March 28,] 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
357 
turned about the 82nd part of an inch one way or 
the other, the effect upon the draught is perceptible 
immediately. C. P. 
CULTURE OF CAMELLIAS. 
These beautiful hardy greenhouse plants are the 
greatest ornament of the conservatory during the 
months of April and May; with flowers as handsome 
and as various in colours as the rose, they have the 
advantage over that justly esteemed flower in pos¬ 
sessing a splendid foliage, handsome and glossy at 
all times of the year. We have given a pretty con¬ 
siderable list of the best kinds, many of which will 
he new to the generality of our readers. The varie¬ 
gated ones are more numerous than the self-coloured, 
hut are selected as being distinct and good shaped 
flowers. We cannot let this list pass from our hands 
without giving what we conceive to he the essential 
points of good culture of these universally esteemed 
flowers. 
House to grow them in. —Like all large families 
of plants, the Camellia does best in a house to 
itself. The reason is, because at the season when 
they make their annual growth, and form their flower- 
buds for the succeeding year, they require a higher 
temperature, and a greater amount of atmospheric 
moisture and shade, than any other greenhouse 
plants, with, perhaps, the single exception of the 
citrus (orange) tribe. As these two families require 
a similar treatment in that respect, they may he 
grown together in the same house with great pro¬ 
priety and benefit. 
Compost. —The compost we have found them to 
grow and flower best in, is light fibrous loam, of a 
brown colour; such as may he obtained from a pas¬ 
ture on the hanks of a river, or even from the sides 
of hills or uplands, where the soil is clear of stones 
or clay. The top spit, four or five inches thick, is 
the best. Take the grassy turf along with it, and 
lay it up for twelve months previously to using, chop¬ 
ping and turning it over frequently. The other 
article is sandy peat, taken from a moor, where the 
common heath thrives vigorously. This requires 
breaking up in a similar manner to the loam, hut 
not for so long a time. These two soils mixed toge¬ 
ther, in equal parts, and the rougher lumps picked 
out (not sifted), will grow the camellias satisfactorily. 
If the soils appear to he poor, an eighth part of' leaf- 
mould, or very rotten dung, may he added; and also, 
if not of a sandy nature, add as much river sand as 
will make it so. 
Drainage.— -The camellia has a soft white fleshy 
root when in its young state, and if the pots are not 
well drained, these roots in autumn and winter will 
he apt to canker and perish. No plants suffer more 
from badly drained pots than these, therefore it is of 
the greatest importance to drain effectually. Broken 
garden pots make the best drainage; place a large 
piece over the hole at the bottom of the pot, propped 
up by another piece, to allow the superfluous water 
readily to escape ; over that place some smaller ones, 
and over the last a covering of pieces no larger than 
garden peas, with the small dust silted out. Upon 
this drainage put either a thin layer of moss or some 
of the rough pieces of fibrous loam and peat picked 
out at the turning times. Tlieso may he lesser or 
larger according to the size of the plants. 
Potting. —The best season for potting is the month 
of August. We are aware there is a difference of 
opinion amongst cultivators as to the best time for 
this important operation, some preferring the spring 
just after the plants have bloomed- We will just 
reason a little upon this point. The camellia is an 
evergreen, and requires the greatest amount of sup¬ 
port and food at the time it makes its shoots and 
forms its flower-buds. Now, if it is potted in spring 
just before it begins to grow, the operation of potting 
disarranges the roots that may he alive, and disar¬ 
ranges also the soil; so that before these two agents 
(the mouths and the food) can act, the plant is grow¬ 
ing upon and exhausting the small store of food re¬ 
served in itself; consequently, it cannot thrive so 
much as it would have done if the roots and soil had 
been in a state to assist the growth. On the other 
hand, if the potting had been performed as we say in 
August, the roots would be growing, increasing, and 
gathering up a store of food that would cause the 
plant to start into growth in perfect health and 
vigour in the spring. All good gardeners remove 
hardy evergreens in the autumn of the year, and for 
the same reason that they may put forth new roots 
directly, and he ready to sustain the growth of the 
following year. We might lengthen out these re¬ 
marks much, hut we think we have said enough to 
prove our case that autumn is the best season for 
potting camellias, as well as for removing hollies, 
aucubas, and other evergreens. 
Watering. —The greatest quantity of water is re¬ 
quired whilst the plants are growing. They can 
then hardly have too much if the drainage is all 
right. After they have formed their buds, and up 
to the growing time again, just keep the soil moist 
and no more. Take care, however, that the inside of 
the hail is wet, as well as the top. Large pots will 
require occasional examination ; stir the surface sui- 
ficiently deep to see that the interior is moist. If 
dry, thrust a pointed stick here and there into the 
soil, leaving the holes open; then give a good water¬ 
ing that will sink through and thoroughly moisten 
the whole. At the time of growing, throw abundance 
of water down upon the paths, borders, and against 
the walls, to create a moist atmosphere. 
Heat. —These plants are very hardy ; so much so 
that in the south they will live through our ordinary 
winters in the open air; hut seldom flower well, be¬ 
cause our late spring frosts nip the bloom in the 
bud. In the greenhouse, if the frost is just kept out, 
the heat will be sufficient. Give as much air as pos¬ 
sible on all favourable occasions. The time when a 
little heat and less air will be desirable, is just after 
the bloom is over till the buds are formed. This 
happens at a season (May and June) when the 
natural heat out of doors is so much increased, that 
very little artificial heat will be necessary. 
Turning out. —As soon as the buds are fairly 
formed, the plants may be set out of doors in a place 
sheltered from the noonday sun and west winds. 
Place them upon a thick stratum of rough coal-ashes, 
to prevent worms getting into the pots. Syringe 
them here of an evening after a hot sunny day, and 
give a moderate supply of water. Here they may 
remain, till the cool nights warn us of the approach 
of frost, when the pots may be cleaned, the surface 
stirred, and all made neat and tidy. Then put them 
into the house, and if all be well you will have a 
prospect of abundance of bloom for the next year. 
T. Apple uv. q 
EXTRACTS FROM CORRESPONDENCE. 
Gooseberry Caterpillars, to Destroy. —I send 
yon a receipt for cleaning gooseberry bushes from 
caterpillars, which I have used with success for more 
than 40 years. 
