108 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
and out of harm’s way; do not reverse or jar it violently, as 
in these eases the mercury is liable to become separated. 
The hole to admit the fauset in the mash-tub will probably 
be bored an inch or two from its bottom, pour some water 
from the copper till level with it, and allow this to be 
reckoned as waste, for it cannot very readily be run from 
the tub in the shape of wort, unless a means of tilting is 
adopted ; very large mash-tubs have their strainers situated 
at the bottom. Agreeable to the first supposition, you are 
about to brew 50 gals, of beer, and intend to allow 4 bushels 
of malt for the quantity; 04 gals, of water will be required, 
! thus: I consider 4 gals, to wet each bushel of malt, and 21 
j gals, for evaporation in boiling as waste; 04, less 10, less 21, 
leaves 7 gals, over 50, which will be required to fill up the 
I cask in its working process. Tour 10 gals, more water from 
I the copper into the mash-tub, on account of the malt (easily 
accomplished and measured by one of the pails which hold 
4-§ gals.); and quickly damp the fire by shovelling in at the 
furnace door some moistened slack; then add a few gallons 
of cold to the hot water in the copper, plunge the thermo¬ 
meter into it for a few seconds, take it out and observe the 
mercury, if this indicates more than 170°, it is too hot; add 
more cold water, until lowered to the desired heat. If you 
are not particular in this you will probably scald the malt, 
and spoil the brewing; though, should the weather bo very 
cold, 4 to (i degrees more heat will not signify. 
Water, 1)4 gals.; 10 gals, are already in the tub, the 
remaining 78, divided by 2, gives 39 gals, for cadi mash; 
ascertain the temperature of the water in the mash-tub, 
which will by this time be about right, and shoot one-third 
of the malt into it; measure 20 gals, more water from the 
copper, stir it thoroughly with the mash stick, and be care¬ 
ful not to disturb the strainer, then add the remaining malt, 
with the exception of about half a bucket, measure the other 
19 gals, of water to the tub, stir as at first, and spread 
evenly over its surface the malt reserved. Our forefathers 
were wont to form two marks diagonally across with their 
forefinger, and to form the impress of a figure of six in each 
angle, allowing, for a pretext, that no witch could ever leap 
over the aggregate No. 24 and the cross! But the days of 
leaping witches being over, this last operation may be dis¬ 
pensed with. Place a broomstick astride the top of the tub, 
and cover it over with the malt sacks; thus suspended, they 
do not fall into the mash and get wetted, if they do, the 
maltster will tell you of it; place the large cooler under the 
fauset, look at the clock, and the first mash is completed. 
Again fill the copper with water, and at the expiration of 
three hours place the lading bucket under the fauset, 
unscrew the spigot to about one-third of its bore, and allow 
the wort to escape gently; return it, into the mash-tub till 
you perceive it run off clear, which it should do after cmit- 
ing two or three gallons; then let it escape into the cooler, 
and secure the spigot from becoming forced out of its place 
i by means of a little wooden wedge. The time occupied for 
j running off the wort should he about an hour, after which 
! screw home the spigot again. 
j The water boiling, damp the fire, ascertain the tempera¬ 
ture, which, for the second mash, should be 18u°; measure 
20 gals., then 1!) gals, of water into the mash-tub, stir well, 
j lay over the sacks, look at the clock, and allow the mash to 
i remain three hours as before. 
Now immediately shift the wort from the cooler to the 
copper, and add the hops, separating them between your 
hand as you do so, incorporate them well with the wort by 
stirring and sifting witli the mash stick, and do not interfere 
again till the beer begins to boil, which, if you keep a good 
fire, it may possibly do in three-quarters of an hour. AVatcla 
it narrowly, for if, through negligence, it should boil over 
at this stage, ere you are aware of it, it will be all out of the 
copper in no time before you can possibly stop it; so soon 
as the hops heave and break, and foam appears through the 
fissures, look at the clock. It must now claim your undivided 
I attention about an hour; allow it to boil freely for that time, 
coaxing it within bounds with the mash stick, though if it 
persist in boiling too violently, set the furnace door ajar for 
a few minutes ; after the first hour it will naturally of itself 
boil more gently, and then cast into it a handful of salt. 
Begin to run off the wort at its proper time as before. 
