21 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
October 13. 
the year when the flowering is over; and all the winter 
pruning they need, is to thin out shoots where they are 
too crowded, to cut out very weak ones altogether, and 
to cut off the points of the rest so as to keep the sym¬ 
metry of the pillar. Summer-pruning is the grand 
secret; winter-pruning the bane of this class. But for 
Hybrid Perpetual*, it is in the winter-pruning alone 
that we must look for beauty and success in the follow¬ 
ing season. 
And now, as to how to deal with the bare Pillar Rose, 
Blairii No. 2. There are only two ways to deal effec¬ 
tually with such an extreme case. I have seen palliatives 
enough tried and fail with such instances. It, is of no 
use to beat about the bush in such cases; the first of the 
two remedies is the most effective, but goes hardest 
against the grain—it is to cut down the whole pillar to 
within one foot of the ground, to renew the bed, and to 
water frequently with strong manure-water for the next 
half-dozen years, when this very pillar would be ten feet 
high, and in the highest possible health, providing the 
roots are good. The second plan is, to bend down the 
pillar very carefully, as low as possible, next February; 
to keep it down in that position, tied to stakes, for a 
season, and perhaps two seasons, until suckers were 
forced from the bottom, then to cover the naked parts 
with them, and ultimately, the old rose to be only a 
mere centre piece to the renewed pillar. 
D. Beaton. 
CROWE A SALIGNA. 
This genus is commemorative of a British Botanist. 
There are several species or varieties, such as elliptica 
(oval-leaved), stricta (upright-growing), latifolia (broad¬ 
leaved), and saligna (Willow-leaved); but the mode of 
growth, and the form of the leaves, are the chief dis¬ 
tinguishing characteristics, as the pretty flowers are 
mostly pink and purple, the one shading into the other 
considerably, according to the degree of shade and 
bright sunshine to which the plants are subjected. 
Judging from the prevailing tastes, we cannot be wrong 
in taking Croioect saligna as a good type of the genus, 
and the treatment that it requires as applicable to most, 
if not all, of the others. It is a near door neighbour of 
the Boronias and Eriostemons. 
It is seldom to be met with in a first-rate condition, 
unless on the exhibition tables of some great Societies. 
This, I think, is owing to two causes; the first is, that 
the purchaser, seeing the plant when in bloom, and 
receiving no particular attention then, is apt to imagine 
that it requires none; and the second is, that so much 
has been said of the hardiness of New Holland plants, 
and the amount of cold they will bear in their native 
localities uninjured, that we are too apt to indulge them 
with a New Holland winter, leaving them to shift as 
they best can for the natural summers of these latitudes; 
a course of management, which, if it keeps the Crouea 
in existence, will assuredly prevent it exhibiting first- 
rate marks of excellence. The great thing with such 
plants is to combine, in one summer, a growing, a 
blooming, and a maturing period, and then the winter 
may be looked upon purely as a period of resting, just 
keeping the plant almost the same as the autumn left it, 
with but little growth. But all this cannot be done, 
year after year, if the plant is always confined to the 
treatment generally given to the denizens of a cool 
greenhouse. If kept cool, and with plenty of air in 
spring, it will rarely bloom until late in summer and 
autumn, and unless the latter season is very bright and 
warm, and the plant enjoys it all, the wood will not be 
sufficiently matured to produce flowering shoots next 
season. Keeping in view that the bloom, as in the case 
of the Viue, is produced on the current year’s shoots, 
proceeding from the well-ripened shoots of the previous 
autumn, a key-note is furnished ns to the mode of its 
successful treatment; and to a few points in that mode I 
will shortly refer. 
1. Propagation. —There is little difficulty in this, pro¬ 
vided nice young shoots, from two to three inches in 
length, be obtained from April to June, just taken off 
with a heel, that is, slipped off close to the older shoot 
whence they proceed, or so old as to be getting firmish 
at the bud, against the base of which you make a 
horizontal clear cut. Insert these in sand, over sandy 
peat, in pots three-parts filled with drainage; fix them 
firmly by watering, and when the tops are dry, place a 
bell-glass firmly over them, and place them so that they 
may have a bottom-heat of 70°, and a top temperature 
ranging from 55° to (55°. Pot off as soon as struck; 
keep close until growth is freely proceeding, and then 
give air gradually at first, and then plentifully. I have 
alluded so often to the rationale involved in this— 
shading, &c., that it would be no compliment to the 
readers of this work now to repeat them at length. 
2. Choosing Plants in a Nursery. —Much that w r as 
said about the Eriostemon will be perfectly applicable 
here. A nice young plant, furnished to the base with 
young shoots, or capable of being so furnished, by 
stopping and pruning those already there, combined 
with freedom from crampedness of the roots for pot- 
room, are essential conditions for forming a nice 
specimen. 
3. Training. —From the first this must be kept 
steadily iu view. All modes have their peculiar ad¬ 
vantages. For this, I would decidedly prefer the conical, 
as not only looking well, but involving least trouble, as 
when o>uce the plant is formed, and supported with one 
neat stake in the centre, little more than an annual 
pruning, and a little annual arranging, and hasping of 
the young shoots will be necessary. The lower shoots 
must, for this mode, therefore, be early hooked down, 
or hasped down in a nearly horizontal position, by con¬ 
necting them with a thread to another string or wire 
fastened round the rim of the pot. 
4. Potting. —Unless great care is taken in the water¬ 
ing, this plant is impatient of large shifts. When the 
plant is small, half-an-inch from the ball to the side of 
the pot will be sufficient. As the plants get larger, one 
inch will be ample, unless the operator studies and prac¬ 
tises what has already been said on the one-shift system. 
Be the plant young or old, as it will be both economical 
and of advantage to the plant to keep it cool (resting) 
in winter, the roots should be fastening round the sides 
of the pot before the dark days come, and, therefore, 
with plants several years of age it will not be advisable 
to repot after the middle of J uly. Young ones intended 
to be grown and not bloomed may be potted later. 
5. Soil. —This should consist chiefly of fibry peat, 
kept open with a fourth part of broken pots, sand-stone, 
charcoal, and silver sand. As the plants get large a 
little fihry sandy loam may be added. Drainage must 
be duly attended to, and the new soil pressed firm 
round the ball, and left slightly higher than the old to 
make up for sinking. This not only secures the old 
soil being thoroughly watered, but prevents the new 
soil from being unduly soaked before there are roots in 
it to suck up the moisture. 
0. Position, Temperature, General Management —I 
will take, as the basis in this division of my remarks, 
a nice young plant that it is desirable to grow on, or a 
plant that has bloomed early, and that is desired to 
flower well again. I may just remark, that when the 
blooming and growing has been going on cotemporane- 
ously, there will be the less occasion to encourage the 
principle of growth slowly, and, therefore, the plants, in 
summer, may be kept more airy than I here advise. In 
general cases, however, the following treatment will 
answer. In June and July, and part of August, keep 
