THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
February 23. 
I 410 
Turpentine for Gapes (Lucy). — Mr. Tcgetmeier pave full 
, directions in our last volume. Shut up the fowl in a box with some 
i spirit of turpentine poured upon a very hot plate, so that it must inhale 
the fumes of the turpentine. Do not suffocate the bird, and repeat the 
application daily until the gaping ceases. 
Ducks not Laying (Q.). —Are they old birds? Whether old or 
young, common Ducks rarely lay in winter unless they are very liberally 
| fed. The Aylesbury and Rouen, however, lay in the autumn. 
Rice Meal (T. L.). —We do not know what are its fattening quali¬ 
ties. Have any of our readers used it for feeding pigs ? We will answer 
I the other queries next week. 
Emigration (A Young Gardener). — Do you seriously say that 
| ^6 J l6 is too much for carrying you and your baggage half round the 
world, and feeding you, running all risks, interest for capital sunk in 
the ship, &c. Government aid highly-recommended applicants. Full 
i information may be obtained at the Emigration Office, in London. 
Collodion, for Cuttings (E. C. J.). —This is Gun Cotton dis¬ 
solved in ether. Mr. Low, in a recent communication to the Royal 
Society, says he found it most beneficial to dip the cut end of each cut¬ 
ting, whilst dry, into the Collodion. It keeps out excess of moisture. Of 
131 cuttings so treated, 86 rooted, whilst of 131 without the Collodion 
plaister only 42 rooted. The experiments were tried upon Stove, Green¬ 
house, and Hardy plants. GuttaPercha disolved in naptha would pro¬ 
bably answer the same purpose. 
Oak Slabs for Park Palings. — 31. G. says—“ I want them five 
feet high and three-quarters-of-an inch thick. Where can I procure 
them? have seen them near Mr. Fish’s. I am now in Ireland.” We 
presume you will have no difficulty in getting them from the nearest oak 
forest where they are falling timber. Choose it of the straightest grain, 
and not over old. If the stick should be twelve to eighteen inches 
: through, split it with beetle and wedges into four parts, and then rend 
your slabs in feather-edged style, from one inch on one side to half-an 
inch or less on the other. They then lap over each other, which is 
generally the way they are put up. After rending, they will want a little 
dressing with a sharp axe, to make them more equal, and to remove the 
sap-wood. Such fences will last a very long time. Many make them 
decay by daubing them with paint, or tar, while in a green, unseasoned 
state, thus doing something more than having their trouble and expense 
for nothing. 
Geranium-leaves Spotted (31. L.). —It strikes us that your 
plants have got the spot , from cold and damp; and if the age of the 
leaves does not deceive us, the frost has also paid them a visit. You 
did right in removing the worst at once, and, most likely, all will have to 
go ; though, to keep the plants alive, you had better do so by degrees. 
A higher temperature, say 50° to 55°, and plenty of air in suitable 
weather, will restore them if not too far gone, but it is not easily got rid 
of, as it becomes constitutional if let alone. We cannot say anything 
as to your supposed reasons; for though your writing seems admirable 
at first sight, and many words are extremely plain, there are others 
which, after repeated trials, we have been unable to decipher so as to 
make sense out of them. 
Select Lists of Greenhouse Plants (S. G.). —We think Mr. 
Appleby promised a list some time ago. Such lists have often been 
given, and will, no doubt, be repeated to please you, though they seem 
the driest and most useless things we have had to do with. Do we quite 
understand you that the “more select the list, the better it will be,” 
when the chief reason you assign for obtaining it, is the severe winter 
having killed so many of the plants usually grown in Peacheries and 
Vineries ? Did you want a list for a definite purpose we would at once 
endeavour to supply you, though we repeated an old tale to old readers. 
Very select greenhouse plants are rather more easily lost than those 
usually kept in Vineries, &c. 
Bees rejecting Food (Honey Bee).— Your hives that refuse to take 
the food given them, are, in all probability, notin need of it; but the 
weight will decide. We would, at any rate, induce them by some means 
to take the food. Feed the other hives liberally; give them at least two 
pounds per week. Send a stamped directed envelope to J. H. Payne. 
