510 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
March 30. 
Bedding-out Geraniums in Pots (C. A'.).—There is no rule for 
the size of pots so used. Small plants in small pots, say No. 48 ; good- 
sized plants in No. 32 pots; and larger plants in pots proportionably 
large. Pots which would do for the plants in the greenhouse will do for 
them in the beds. 
Planting two Beds where Bulbs are (Solon).— Yes; Stimulus 
and Heartsease may be planted between the Tulips and Narcissus. It 
is no bad idea. To the second query : No. How could you be so cruel 
as to kill such beautiful Hepaticas by cutting;-off their leaves to make 
loom tor seeds, louch not a leaf of them. We never saw a really blue 
I olyanthus ; a grey violet colour is not uncommon among them, but we 
never heard of a true blue. Such a self is worth something. 
White Feathers in Buff Shanghaks and Black Polands 
(Amicus Galli). A small portion of the primary wing-feathers of the 
bitjf and cinnamon Shanghaes is occasionally marked with white; but 
from the position in which the wing is carried, such markings rarely 
meet the eye, unless the bird is handled for the examination. As a gene¬ 
ral rule, any white feathers visible on a buff, cinnamon, or partridge- 
coloured Shanghae are highly objectionable. The white-crested Black 
1 oland should not have a single white feather, the top-knot alone ex¬ 
cepted. In giving this opinion, however, we are fullv aware that the 
presence of white on the tail has not always been held to disqualify, but 
there appears no reason why the presence of other colours should be any 
more tolerable in this instance than in Spanish, Black Shanghaes, or 
Black Bantams. As to the top-knot itself, we have never j r et seen an 
‘ untrimmed” bird without black feathers at the base above the nostrils. 
March as a Hatching-time (Ibid).— March is a good month for 
hatching any variety of fowls, though, wherever exhibition at the summer 
shows is contemplated, an earlier period is chosen. An April-hatched 
bird however, will probably, by November, be fully equal, in all points, 
to those that have preceded it in the same jear. 
Mother for Silver-spangled Hamburgiis (Ibid).— A large 
Shanghae hen would be too heavy a mother for Silver-spangled Ham¬ 
burgh chickens, and the latter, being less sturdy and independent in their 
chiclcenhood than the former race, would require longer maternal super¬ 
intendence than the Shanghae dame would probably deign to afford 
them.—W. 
\\ kiting on Zinc Labels (-).—Scrub them bright with coarse 
sand-paper, and write on them immediately, by the aid of a quill pen, 
with the following ink:—1 drachm of powdered verdigris (acetate of 
copper); 1 drachm of powdered sal ammoniac (muriate of ammonia), 
^ drachm of lamp back; 10 drachms of water. Mix them together in a 
two-ounce phial, and shake it every time before using. It is ready for 
use as soon as the verdigris and sal ammoniac are dissolved. 
Webs on Rose-siioots ( H. Helyar).— These webs, which draw 
together the leaves and buds of Roses, are formed by the caterpillar of a 
very small moth, called Tnrtrix Bergmunniuna and Argyrotoza Berg- 
munnianu by different entomologists. No mode of destroying the cater¬ 
pillars has been found out, except the tedious one of hand-picking. Try 
what dipping and stirring the shoots in white Hellebore powder will do. 
We know of no precautions for preventing the eggs being laid upon the i 
hushes by the moths. 
Feathers palling off (J. Brothers).—' The feathers falling off as 
described, we think is only the usual spring moult. Keep the fowls liber¬ 
ally and give them also plenty of green food, and the feathers will return, 
in all probability, with the warm weather. We do not understand from 
your note that there are any wounds or ulcers about your fowls. 
Silver Hamburgh Fowls (Cold Brafield).— The Spangled are ! 
larger and rather hardier than the Pencilled. In other respects, we con- 
sider them of equal merit. You will see their eggs advertized in our 
columns. 
Food for young Chickens (B. P. T.)-We have recently given 
directions for this at p. 431. 
