12 THE COTTAGE GARDENER. October C. 
to meet each ones case it becomes necessary to introduce it 
here. And as the culture in the frame embraces almost 
every point to be regarded when grown in the house, the 
same will answer for one and all. 
We will, then, suppose that a sufficient quantity of heating 
materials are at hand, and that it is fresh from the stable, 
which, if so, will require to be turned over several times, to 
sweeten, or force off that foul steam so injurious to vege¬ 
tation ; and if a good quantity of oak leaves can be got to 
mix with it, or when it is finally made up into the bed, they 
will help materially to effect the purpose, as well as to pro¬ 
duce a more gentle, uniform, lasting heat, which is a very 
important point in the culture of this plant, and one, which, 
if disregarded, will most probably cause a failure. This 
point considered, the bed may be made up, five feet high 
at the back, and four at the front, mixing well the material 
as you proceed, and when finished, place the frames thereon, 
and let them remain till the heat arises, when it will soon 
be known if any foulness still remain, which, if there be, 
push down the light a few inches till it has passed away, 
and then cover the bed a few inches thick with soil, and 
two or three green turf turned upside down, under the 
centre of each light, and upon which place a barrowful, or a 
little more, of good turfy loam that has been laid up for 
twelvemonths, and of rather a stiffish nature than otherwise, 
as this kind of soil retains moisture much longer than one 
of an opposite nature, and, thereby, requires somewhat less 
attention in watering; otherwise, we have grown as good 
Melons in light loam as in a heavy one. But there is one 
thing we particularly object to, which is a fine-sifted soil; for 
such, when it becomes dry at the top, will not readily take 
in water, excepting at certain places where there is a 
direct passage that it pours through, and leaves the interior 
of the surrounding soil quite dry, which, of course, is very 
injurious. Therefore, w'e will suppose this to be regarded, 
and that a stock of young plants were in preparation in a 
single light frame made up three weeks previously to the 
fruiting-bed. That the seed was sown in pots, and either 
plunged or not, according to the heat of the bed ; and when 
the seed-leaves were pretty w'ell expanded, they were potted 
off into five or six-inch pots, placing two plants on opposite 
sides into each pot, using the same kind of soil as directed 
for the fruiting-bed, or it may be a little more porous, but 
taking care to warm it to, or a little above, the temperature 
of the frames, previously to use. Give a very little water 
after potting to settle the soil, and plunge the pots in the 
bed, and keep the hot sun from them for a few days, till 
they have resumed their growth when a little air may be 
admitted in accordance to their growth and the state of the 
external air, avoiding, at all times, cold draughts, as fewer 
plants are sooner cut off by that means than the Melon. 
They are also very impatient of too much water, and too 
much confined steam, which dung-beds are subject to, yet 
they like a moist atmosphere, providing it is not stagnated. 
If they have done well from the time of potting-off, they 
will, in about three weeks, be strong plants, and ready to 
transfer to their fruiting bed. And in doing this, be careful 
not to let any cold winds blow upon them. Turn the plants 
carefully out of the pots, and insert one into each hill, 
covering and pressing the soil slightly round each hall of 
earth, and give a gentle watering to settle the soil, and 
shade from bright sun till they begin to grow, and after, if i 
they seem to require it. Air must be admitted as they ; 
begin to grow by propping up the lights at the back, and if 
the air be at all cold, a mat or piece of canvass should be 
hung over each opening, to prevent it entering so freely in 
a body; and however many lights there be, we prefer ad¬ 
mitting a little air to each, in preference to admitting the 
same amount at one or two. 
As the plants progress, they will require watering, earth¬ 
ing-up, stopping, and setting the fruit. Stopping, we 
think, is often done too soon, that the plants are thrown 
into fruiting before they have power to nourish one. And 
another reason why we object to early stopping is, that 
it causes a host of stems to spring from the collar of the 
plant, and is so thick that neither sun-liglit, or air can 
enter; that water gets collected, and the consequence is, 
the collar of the plants begins to rot, and, perhaps, causes 
death before the fruit is half matured. 
