base of the stalk was as big as my two thumbs, and so 
ligneous, that it could not be cut with a common scythe. You would 
require a short, strong scythe, such as the Welchmen cut furze with. 
If you had a furze-cutting machine, wherewith to reduce it into frag¬ 
ments of an inch in length, it might make fodder for elephants, 
hippopotami, or giraffes ! or any animal that crunches the branches 
of trees. Perhaps a horse might pick a little of it; but it would be 
too woody for him to eat it all in its adult state ; nor does the horse 
much like it. I saved between one and two acres for sheep-feed, and 
put in the sheep as soon as the flowers appeared, before it had at¬ 
tained half its stature. The sheep ate of the leaves and buds, and the 
top part of the stalks, but left a great part of the stalks standing. It, 
therefore, seems difficult to appropriate its vast produce in any eat¬ 
able and profitable form. It will appear, from what I have said, that 
it would be an unsuitable crop for hay. A neighbour of mine, who 
saved a crop for sheep, said that he could not get his sheep to eat it 
at all. Mine did eat what was tender. Whether, if it were depas¬ 
tured continually from its first springing, it would answer better, I 
cannot say—perhaps it might; but I have not tried. I also tried the 
Bullock Melitot of America ; but its character was nearly the same, 
though it was not quite so gigantic as the other. If these continued 
succulent up to the time of their attaining their full growth, I think 
they might be rendered valuable ; but their rigidity presents difficul¬ 
ties, which I shall be glad to see some ingenious adapter overcome. I 
should add, that my Asiatic species was white-flowered, and my 
American yellow-flowered ; and it is possible, that these two species 
which you have sent, may present some difference of growth or habit, 
which may render them more available ; but, from having also culti¬ 
vated the Melilotus macrorhixu of Hungary, and Melilotus officinu- 
lis of Britain, and Melilotus ceeruleus ; 1 find their habits so much 
alike, that I should not be sanguine in my hope of their utility. The 
produce of seed is enormous from all of them, so that the experiment 
may be easily tried. 
CALENDAR FOR MARCH. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
Annuals (Tender), such as the Fortulacas, Mesembryanthemums, 
Lobellias, &c., sow b. ; (Hardy), sow on dry borders, b. and e. 
Biennials, sow, e. Dahlias, sow, and force old roots for stock, 
b. Dress every part within the boundary as early as you can. 
Edgings of all sorts finish off as early as possible. Finish all the 
Planting and Spring Pruning of trees and shrubs, and all neces¬ 
sary alterations as soon as the weather will permit. Grass and 
Clover Seed sow with a liberal hand over patchy grass: keep the 
grass in clean, trim order, and roll it three times this month, and 
oftener if you can. Gravel, clean, roll, and relay. Hand Glasses, 
the best of all aids to rear half-hardy, and such other annuals as come 
up weakly at first, place them on a warm sheltered aspect. Hoeing : 
never hoe a border in March, for fear of killing something which you 
cannot yet see. Hotbeds are only good helps to those who can well 
manage them for the flower-garden; keep them up to 70 °, and steadv. 
Hyacinths and other Bulbs ; as soon as they appear, stir the beiis 
and lighten the soil round the plants ; and plant spring Gladioli at 
once. Perennials, with the exception of long fleshy rooted ones, 
ought to be removed—divided, if necessary—and receive some fresh 
soil, or be planted in new situations at least every' third season ; see 
to this rule, and treat one-third of each family, every February or 
March, according to it. Protection is necessary for almost all 
young things of a tender nature, this month. Rakes : lock them 
up, b.; if your man cannot dress a border without a rake, pity him. 
Roses finish pruning, b., except, perhaps, a few strong ones be left 
unpruned till April, to bloom later; but this plan is radically bad, 
and not necessary now with our perpetuals. Stakes : see if you 
have a stock on hand for your dahlias, hollyhocks, and all other 
plants requiring them next summer, and see that all the old ties and 
rotten stakes are out of the rosary. Sweet Briar, sown in a single 
row, will grow and make a hedge in such poor soil, as would kill 
other roses. Turf, lay. Water the foliage only of late planted 
evergreens; root watering is often more injurious than we think this 
month. - D. Beaton. 
GREENHOUSE. 
Air admit in fine weather, when the outside temperature is above 
35°; a shut house is better than cold currents and night fires. Bulbs 
and Tuberous roots introduce, and water more freely; start the 
various kinds of Acliimenes, Gesnera, and Gloxinia, in hotbed. Cal¬ 
ceolarias and Cinerarias water more freely', shade in sunny wea- 
[February 2B. 
tlier, shift for succession. Camellias and Azaleas water more plen¬ 
tifully when in bloom. Diosma, Epacris, Heaths, give abun¬ 
dance of air when growing and flowering; Prune freely when done 
flowering, and keep close until they begin to grow, when the roots 
had better be examined. Hotbeds prepare for sowing Primula 
seeds, and any other desirable greenhouse plants, raising cuttings, 
sowing seeds, or striking cuttings of the commoner sorts for stocks, 
on which to inarch or graft Correas, Oranges, Camellias, &c. Insects 
destroy. Leaves and Stems clean. Lillies, Japan: after the 
stems appear, place in a light, airy situation. Mignonette and 
tender annuals sow in slight hotbed, to be afterwards hardened off. 
Soil prepare, turn, and expose for a general shifting about the end 
of the month. Train large plants of Pelargoniums, intended for 
early flowering; Stop those for late summer and autumn. Tie 
climbers to rafters ; train those daily on trellises ; and, as the season 
is now getting on, let neatness, order, and cleanliness, everywhere 
prevail. " - R. Fish. 
FRUIT GARDEN. 
Apricots, prune, if before neglected, b. ; young ones, head down. 