Broody Hen (J. G. B. L.) —It is cruel and ineffectual dipping a 
hen into cold water to cure her of wishing to sit. She requires a ces¬ 
sation from egg-producing, and ought to have it. If we do not wish 
such a hen to have chickens, we let her remain on her nest for ten days, 
and then shut her up for about the same time in an outhouse, without 
straw. This generally is sufficient for her. 
Glass for Greenhouse (W. O.D.).—We should use the ribbed 
glass. The Cottage Gardener’s Dictionary will give you the guidance 
you require. 
Sea Weeds (Bessie).— Dr. Harvey’s work is an admirable one; the 
price about seven guineas. The figures are all coloured. Dr. Lands- 
borough’s “ Popular History of British Sea Weeds ” might suit vou 
Its price is half a guinea. The Cottage Gardener’s Dictionary is oiie of 
the most useful hooks we know. Its price, 8s. Cd. 
Perns (A. C. Close), “Can you oblige many of your subscribers by 
inviting cultivators of Ferns to advertise lists of such plants in vour 
columns. One knows not where to apply.” This is from a clerical 
correspondent, and we know that to advertise Ferns and their prices is 
very desirable for all parties. There is a growing taste for them. 
Black Malays. — W. Lort, Esq., Great Heath, near Tenbury, would 
be glad to hear from M. F. G. relative to those birds. Ollier queries 
next week. 
Hardy Border Plants (IF. Robertson).— Your clever countryman 
will continue liis essays on F.vergreens and other hardy border plants. 
Kggs joined together (A. Watts). —Whenever a hen’s egg system 
becomes diseased the phenomena are very various. We never heard 
before of two soft eggs united together being laid, hut we have seen one 
egg- pinched into lengths like links of sausages. Give her a pill of one 
grain calomel and one-twelfth grain tartar emetic every second day for a 
week; and give her nothing but soft food, and plenty of green meat. 
Keep her in a cool dry place. 
Name of Plant (Rev. R. til. E.). —The Holly-leaved Berherrv, Ber - 
orris aquifolia , the Mahonia aquifotia , as it was called at one time. 
Lameness in Sn ANGnAES (G.S. B.).—It is probable that the lameness 
in this case arises front an abscess under the dense fibrous structures of 
the toe. In this case, a free longitudinal incision would afford great and 
immediate relief, and would readily heal in the course of a few days. It 
is important that the incision should not be made across the toe, as the 
tendons might, in that case, he cut across,—W. B. T. 
CALENDAR FOR APRIL. 
ORCHARD AND FRUIT GARDEN. 
Apples, cleanse from blight; protect blossoms. Apricots, protect 
with care. Cherries, finish training. Currants, finish dressing. 
Damsons may yet he planted; thin out the crowded spray in the in¬ 
terior. Figs, remove all covering; prune at the end. Grafting, see 
that the clay is safe, and rub off wild spray betimes. Goosf.berries, 
beware of the Caterpillar. Insects, check vigorously early. Mul¬ 
berries may be planted. Nectarines, see Peaches. Plums, finish 
pruning those which blossom on the young wood. Pears, as Plums: 
protect blossoms. Peaches, use the cleansing mixture named in former 
calendars; still protect, and disbud at the end. Pruning of all fruit- 
trees may still he done, if neglected at proper time. Raspberries, get 
tied if not done; top-dress. Strawberries, spring-dress if delayed. 
Staking, attend to. Training, complete in all fruits. Walnuts 
may yet be planted. Vines, train and plant. Planting of all kinds 
may yet be done, implying, of course, neglect or omission at the best 
period. But every winter arrear must he brought to a close forthwith. 
R. Errington. 
FRUIT-FORCING. 
