THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
October 27. 
GREENHOUSE. 
Air, admit rather freely, in rlry weather. Azaleas, for blooming 
early, keep in the warmest end of the house, and they will not lose many 
of their leaves; if the buds are well set and prominent, a few may receive 
the heat,of a plant stove, to bring them in by Christmas; those once 
forced will come earlier of their own accord again. Those for flowering 
in spring and early summer keep as cool as possible, so that the tempera¬ 
ture isabove 35°. Boles, such as Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissus, &c., pot 
for spring flowering, and so manage them that roots shall precede flower- 
stems. Calceolarias, keep growing slowly, in an airy, moist atmo¬ 
sphere ; seedlings, pot off, and prick into pans ; cuttings of shrubby ones 
may now be potted, and cuttings mav even be put in in the beginning of 
the month, in a cool, moist place. Camellias, finish setting in; and 
the late ones may have their buds thinned, if necessary ; the earliest will 
now he swelling, and a little cow-dung water, cleared, and not too strong, 
will do them good; these should be placed with the forward Azaleas. 
Cinerarias, encourage the forwardest to grow in a moist, gentle heat; 
keep those for spring and summer just moving. Climrers. however 
beautiful, cut back to give light to the other plants. Chrysanthemums, 
remove incipient roots from the axils of the leaves on the main shoots ; 
thin the buds where too thick ; encourage with manure water ; and if not 
all in-doors, have protection ready. Damp stagnant air, avoid. Fires, , 
light in frosty and foggy weather, that air may be given ; but give arti¬ 
ficial heat during the day, rather than at night, unless the frost is very 
severe. Choose a sunny day, if possible, to light your first fire, as your 
flue, See., will be more easily dried ; it is no joke to be fixed in a stock- 
hole behind a fire that will not burn. Furnaces and Flues, clean out 
previously. Heaths and Epacrises, keep in the airiest part, espe¬ 
cially the former. Genistas, Cytisuses, Coronillas, &c., syringe in 
a sunny day, and aid with manure water, to cause the bloom to open 
strongly. Geraniums or Pelargoniums, encourage the old plants 
with a good position ; train into the desired shape. Nip any luxuriant 
shoot, so as to equalise the strength ; keep fresh potted ones just moving. 
Gompholobiums, Ptatylobiums, Chorozemas , &c., place in double pots, 
that they may be more uniform in moisture, as extreme dryness and ex¬ 
treme wet will alike be their ruin. Plants, keep clear from dirt and I 
insects, by washing and fumigation. Temperature, keep from 40° to 
45° at night. Water only when necessary in dull weather; little will 
be wanted, unless for plants swelling their flower-buds; for these use 
water warmer than the air of the house. A slight dusting with the 
syringe over the foliage will be serviceable in a sunny morning. Clean 
pots, paths, stages; tie, train, and fresh label in bad weather. 
R. Fish. 
FRUIT-FORCING. 
* Cherries in Tuns, &c., protect roots. Capsicums, dry off at root 
to ripen them. Cucumbers, afford necessary heat, not below 70°, with 
air-moisture and all possible light. Early forcing prepare for. Figs ] 
for forcing, get to rest; protect pots or boxes, as also branches. Flues, 
clean all and repair. Insects, continue the warfare against, also pre- i 
ventive measures. Mushroom-beds, provide succession ; spawn when | 
down to 7b°; sprinkle beds where the Mushrooms are coming through ; | 
keep a moist air. Melons, sustain 75° bottom-heat, 70° top-heat, with 
abundance of air; fumigate if infected. Nectarines and Peaches, j 
prepare for early forcing, by using the wash so often named in this 
work, pruning them previously. Pines, in dung-pits, improve declining 
heats; 6o° to 70°, with liberal ventilation. Pines, late fruiters, 5° more; 
air in moderation. Repairs, carry out directly in all houses. Rest 
fruits for forcing, plunge and protect wood. Strawberries, in pots, 
plunge and protect. Ventilation, attend well to during dull periods. 
Vines, for early forcing, as Peaches; if roots outside, protect border 
directly. Vines, in fruit, fire occasionally; ventilate freely; keep very 
dry, and use scissors weekly. R. Errington. 