Apples, dress for blight. Blossoms of wall-fruit, protect. Cur¬ 
rants, finish planting and pruning, b. Espaliers, generally finish 
regulating, b. Figs, plant; make layers ; plant cuttings. Fork- 
over the borders and quarters, if before omitted. Gooseberries, 
prune, if before neglected, b.; finish planting, b. Grafting, in 
mild weather, is best done this month. Scions, prepare. Hoeing 
cannot be done too often. Mulch round the trees newly'-planted, 
to keep the roots moist. Medlars, Mulberries and Nec¬ 
tarines, neglected before, prune, b.; young, head down. Pears, 
carefully prune and train. Planting,’ omitted, complete, b. (See 
Feb.) Pruning, in general, complete, without fail, b. Rasp¬ 
berries, finish planting, b. Strawberries, finish dressing, b.; 
plant. Standard Orchard-trees, finish pruning, b. Suckers, 
for stocks, may be planted (See Feb.). Support, with stakes, trees 
newly-planted. Stocks, raise from seeds of apples, pears, quinces, 
and medlars. Trench, See., ground for planting. Vines, finish 
pruning without fail, b.; plant cuttings, and make layers. Wal¬ 
nuts, p. 
In Grafting, commence with plums and cherries; but seion3 on the 
latter, if inserted on large trees, seldom succeed. Loose branches 
and last year’s shoots of pears and other fruit-trees, trained as pyra- 
mi dais, fasten in their proper positions. R. Errington. 
FORCING DEPARTMENT. 
Air, admit freely. Aphides, destroy in all forcing structures by 
fumigation. Asparagus, provide succession. Cherries ripening 
require but little water. Capsicums, sow, b. Forward Cucumbers, 
to replace those which fruited in winter. Plants to flower in 
pots, continue to introduce. Kidney Beans, provide successions. 
Leaves, clean by the sponge and syringe. Mushroom bed for 
spring, make. Pines require more water and greater heat ; syringe 
their crowns ; give liquid manure ; shift into larger pots. Peaches, 
thin ; the day temperature for them should not exceed 70 ° ; disbud ; 
trim ; W'ater abundantly. Propagate hothouse plants by slips, 
cuttings, suckers, and layers, according to the plant’s nature ; it is 
the best season. Seedlings of culinary plants, remove to a cooler 
place. Strawberries in pots, continue forcing. Temperature 
for pines should be about 85° at midday, and during night 6o°; in 
the flower stove 05° and 55°. Sulphur, apply on flues and pipes to 
destroy red spider. Tobacco fumigations continue. Tomatoes, 
sow, b. Vines are now all in motion; thin; train; keep well 
supplied with liquid manure ; air, keep moist, except to those in 
blossom ; but be cautious, or the mildew may visit you; temp, as 
last month. Melons, provide succession. R. Errington. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Angelica, sow orplant. Artichokes, dress; plant. Asparagus, 
sow; plant; force; and dress beds. Balm, plant. Basil, sow. 
Beans, plant; earth up. Beet (red, white, and green), sow. Borage, 
sow. Borecole, sow, e. Brocoli, sow; mark for seed. Burnet, 
plant and sow. Cabbages, plant; earth up; sow. Capsicum, sow, 
e. Cardoons, sow, e. Carraway, sow. Carrots, sow, e.; main 
crop. Cauliflowers, plant from frames; give air to those under 
glass; prick out spring-raised; sow, b. Celeriac, sow. Celery, 
sow; dress and earth up. Chamomile, plant. Chervil, sow. 
Chives, plant. Clary, sow. Cress (American), sow. Composts, 
prepare. Coriander, sow, e. Corn Salad, sow. Cucumbers, 
sow; prick out; plant; impregnate those under glass, &c. Dill, 
sow. Fennel, sow or plant. Garlick, plant. Hoe generally in 
dry weather. Horse-radish, plant. Hyssop, sow,e. Jerusalem 
Artichokes, plant. Kale (Sea), plant or sow; force. Kidney 
Beans, sow, e.; in slight hotbed, to be protected; attend to those 
forcing. Leeks, sow. Lettuces, sow; prick out, and plant out 
from frames. Liquid Manure, give to Cabbages, &e. Marigolds, 
sow. Marjoram, sow and plant. Melons, sow, for succession, or 
strike cuttings. Mint, plant; clean beds. Mushroom Beds, attend 
to; make. Mustard and Cress, sow. Nasturtiums, sow. Onions, 
sow main crop; transplant autumn-raised; plant for seed, b.; (Potato 
and Tree), plant. Orach, sow. Parsley (Com. and Hamb.), sow. 
Parsnips, sow, e.; main crop. Peas, sow; earth up; stick, flic. 
Pompions and Purslane, sow, e. Pennyroyal, plant. Radishes, 
sow; thin. Rampion, sow. Rape (com. and edible-rooted), sow, e. 
Rhubarb, sow, b. ; plant, b. Rocambole, Rosemary and Rue, 
plant. Sage and Shai.ots, plant. Sai.safy and Scorzonera, sow. 
Savoys, sow; lay in for sprouts. Sea-Kale, sow in patches, in a 
prepared bed. Skirrets and Succory, sow. Sorrels, plant and 
sow. Spinach, sow ; weed, See. Tansy and Tarragon, plant. 
Tetragonia and Thyme, sow, e. Tomatos, sow, e Trunips, sow, 
b. e.; or once a fortnight. 
London : Printed by Harry Woolridge, Winchester High Street, 
in the Parish of St. Mary Kalendar; and Published by William 
Somerville Orr, at the Office, No. 2, Amen Corner, in the Parish 
of Christ Church, City of London.— February, 28, 1850. 
