March 7.] THE COTTAGE 
and these terrestrial orchids requiring it, they are 
proportionably benefited thereby. Indeed, most 
orchids when in bloom would last much longer in 
flower if they were removed into the cool stove whilst 
in that state. Barkerias, Cattleyas, Lcelias, Den- 
drobiums, some Epidendrums, and other Mexican 
species, will bear this treatment, but we would not 
advise the removal from the orchid-liouse of such 
species as come from the hot jungles of Java, Borneo, 
a, M Hiudostan,—such, for instance, as all the species 
of rE rides, Saccolabium, and Vanda. These, having 
no pseudo-bulbs, and producing frequently fleshy 
roots in the moist air of the oichid-house, would 
suffer much by the change from a moist atmosphere 
to a comparatively dry one; we must, therefore, be 
content to bloom them in their own house. 
FLORISTS’ FLOWERS. 
Carnations and Picotees. —The time has come to 
put these flowers into their blooming pots. We are 
now busy potting our winter stores—that is, removing 
them out of the pots they have been in through 
winter into the blooming pots, 12 inches wide at the 
top, and 10 inches deep. At page 119 of vol. I., every 
particular about jiotting, soil, pots, &c., is given ; and 
to that place we refer our readers. For the benefit 
of such as may not possess the first volume, we will as 
briefly as possible give the substance of the directions. 
The soil we prefer—is loam, made of turf from an 
old pasture, three-parts; very rotten dung, one-part; 
rotten leaves, one-part; one-sixteenth soot, and one- 
sixteenth river sand. Mix and turn over once a 
month for a year before using. If old pots are-used, 
clean them well in hot water; drain effectually, and 
pot firmly, rather deeper than the old surface. Place 
them under shelter of some kind for a month longer, 
previously to putting them on the blooming stage, 
which is described on the 110th page of the first 
volume of The Cottage Gardener. 
I he Old Clove Carnation. —Though this is not 
strictly a florist’s flower, yet on account of its beauty 
and agreeable fragrance there arc few florists that 
do not grow a few pairs of it—at least, they did for¬ 
merly ; but in the rage for novelty it often happens 
that an old deserving flower is thought but little of, 
and is neglected. This is the case with the clove 
carnation. This variety, in its true state, is a good 
formed flower, of a dark crimson colour, with a rose 
edge, by which is meant an edge without serratums 
or teeth ; the petals should have the outermost edge 
perfectly smooth and flat. Now this good old variety 
is nearly lost. We shall refer to this subject again 
shortly. T. Appleuy. 
THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. 
Routine Work. —A busy and interesting season 
has now arrived, when both energy and perseverance 
are required with regard to cropping, cleanliness, 
and the establishment of good order, as well as some 
degree of forethought, as to what crops are to suc¬ 
ceed one another on each spot of ground. Previously 
to sowing and planting at this season, encourage the 
growth of the early ccd>bage by frequent surface-stir¬ 
rings, and the application of liquid-manure; the 
earliest crop will be taken off in time for the second 
planting of kidney beans. Let the cabbage-seed sown 
be of the best kinds, such as Atkins Matchless, Non¬ 
pareil, Shilling's Queen, the Early York, and all such 
moderate-sized growing kinds which are quick in 
coming in, and produce a nice compact head, with 
GARDENER. 311 
but few outside leaves. Expel all starters from the 
main crop as soon as discovered, and make out such, 
vacancies with good strong plants. Plant the winter 
saved plants of the Red Dutch, and sow a little more 
seed also for the pigs and cattle, or even for the next 
autumn and winter for culinary use. The drum-head 
(also termed, flat pole by some) or cattle cabbage is a 
good variety for this purpose. Plant out also the 
winter stored plants. 
Cauliflowers. —Sow little and often; plant out 
in succession from the winter store plants, and en¬ 
courage those now growing under hand-glasses with 
applications of tepid liquid-manure after the surface 
of the earth has been well stirred, taking care as the 
plants grow on, to earth up and raise the hand-lights, 
so as to afford room enough for the leaves to grow 
without becoming crippled. A small sowing of Gape 
brocoli and celery should also be made, as well as 
celetiac. Sow also spinach —little and often, under¬ 
ground onions, and the store bulbs of the two-bladed 
onion. Those transplanted from the autumn-sown 
beds should be looked to, as well as shallots and 
garlic ; observe whether any have been removed by 
worms or frost, and if so replace them, giving, at 
the same time, the whole surface a good stirring 
between them. Take care that the ground for spring- 
sown crops of onions, carrots, and parsnips is now 
speedily got into good condition, and let the onions 
and parsnips be sown in good order in full crops 
before the 21st of March. Early Carrots should be 
sown now, but the full crop of large-growing late 
kinds are best deferred until the last week of the 
month, or the beginning of April. Everything in 
the shape of refuse lying about should at once be 
charred for drilling in with the seeds. Our practice 
always is to drill everything, as we consider it of 
great consequence as far as regards the after-manage¬ 
ment, the thinning, surface-stirring, &c., all which is 
afterwards performed with much greater expedition 
and economy. Plant out in succession the winter 
stored lettuce, and prick the early spring sown, as 
soon as they can be handled, on a little warmth, or 
in a well protected situation. Globe artichokes 
should have their winter’s protection removed, the 
small, weakly suckers at once taken away, which 
will encourage those intended for producing the 
season’s crop, as well as those intended to be used 
for making new plantations next month. Sow pars¬ 
ley in full crop, angelica, salsafy, scorzonera, radishes, 
leeks, and rampions. Look to the herb bed. Sow 
chervil, replant chives, pot-marjoram. Plant out la¬ 
vender, and put in fresh cuttings. Top-dress the 
mint bed, and make fresh plantations as soon as the 
shoots are two or three inches in length. Tarragon 
requires the same treatment. Sow thyme and winter 
savoys. Plant out Lemon thyme, chamomile, fennel, 
and hyssop. Layer and peg down the last year’s 
wood made by sage, and make new beds from the last 
year’s layered plants. 
Framing Cucumbers. —Maintain a brisk kind of 
heat; air freely in the fore part of the day; and shut 
up early, sprinkling down the interior of the struc¬ 
ture with tepid water, sometimes mixing a little \ 
manure-water with it, just to charge the atmosphere 
with ammonia. Stop or pinch out the points in due 
season of all young shoots which may show fruit at 
every joint; all young plants stop at the first joint; 
then allow them to make three joints previously to 
stopping again; on their next breaking they will 
most likely show fruit. Sow in succession, so as to 
keep up a sufficient stock of young plants as may be 
required. 
