382 ' 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
February 10. 
I 
lawn. Wild scenery, and Inigo rock-works, are the scenes 
in which they would revel and feel most at home. When 
walking through such places in princely establishments, 
I have often thought what fine accessories the Adam’s 
Needles would give. No place is so small but a few of 
these plants would lend it an additional charm. They 
are easily propagated by suckers and offsets. I think 
Mr. Beaton has already referred to this singular tribe, 
and a proper defence and recommendation of their pe¬ 
culiar fitness for certain circumstances could not be 
left in better hands. 
R. Fish. 
THE CYCLAMEN. 
(Continued from page 362.) 
The flowers of these plants are, as I have said before, 
exceedingly beautiful, but I must also claim for the 
foliage of many of the species the same praise. The 
markings of the leaves are almost as beautiful as those 
of the leaves of some of the Anmctochils, which my 
esteemed friend, Mr. Beaton, has written about lately. 
Almost every seedling plant of 0 . Europeum and C. 
liederifolium have different shades of white and green on 
their leaves, so that in raising seedlings the interest 
of the cultivator is greatly heightened thereby. 
In describing the potting operation, I omitted to 
mention that C. coum should have the bulbs covered 
about a quarter-of-au-ineb. The reason for this differ¬ 
ence I can scarcely say, but it is practised by all growers, 
myself included. It may be, that if the bulbs were left 
exposed the leaves of this species would fall down and 
be very irregular, instead of forming a neat, handsome 
plant. It is difficult, in some few cases, to give a satis¬ 
factory reason for some particular point of culture, and 
this is one. Experience says—cover the bulbs with the 
compost a quarter-of-au-inch, and I know of no reason 
to depart from the rule. 
Summer Culture. —This season I will suppose to com¬ 
mence as soon as the leaves begin to push forth, which 
generally happens, if they are cultivated in a cold frame, 
about the end of January. They will then require a 
gentle watering; and as the leaves advance the quantity 
should be gradually increased. The month, following 
the flower buds will begin to appear; then, if the pos¬ 
sessor has a greenhouse, they should be removed into 
it, and placed near to the glass, to keep them from being 
drawn. In this position more water will be required; 
hut the soil should not be kept constantly wet, but 
allowed to become dry on the surface between each 
successive watering. Plenty of air will be beneficial on 
all favourable occasions; and when the plants are fully 
in bloom they may be placed in such situations of the 
house as will show the beauty of the flowers to the 
greatest advantage. 1 have them placed upon empty 
pots turned upside down, which elevates them above 
the other plants upon the platform, or stage, where 
they stand. 
After the bloom is over, and the late frosts all gone, 
I set them out-of-doors upon a bed of coal-ashes, in 
front ot an east wall, wl»ere they can enjoy the morning 
sun. \\ ater should still be given to them in dry wea¬ 
ther, the graud object being to preserve the leaf and 
root-action for two or three months. This gradually 
increases the size of the bulbs, and stores up a large 
amount of vigour for the following year. By the end of 
June, the leaves will begin to show symptoms of ripe¬ 
ness and decay, then withhold water, and to ensure 
perfect rest, lay the pots on their sides, so that no 
summer rains may cause precocious growth. 
During all this treatment in the open air keep a 
constaut look-out lor slugs and snails. These pests are 
very much pleased to feed upon tho young buds, which, 
if eaten off quite clean, destroys them effectually. I 
believe they are more destructive to these charm- j 
ing plants than any other, therefore be diligent | 
in hunting them out of their hiding-places. They may : 
generally be found lodging under the pots, and some- ; 
times form a neat, snug homestead, or den, in the hole | 
at the bottom of the pots, from whence, if they are not . 
discovered and destroyed, they may issue forth at night 
and make sad havoc. 
Winter Treatment. — The operations for the winter 
treatment are easy and lew. I suppose this season to ] 
commence about September. They will then, or, at j 
least, should, be completely at rest; but as frosts may 
then be expected it will he prudent to protect them, 
and as a removal to effect this must be determined 
upon, it will be well then to repot them at once. That 
operation enables us to get rid of all worms or slugs 
that may be in or about the pots. I need not repeat 
how to repot them, as I have already sufficiently de¬ 
scribed how to perform that operation under the head 
“ Potting.” When all are potted, then place them in a 
cold frame, on a thick bed of coal-ashes or sawdust. 
If the latter is used, place a thin layer of soot over the 
soil first,—this will effectually prevent worms from pene 
trating through the sawdust into the pots. In this posi¬ 
tion they will require no water, and should have the 
lights drawn off all fine days; even if a little frosty it 
will not hurt the more hardy kinds. The C. persicum 
requires a somewhat different treatment; it is a decided 
greenhouse plant; and when repotted, which it should 
be at the same time, it should be placed on the green¬ 
house shelf immediately;—the cold frame is too cool for it, 
even if well covered-up; besides, it flowers much earlier. 
I have a fine plant of C. persicum rubicum, a splendid 
variety, now, at the moment I am writing, in fine flower. 
During severe weather it will he advisable to cover- 
up even the more hardy ones with a mat or two, to 
break off the ill effect of long-continued severe frosts; 
but as soon as the leaves grow remove the plants into 
the greenhouse. These plants always, excepting C. 
persicum and its varieties, may be grown out-of-doors; 
but as my allotted space is full, I must defer their 
culture out-of-doors to another opportunity. 
T. Appleby. 
{To be continued .) 
STOVE FERNS. 
{Continued from page 206 .) 
Drynaria irioides (Iris-like).—An East Indian Fern, 
of a rather coarse habit. Fronds simple, of a long 
spear-like shape, sometimes lobed at the margin. The 
seed-vessels are very small, and thickly placed on the 
upper part of the fertile frond. In this Fern occurs the 
rare case of having the veins in the interior of the 
frond. Easily increased by its creeping rhizoma. It is 
very suitable to grow under large Palms, or other tall- 
growing stove trees. 
D. longipes (Long-stalked).—Another East Indian 
Fern, with a peculiar long leaf-stalk, hence its specific 
name. The fronds grow three feet long, and are pinnate 
and leathery; the pinnte grow laterally and have 
segments very broad towards the base; seed-vessels 
large, in two rows. Increased by dividing the creeping I 
root-stock. 
D. melanococca (Black-stemmed).—An East Indian 
Fern, of a tall, graceful habit. The fronds reach frequently 
the height of three feet, and are pinnatifid ; the pinnre are 
distant from each other, and are rather sharp-pointed, j 
and of a light green. The seed-vessels are large and j 
placed in one row, rising up above the surface of the 
frond, it is a fine Fern, easily grown, and increased by I 
dividing the creeping rhizoma. 