ORCHARD. 
Borders, autumn-dress. Buds, cut bandages of. Chesnuts, 
gather. . Dress to Kill Insects as soon as pruned. Fruit, gather 
all remaining. Fruit-trees of all kinds plant. Fruit-rooms, venti¬ 
late freely. Fruit-stores, pick over. Insects wage war against, at 
every opportunity. Medlars, preserve. Mulch, apply to newly- 
planted trees. Nuts, remove suckers from. Nailing, proceed with, 
in order to expedite spring business. Pruning, perform in the following 
order: 1st. Bush-fruit, then Cherries, Apples, Plums, Peaches, Vines, 
&c., and ordinary Pears, reserving choice ones, Apricots, Figs, &c., 
until spring. Protection tor blossom, lay by from shrubbery or wood 
prunings. Planting, proceed with, all but Figs and Vines. Rasp¬ 
berries, ^plant^ suckers from, and prune. Root-pruning, perform 
immediately. Staking, see to. Strawberries, remove rubbish 
between rows, and manure, but cut not the foliage. Stations, prepare. 
Training, carry out betimes. Tomatoes, ripen before the fire. Top- 
dressings, apply. Walks, turn or clean for the winter. Weather: 
provide in-door’s work for a bad season, such as labels, stakes, training 
pegs, &c., and grind your bill-hooks, and file your hand-saws. 
- R. Errington. 
ORCHID HOUSE. 
Air will seldom be required during this month ; keep the air inside 
much cooler, because most of the plants ought now to be in a state of 
rest. Baskets, plants in, should only be syringed; they ought to be so 
placed that the drip from them may fall into the walk. Division : 
such plants as Stanhopeas, Gongoras, and Acropeiu, may be divided this 
month, with a view to increase them; give these no water till they start 
into growth again. Heat : the thermometer in the warmer house should 
be allowed to fall to 58° in the night, and never exceed 70° by day; 65° 
without sun will be sufficient. Potting will be required occasionally ; 
even at this untoward season of the year some plants will grow, and, 
therefore, must be potted, because if delayed, the young roots will begin 
to push and then it is difficult to pot without breaking them. Rest: 
keep all the plants possible at rest for the next two months ; the means 
are a cooler and drier atmosphere, and no more water at the root than is 
absolutely necessary to prevent the pseudo-bulbs perishing. Syringing 
will be necessary to plants on blocks, two or three times during the 
month. Water, apply sparingly, except to plants growing; to these a 
larger quantity may be given. T. Appleby. 
PLANT STOVE. 
Air will still be necessary to this department; give it early in the 
forenoon, and close the opening by two o’clock. To sweeten the air, 
light the fires early in the morning , and give air accordingly ; this will 
allow a large body of fresh air to enter the house, which will displace as 
much foul air. Cuttings of stove plants should all be potted off early 
this month if rooted. Bulbs should now generally be at rest; keep 
them dry and moderately cool, to prevent a too early excitement. Forc¬ 
ing-flowers for this department should be commenced slowly, early in 
the month, such as Azaleas, Lilacs, Laburnums, Rhododendrons, Ruses, 
&c. These will flower in December or January. Winter-flowering 
Plants will now he showing their flowers. They should have a moderate 
supply of water, and occasionally a watering with weak liquid-manure. 
Keep every part of the stove perfectly sweet and clean; remove all decay¬ 
ing leaves as they occur ; stir up the surface of the soil in the pots, to 
prevent moss and weeds from appearing. In this month, a supply of the 
different soils, manures, and vegetable mould, should be procured. 
T. Appleby. 
FLORISTS’ FLOWERS. 
Anemones may yet be planted, excepting the finest double ones. 
Auriculas and Polyanthuses; no delay must take place in putting 
these into winter quarters, if not already done. Scatter occasionally 
amongst the pots a layer of very dry ashes, which will absorb the moisture. 
Carnations and Picotees, finish taking off the layers, and potting 
them ; place them in cold frames, giving plenty of air every day. 
Dahlias, cut down when frost-bitten, and cover the roots with a small 
hillock of coal-aslies, or take them up at once, and reverse the roots, to 
allow the moisture to run out of the hollow stem. Number every root, 
and put them by in a dry, cool place, where no frost can reach them. 