Esq., Bury St. Edmunds, and some seed of Leucuntha will be inclosed 
to you. 
Golden Pheasants (F. W .).—For hatching and rearing these 
employ Bantams, or a small breed of White Silk Fowls. The latter are 
not to be surpassed for this purpose.—W. 
Pullet Dying on Nest (E.). —The pullet forwarded died of 
apoplexy, the predisposing cause being extreme fatness ; a dietary con¬ 
sisting in great part of Indian corn meal, and pea meal, &c., is far too 
fattening and stimulating for fowls kept in an aviary. Indian corn con¬ 
tains, on the average, three times as much fatty material as barley, and is 
not, therefore, if given abundantly, a good food for laying hens, especially 
as it is not very rich in those flesh-forming materials out of which eggs 
are formed.—W. B. Tegetmeier. 
Hogg’s Edging Tiles (An Amateur). —We have received a repost 
from Mr. G. Townsend, of Fordham, Cambridgeshire, in which he states 
that Hogg’s Edging Tiles, which were laid down in September last, 
“ are as sound, after having endured the late severe frost, as the day 
I they were first put down.” Those which were placed in “ the Society’s 
Garden” were of a different construction, and manufactured of a different 
description of clay from those which are referred to above. 
CALENDAR FOR MARCH. 
FLOWER-GARDEN. 
Annuals (Tender), such as the Portuluccas, Mesembryanthemums, 
Lobelias, &c., sow, b.; (Hardy), sow on dry borders, b. and c.; finish 
transplanting autumn-sown annuals. Biennials, sow, e. Climbers, 
half-hardy, as Maurandya, Lophospermum, &e., pot and train, 1>., to 
have strong for next May planting. Cuttings ; push on the propagation 
of cuttings, and transplant them as fast as they root. Cuttings from 
Hose prunings, plant in the shade. Dahlias, sow, and force old roots 
for stock, b. Dress every part within the boundary as early as you can. i 
Edgings of all sorts finish otf as early as possible. All Evergreens ■ 
transplanted since last August may have liquid-manure this month, and 
throughout the season after this mild winter. Flowers, pick off from 
plants you want cuttings from, b. Finish all the Planting and Spring 
Pruning of trees and shrubs, and all necessary alterations, as soon as 
the weather will permit. Grass, and white and small yellow Clover 
Seed, sow with a liberal hand over patchy grass ; keep the grass in 
clcap, trim order, and roll it three times this month, and oftener if you 
can. Gravel, clean, roll, and relay. Hand-glasses are the best of all 
aids to rear half-hardy, and such other annuals as come up weakly at 
first; place them on s warm sheltered aspect. Hoeing: never hoe a 
border ill March, for fear of killing something which you cannot see. 
Hotbeds are only good helps to those who can well manage them for 
the flower-garden ; keep them up to 70°, and steady. Hyacinths, and 
other Bulbs, as soon as they appear, stir the beds, and lighten the soil 
round the plants: and plant spring Gladioli at once. Perennials, 
with the exception of long fleshy-rooted ones, ought to be removed— 
divided, if necessary—and reebive some fresh soil, or be planted in new 
situations, at least every third season ; see to this rule, and treat one- 
third of each family, every February and March, according to it. Pro¬ 
tection is necessary for almost all young things of a tender nature this 
month. Rakes, lock them up, b.; if your man cannot dress a border 
without a rake, tell him he must learn. Roses, finish pruning, b., except, 
perhaps, a few strong ones may be left unpruned till April, to bloom 
later; but this plan is radically bad and not necessary now with our 
perpetuals. Seeds, do not sow a packet of rare seeds in one pot only, 
sow in two or three pots, to provide against accident to one. Seedlings 
in heat, transplant as soon as you can handle them. Stakes ; see if 
you have a stock on hand for your Dahlias, Hollyhocks, and all other 
plants requiring them next summer, and see that all the old ties and 
rotten stakes are out of the rosary. Sweet Briar, sown in a single 
row, will grow and make a hedge in such poor soil as would kill other 
roses. Turf, lay. D. Beaton. 