I Keep the beer gently simmering, and occasionally stir it 
with the mash stick till its expiration of two-and-a-lialf- 
Novembeb 10. 
hours is fulfilled; then make up a foundation for the fire 
by introducing some of the stout wood with a portion of 
nobbly coal, and over all some moistened slack; place the 
large brewing tub near the copper, suspend the brewing 
ladder upon it, and on that the sieve; lade the beer from 
the copper into the latter, where the hops will be retained; 
this done, immediately put some wort from the cooler into 
the copper to prevent its burning. Move off the strained 
beer to a cool place (my plan is to carry it to the cellar and 
empty it into a cooler), in so doing he careful; hear in mind 
we are brewing, after a manner, by measure; and as a further 
caution, I mention the results of my two last brewings, the 
quantity each time 150 gals. In the first, I had li gals, of 
beer over and to spare; for the next, one quart; therefore, if 
I had negligently upset any in the last brewing, I should 
have been at a nonplus. Separate five to six gallons of the 
hot beer into a small tub to cool ready for fermentation, 
and by this time the wort will again have all run off, put it 
into the copper, and return the hops there also from the 
sieve. 
During the time it takes to boil, we will, with ope eye of 
our mind resting upon it, soliloquise with the other about 
small beer, and come to an understanding for the grains. 
Between seven and eight hours’ immersion in hot water 
have very nearly, if not quite, extracted the saccharine 
qualities from the malt; another mash would turn the now 
grains sour, consequently, the liquid that would run from 
them might be termed anything hut sweet-wort; and in lieu 
of its ever becoming a palateable beverage, would, after all 
the time and labour bestowed upon it, remain unwholesome; 
a capital stimulant for bowel complaints, or cholera, more 
especially for a small family. In large establishments, 
where they brew very strong ale, and have a great call for 
quick consumption, the case may he different. I have 
several times tried this third mash system in a small way, 
and invariably found it had economy ; therefore, instead of 
using five bushels of malt to the 00 gals, (unless for a cask 
reserved for grand occasions), I substitute four bushels, and 
make purposed brewings for table beer, allowing at those 
times the reserved bushel of malt to chime an extra as a 
condolence. Having tlnas unbuvtbened my mind, I will 
bring this small subject to a close by stating what difference 
I allow for its process in contradistinction to ale. Table 
beer - (50 gals.), three bushels of malt and two pounds of 
hops; first mash, three; second mash, two hours; boilings, 
two hours each; and here let it be observed, 12 gals, of 
water will be the waste for the malt, and the evaporation 
for four hours boiling, in lieu of five, will practically, and by 
a rule of three sum, be as 21 to Hi nearly; therefore, instead 
of 04 gals, of water required for the ale brewing, use 80 
only; give the same quantity of harm, and allow eight to 
ten degi - ees excess of heat for working; small beer inquires 
more stimulating to bring on and keep up the fermentation. 
Grains; these should be conveyed to the hog cistern, or 
become otherwise disposed of. Perhaps the “ pony” and the 
cow naight relish a feed. At any rate, the mash-tub is to 
become the working tub, and if the grains are allowed to 
remain there longer than necessaiy, they will turn it sour, 
which must'he guarded against; away with them. Take out 
the fauset, &c., close the hole with a large cork, scrub and 
scald the tub, and roll it into the cellar to cool; let the 
fauset and strainer undergo the same course, and when 
they are dry, jalace them orderly away for the next brewing. 
AA'ell, another hour, and the boiling beer may again partly 
be supposed to take care of itself. It is now early moi'iiing, 
when the discussion of a rasher of bacon and a mug of hot 
tea, let me hint, would he found a capital invention, highly 
invigorating, and founding for the inner naan fresh spia-it 
to cara-y out his operations ananlully aaad cheerfully. — 
UPWABDS AKD OXWAKDS. 
(2’o be continued.) 
i 
AIR AS A NON-CONDUCTOR OF HEAT. 
Mn. Fish, in his article, priaited at p. 42, states correctly, 
that coaafiaied air is oaae of tlae best noaa-coaaductors of heat; 
in some circumstances, a still better non-conductor will be 
found in air allowed to circulate fa - eely between two objects. 
Thus, in the case of the evaporating pan placed oaa the hot 