Air-giving, attend regularly to, avoiding cold draughts, Bottom- 
warmths renew ; 75° to 80° are safe points. Cucumbers, attend closely ; 
stop often ; use liquid-manure, and sustain a warm and moist air—70° to’ 
85 . Chilies and the Capsicums, pot off and hasten. Cherries, 
avoid strong heat; keep a moist air. Fires, moderate, according to 
season ; let solar heat do its work. Figs, much as Peaches , as to tem¬ 
perature ; water frequently, and pinch young wood. Floors, wash down 
frequently. Grapes, ventilate freely where ripening; remove crowded 
laterals ; succession crops, follow up the usual routine of disbudding, 
stopping, training, and thinning. Insects, exterminate—Aphides by 
tobacco, Red Spider by sulphur. Kidney Beans, apply liquid-manure 
and get in successions. Melons, keep thin in bine early, set blossoms, 
and stop and train weekly; provide successions. Nectarines, as 
Peaches; pinching-off waste or watery shoots, remember. Peaches 
train, and top thin fruit. Use the syringe freely, and a free ventilation’. 
Shading use occasionally in case of need. Syringe, do not lay it by 
use it frequently; it is a capital cleanser, and an enemy to insects. 
Straw'berries, attend to daily, water liberally, and give abundance of 
air, keeping down runners. Tomatoes, cool down ready for planting-out 
in the second week of May. V ines, attend well to in the ordinary routine 
of stopping, training, and herry-tliinning ; pray do not leave extra berries 
tor a rubbishy tart or two. Watering must be a daily affair now 
every thing examined, Rl Errington. ’ 
ORCHID HOUSE, 
Air.— The days are now considerably longer, and the sun has more 
power, consequently more air will be required to keep the heat moderate. 
Baskets, continue to renew, if not finished last month; dip them in 
tepid water once a week; put in baskets plants to ornament the house, 
such’as JEschynanthus , Achimenes, Hoya bella, Aguhnylu staminea, and 
any other drooping freely-flowering plants. Block's, syringe daily. 
Dendrobiums, and other plants in flower, remove into a cooler house; 
they will then last much longer in flower, hut as soon as the bloom is 
over, return them into the warm house to finish their annual growth. 
Heat.— As the plants will now he growing freely, thev require the maxi¬ 
mum of heat; in the Indian house, 75° to 90° by day, 65° to 70° bv 
night; the Mexican house should be 10° lower. Insects will now 
multiply rapidly; use every means to extirpate them, and prevent their 
increase. Potting, continue to all such as require it; the grand rule is 
to pot orchids as soon as new growths are apparent. Syringe freely in 
dull weather in the mornings only, but during sunny weather, syringe in 
the evenings also, shutting up the houses close previously to syringing; 
a moist growing atmosphere will be the consequence. Water.— As the [ 
growths advance, increase the quantity of water at the root; dash it freely 
upon the platforms, w r alks, and walls daily, to keep up a large amount of I 
atmospheric moisture. t. Appleby. I 
PLANT STOVE. 
Acuimenes, re-pot and divide, if required, the first potted batch; 
specimens may now he made, by placing several plants in a large shallow 
pot in leaf mould, chopped sphagnum, and turfy loam. TEsciiynan- 
tiius, pot and train to a globular trellis; these make fine showy plants. 
Air, give freely on all favourable occasions. Amaryllises, pot and 
plunge in a bark-bed in a pit, to start them into flower and growth. 
Bark, renew, by silting the old bark, removing the fine particles that 
pass through the sieve, keeping the rough in the pit, and adding sufficient 
fresh hark to raise it a little higher than the level; do not plunge the 
plants till the heat is moderated. Climbers, dress, tie, and train 
neatly. Heat.— Keep up a brisk heat by day, but more moderate during 
the night. Ixoras, attend to specimens of, and tie them out so as to form 
dense handsome bushes. Moisture, give to the air of the house by 
dashing water about upon the floors, walls, and hot-water pipes. Pot¬ 
ting, general; finish the first early in the month. Red Spider, and all 
other insects, diligently destroy; wash the flues or pipes with water and 
sulphur mixed together; lay it on with a whitewash brush, Water, 
l 