We stop them when about a foot or eighteen inches loug, 
according to the strength of the plant, and allow two main 
shoots only to each plant, training one towards each corner 
of the frame, and when they have grown a considerable 
length we stop them again. This causes them to show 
abundance of fruit, which we take care to impregnate as 
the blossoms expand, and at the same time, or previously, 
we stop the lateral one or two joints above the fruit, and as 
soon as it can be seen which fruit are swelling-off, we select 
one of the best-shaped to each main shoot, and cut off all 
the others. Thus allowing two fruits to each plant, and 
four to each light. 
They will require rather liberal watering during their 
swelling period, but which should be regulated in accord¬ 
ance to the weather, and the situation in which they are 
grown. As a general rule, water in the morning, and not 
within six inches of the collar of the plants. Warm it to 
the temperature of the frame, and give no more at one 
time than will just moisten the soil through; and as the fruit 
is becoming ripe withhold it altogether. 
Endeavour to keep a moist atmosphere at all times, ex¬ 
cepting when the plants are in flower, and the fruit is be¬ 
coming ripe, and particularly mind to keep a uniform, gentle 
heat and moisture at the root, and take care to give a little 
air early, when the sun is powerful, otherwise, while the 
underside of the leaves are wet, they are liable to get 
scorched. The red-spider is sometimes very troublesome; 
but its appearance is generally owing to an undue amount 
of moisture both at the roots and in the atmosphere; 
therefore, particular attention should be paid to these 
points; for if they once get a head, they are difficult to 
destroy 'without injuring the plants. Sulphur will effect it, 
but it requires a careful hand to use it, that we would, in 
preference, recommend syringing with clean water, and 
keeping the plants shaded for a while. 
We cannot recommend any particular sort to be grown, as 
we believe the best is not known. But we have grown the 
following kinds, and know them to be good :—The Bromham 
Hall, Terry's Green-fleshed , Beech-wood, Snow's Green- 
fleshed, Netted and Egyptian Green-Jleslied. And of the 
Persian varieties, we have grown the Gezce, Ispahan, Green 
and Striped Hoosaince, and Bampsha. The last is an ex¬ 
cellent sort for keeping, as well as good in flavour, though 
we consider the Ispahan the best of this class, and not 
inferior to any other. But the Persian varieties are better 
adapted for houses where they can be trained upon a trellis, 
than the common frame, as we have found some difficulty 
in getting them to set in frames, and particularly if dull 
weather occurs at the setting time; while in houses they may 
be much assisted by fire-heat; and we would give them 
the preference for this structure, though some assert they 
are much more difficult to manage; but in a house we 
never found them so.—J. Thorougood. 
GREY SHANGHAES. 
We have received many letters relative to these birds, for 
which we most heartily wish that they may prove as merit¬ 
orious as some of their possessors wish us to believe. All 
that we can do at present is to endeavour to tell our readers 
what we consider proved, and then leave them to judge for 
themselves. We have done some service in exploding the 
statement that they lay eggs as large as those of the turkey ; 
and still more in securing the assent of their honest owners 
to our opinion, that, at most, they are only a sub-variety of 
the Shanghae. That they prove a very superior sub-variety 
we shall be as glad to have proved as any one of our readers, 
but this has not been proved yet. At all events, they are 
not a distinct variety, and, therefore, not entitled to such a 
misleading name as Brahma Poutra. We wish every one 
of their partisans would imbibe the spirit of Dr. Gust 
Gwynne, whose letter we subjoin. 
“ I return herewith Mr. Woodford’s note and feathers, 
with many thanks for the sight ot them, as also for the kind 
note from yourself which accompanied them. Some fort¬ 
night ago, Mr. Woodford, in reply to some questions from 
myself respecting them, gave me a minute description of 
these birds, which then, and without seeing any feathers, 
quite satisfied me that they were not what are called 
