OcTOIiEU 20. 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
45 
autumn. As now is the time to plant this flower, I 
think a few remarks on its culture will be opportune, 
and, I trust, useful to many of the readers of The 
Cottage Gardener. 
The Anemone that is generally cultivated, is the one 
that botanists designate by the scientific name of 
Anemone coronarin, the crown or poppy Anemone. It 
is this species that produces tire greatest varieties of 
colours, both in a single and double state. There is, 
however, another species that florists hold in great 
estimation, and it is named the Anemone hortensis, the 
Garden or Star Anemone, the flowers of which are 
exceedingly beautiful, hut they do not bloom for so long 
a season, and scarcely ever in the later months of the 
year. Of this species, I believe, there is only one variety 
that produces double flowers, and it is the double-red. 
Properties of a fine Double Anemone .—The blossom 
should be from two-aud-a half to three inches diameter, 
consisting of an outside row of stout, large, well-rounded 
petals, which florists call the guard leaves. These 
should spread out horizontally to the edges, which latter 
should turn upwards slightly, so as to form a saucer-like 
appearance. Within these guard-leaves, and at a little 
distance from the edges, there should be such a number 
of long, small petals, longest at the bottom, and gradually 
shortening to the centre, so as to form a half ball-like 
appearance. This form is so well-known, that when a 
similar one takes place in any other flower, it is de¬ 
scribed by the name Anemone-flora, and is found in 
the Camellia and Pceony. Self-coloured flowers should 
have the colour clear, bright, and distinct, whether it be 
blue, crimson, or scarlet. If variegated, that is, the 
interior and exterior petals striped, the colours should 
be very distinct, for even cloudiness, or irregular broken 
stripes, are objectionable. Lastly, the stem should be 
elastic, yet stout enough to bear the flower erect, and 
should be, at least, from eight to nine inches high. 
Soil and Situation .-—The Anemone requires a pure 
loamy soil, well-mixed with sand. Such a soil I have 
sometimes found on the sides of rivers naturally mixed 
with the sand. No doubt such soil is formed by the 
deposit from tlio water, when at some former time it 
overflowed its banks. In this sandy loam the roots 
should be planted, but when extra fine blooms for ex¬ 
hibition are wanted, a little more pains must be bestowed 
in forming the bed. First choose a situation that is 
open, but sheltered from violent winds, or strong 
twisting currents of air, which often prevail near 
buildings of different angles. Having fixed upon the 
site of the bed, then dig out the soil a foot or more, 
according to the situation being high or low. If high, 
it may be dug out three or four inches deeper; but if 
low and wet, a foot will be sufficient. Mix the soil with 
sand if it requires it, and fill in the bed again to within 
six inches of the level of the surface ; then level it, and 
lay on it a thin covering of thoroughly decomposed hot¬ 
bed, or cow’s dung; the latter is to be preferred. Mix 
this well with the soil below. Upon this mixed, 
enriched soil, place as much of the pure sandy loam as 
will raise the bed an inch or two above the walk. No 
dung must be among this top stratum of soil, because 
duug causes the peculiar disease called mould to attack 
the bulbs that come in contact with it. The real roots, 
or feeders, will soon find the rich soil below. The bed 
is then ready for 
Planting .—One very commendable quality in the 
Anemone is that it is hardier than the Ranunculus, and, 
consequently, can bo planted in the autumn, to bloom 
early in the spring. The best season is about the middle 
of October to the first week in November, because then 
the bulbs form roots before the severe frost sets in. 
This is of importance, for if roots are not made before 
that takes placo, the tubers are liable to be destroyed by 
the frost. Should the planting be unavoidably delayed, 
[ through continued wet weather, or any other cause, the 
bed must then be covered with fern or straw, to prevent 
their being injured. Choose, if possible, a time when 
the soil is moderately dry, and the day fine. Draw 
drills two inches deep across the bed, five or six inches 
apart, and plant the tubers five inches apart in the 
rows. For choice varieties, a thin layer of sand 
scattered under and around each tuber will be useful. 
As soon as the bed is planted, cover the tubers with 
sandy loam from a basket or wheelbarrow. This is 
much preferable to levelling the drills in with a rake, 
because then the tubers will be regularly covered a 
right depth. Take care, however, that the tubers are 
placed the right side up. This may be easily done by 
observing the side that has the old small fibres on it. 
That side should be placed next to the bottom of the 
drill. When all are planted and covered up the right 
depth (two inches) then level the surface with a garden 
rake, and if there are no permanent edgings, trim off 
the edges of the bed with the spade, and rake the walks. 
After-management .—Should it be necessary to protect 
the plants with any kind of covering, and the weather 
should prove mild, the covering should be removed, and 
replaced on the appearance, or likelihood, of a return of 
frost, and when the fine weather of spring sets in re¬ 
move the shelter entirely. Should the weather prove 
droughty in spring, a thorough watering, now and then, 
will encourage a free growth and fine bloom. And 
the bloom would be greatly prolonged if an awning of 
canvass, or even garden mats, be stretched over the bed, 
upon a frame of hoops, to shelter the flowers from the 
sun. This covering would also be useful as a protection 
from high winds, or heavy splashing rains. As a matter 
of course, all weeds must be plucked up as they appear, 
and a diligent watch kept to prevent snails and slugs 
preying upon the plants. T. Appleby. 
{To be continued.') 
STOVE FERNS. 
(Continued from page 26 .) 
Adiantom teneruji (Tender). — From the West 
Indies. Is a very beautiful Fern, easily propagated by 
dividing the creeping rhizoma or root-stock. It is ever¬ 
green, growing two feet high, with leaf-stems four times 
pinnated or branched; each leaf is rhomboidal, and of 
beautiful bright green. 
A. trapeziforjie (Trapezium-leaved).—A native of 
the West Indies. When this Fern is well-grown, I 
know of none more ornamental. To effect this, it 
should be frequently potted, and if some small charcoal 
is mixed with the compost it will thrive much better. 
It may be increased by division, as well as by seeds. 
Its leaves are large, and the seed-vessels are beau¬ 
tifully arranged on the edges of the leaves ; stems black 
and shining. It ought to be in every collection how¬ 
ever small. 
Alsophila.—A genus of large Ferns almost approach¬ 
ing to arborescense or tree-like. Where there is plenty 
of room, they are well worthy of cultivation, but in 
small collections tbeir culture should not be attempted. 
They may be distinguished by their sori or seed-cases 
being round, and placed regularly about half-way 
between the edge of the leaf and the mid-rib, generally, 
but not always, at the end of the veins which branch 
out at regular intervals from the mid-rib. In cultivation 
they require plenty of pot room. 
A. articulata (Jointed).—A noble Fern from Jamaica, 
growing five feet high, with fronds six or eight feet long. 
They are bipinnate, jointed, or articulated, with rachis 
or stem, which is covered with spines and scales. 
A. i-’erox (Rough or Prickly).—A West Indian Fern. 