Fuchsias, done blooming, prune in, and give no water to, for a month. 
Hyacinths, finish planting, both in pots and beds. Irises, both 
Spanish and English, plant in a rich soil and open situation. Nar¬ 
cissus, pot and plant out in the beds. Pinks, plant out early; fasten 
firmly, to prevent the frosts from drawing them out. Ranunculus- 
beds prepare. Turban variety plant in beds and pots, the fine-named 
varieties do not plant till spring. Tulips, plant on or about the 10th of 
the month ; choose a dry day for doing this. Verbenas, take up and 
pot, dressing-off the straggling branches ; their cuttings shelter from 
early frost. All Florists’ Flowers in Frames and Pits keep mode¬ 
rately dry, clear of weeds, and decaying leaves. Search for Slugs and 
other vermin daily. T. Appleby. 
KITCHEN-GARDEN. 
Artichokes, winter dress. Asparagus-beds, dress; attend to that 
in forcing, and plant in succession. Beans, plant a good main crop 
toward the end of the month. Beet (Red), dig up for storing. Bro- 
coli, lav down or remove to other warmer situations with good balls of 
earth ; take care not to injure their leaves. Cabbages, plant or prick 
out into nursery-beds. Cardoons, earth up, b. Carrots, dig up and 
store, b.; leave or plant out for seed. Cauliflowers, prick out in 
frames. &c., for winter protection ; pay particular attention to airing in all 
fine weather, both hand-glass crops and otherwise. Celery, earth-up 
in dry afternoons, having the earth all forked up previously. Cole- 
worts, plant. Composts, prepare, and always have a supply in the 
dry for immediate use. Cucumbers, attend to in forcing. Draining, 
attend to where required. Dung, prepare for hotbeds. Earthing-up, 
attend to. Endive, tie up for blanching or otherwise; pay particular 
attention to protection. Gaelic, plant. Herbary, clean, &c. Hoeing, 
attend to ; on a fine afternoon never lose a favourable opportunity for this 
or any other kind of work. Horseradish, dig up, and lay in the prime 
for use, and replant. Hotbeds, make for salading, the. Jerusalem 
Artichokes, dig up and store. Leaves, continually collect into some 
corner for future use. Lettuces, plant in frames’; attend to those 
advancing. Mint, plant; force in hotbed. Musiiroom-bf.ds, make; 
attend to those in production. Onions, in store, look over; (Potato), 
plant. Parsley, plant some in a frame for use in snowy weather! 
Parsnits, dig up and store, b.; leave or plant out for seed. Peas, of 
the best early kinds, may be sown toward the middle or end of the month. 
Potatoes, attend to those in store, or dig up, should any remain out. 
Rhubarb, clear away decayed leaves, and top dress; also pot off any 
number of plants that may be required for early forcing, to bring into the 
forcing structure as wanted. Radishes, sow, in hotbed. Salsafy, 
dig up and store. Scorzonera, dig up and store. Sea-kale, pay 
particular attention to the removing of all the decayed leaves, &c.; top¬ 
dressing, covered up with fermenting materials, or other modes of 
forcing. Seeds, dress and store. Shallots, plant, b. Small Salad- 
ing, sow; sow in hotbed. Spinach, thin, earth-stir, and keep clear of 
decayed and fallen leaves. Thinning, attend to. Trench, ridge, See., 
vacant ground. Turnips, attend to thinning-out, or hoeing the late 
sown crops, and should the weather be inclined to set in very severe, anv 
number of turnips that arc full grown may be taken up, and stored for 
winter use. Spading-in is often better than the hoc. Always Cover- 
up a little earlier on the appearance of frosty nights. Also look over your 
Brocoli quarters of a frosty-looking evening. See if any are fit to cut, 
or if their leaves need to be broken down over the heads as a protection. 
T. Weaver. 
London: Printed by Harry Wooldridge, Winchester High-street, 
in the Parish of Saint Mary Kalendar; and Published by William 
Somerville Ore, of Church Hill, Walthamstow, in the County of 
Essex, at the Office, No. 2, Amen Corner, in the Parish of Christ 
Church, City of London.—October 27 th, 1863. 