FRUIT-FORCING. 
| 'Air, increase as forcing proceeds. Aphides, destroy. Cucumbers, 
in forcing-house, apply liquid-manure, train and stop when long enough ; 
in frames, turn and remove linings weekly, stop frequently; temp, 65 ° 
to 75°. Cherries, use moderation; keep a humid air; temp., 50° to 
60°, artificialheat; ventilate freely. Figs, much as Peaches ,- keep the root 
moist; bottom warmth benefits them. Liquid Manure, apply to 
active growths where strength is required. Leaves of all fruits keep 
clean. Moisture (Air), supply liberally; root moisture regularly, but 
according to need. Mildew, beware of; see Sulphur. Peaches and 
Nectarines, keep a free atmosphere; disbud and train; temp., 55 ° 
night, 65° to 70° day.. Pines, liberal heat and moisture to rising or 
swelling fruit; successions, re-arrange and increase temperature. Red 
Spider, see Sulphur. Strawberries, introduce successions, water 
liberally, keep near the air and light. Melons, bottom-heat 75 ° to 80°, 
air-heat 70° to 80°; thin the Vine well. Sulphur, apply at least 
monthly in all structures. Temperature, allow 8 ° or 10 ° advance in 
heat during sunshine. Vermin, entrap. Vines, early-train, stop, thin 
berries, tie shoulders; do not forget the sulphur. Watering, attend 
to daily. K. Errington. 
FRUIT-GARDEN. 
Apricots, protect; search for the eggs of the Red-bar Moth, like 
parsnip seeds, and dotted. Apples, cleanse, brine and soft soap, 
succeeded by spirits of turpentine in the retreats of the American blight. 
Blossoms, retard and protect. Bush Fruit, still plant or top-dress. 
Figs, uncover, prune at end. Grafting, proceed with. Hoeing. 
practice on foul borders. Nuts, hang male catkins among the female 
blossoms. Planting of all kinds instantly bring to a close. Peaches 
and Nectarines, fiDish training, retard and protect; dress the walls 
with sulphur paint. Raspberries, still plant, prune, stake, and top- 
dress. Root-prun l ng may still be done. Suckers, destroy. Straw¬ 
berries, spring-dress; transplant. Standards, stake. Stocks, 
plant or sow seeds. Trellisses, dress and protect. Vines, plant at 
end. Walnuts may be planted still. In grafting, proceed according 
to the degree of development of the bud, taking each kind the moment 
the buds actually begin to expand. R. Errington. 
GREENHOUSE. 
A i r, admit in fine weather, when the outside temperature is above 35°; 
a shut house is better than cold currents and night fires ; in foggy 
weather, however, light a fire, to clear and dry the atmosphere. Bulbs 
and Tuberous roots, introduce, and water more freely; start the various 
kinds of Achimenes, Gesnera, and Gloxinia, in hotbed ; seeds of the 
latter, sown now, will give nice little flowering plants for the autumn and 
winter, if you can give them heat. Calceolarias and Cinerarias, 
water more freely; give manure water to those flowering and showing 
their flower-stalks; shade in sunny weather; shift for succession 
Camellias and Azaleas, water more plentifully when in bloom ; keep 
those intended for late blooming as cool and shaded as possible, so that 
frost does not injure them. Diosma, Epacris, Heaths, give abun¬ 
dance of air when growing and flowering; Prune freely when done 
flowering, and keep close until they begin to grow, when the roots had 
better be examined. Now and afterwards, for a couple of months, will 
be a good time for inserting cuttings. Habrotiiamnus elegans is 
now a pretty object, grown in a pot, or trained against a pillar. Hot¬ 
beds, preparefor Bowing Primula seeds, and any other desirable green¬ 
house plants, raising cuttings, sowing seeds, or striking cuttings of the 
commoner sorts for stocks on which to inarch or graft Correas,‘Oranges, 
Camellias, &c.; the grafting of such plants is easily effected in such a 
sweet, moist hotbed, and does away with much of the trouble of inarch- 
