72 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
April 22. 
cuttings, etc., so as to keep my flower-garden continually 
supplied with flowers. And I also think that it would he 
convenient to winter my plants in pots, and bring on 11 vaoinths, 
Anemones, &c., early and in succession.—C. 11.” 
[There can be no question but that you may do as you 
propose with much advantage for forcing purposes. Even 
a pit without walls at all, and the frame standing above the 
ground level, would yield more heat than if the fermenting 
material was all above ground. A continuous heat, however, 
can only he maintained where there is a continuous fermenta¬ 
tion in the decomposing matter. You will have no difficulty 
in raising annuals, <&c., and in striking cuttings in spring 
for the flower garden, provided your fermenting matter is 
sweet, or so covered that the injurious steams will not reach 
them. It would also do well for bringing on Hyacinths; but, 
if at all hot, would be too warm for Anemones. For propa¬ 
gating flower-garden plants in the autumn, cold frames 
would answer equally well, and better, as there is plenty of 
heat in the earth and in the atmosphere. For keeping 
bedding plants in winter, nothing is worse than these sunk 
dung-pits; but you could have a raised stage of boards. 
See an article lately on this subject partly by Mr. Fish. 
We do not clearly understand about putting out your pots in 
the ground. In rich, damp soils, Geraniums are better 
turned out, pots and all; but most plants do best when 
planted out without pots, about the 20th of May. If we do 
not meet your case, write again.] 
RETARDING THE BLOOMING OF 
, PELARGONIUMS. 
“ Will you oblige a Subscriber by informing her whether 
it is possible to retard the flowering of Geraniums till the 
end of August? Would they re-flower if the first buds were 
taken off?—A Bird of Passage away all Summer." 
[The attempt to accomplish that which is here asked 
about has been made a tliouaand times, and failed as often ; 
yet many kinds of Geraniums flower in September, after 
flowering in June and part of July, then rested, out-of-doors , 
without being cut down. Gauntlet, Priori/ Queen, Negress, 
and all of tliat habit, seldom fail to bloom a second time, 
after a month’s rest; and, no doubt, such kinds might be made 
to flower better, by a course of management different from 
that which ensures fine blooming ; but that course is yet to 
he learned, as far as we know. At all events, you cannot, by 
cutting off the blossoms, make them bloom out of time.] 
THE WALTONIAN PROPAGATING CASE. 
“ Reading the interesting article on the Waltonian Pro/ia- 
g a ting Case in The Cottage Gardener, urges me to try ; 
hut my utter ignorance of the management of any artificial 
means of propagating, induces me to write to you, to beg 
the favour of your asking Mr. Beaton to give an article on 
the mere rudiments of propagating by artificial means, par¬ 
ticularly in reference to the “Waltonian Case.” It occurs to 
nie, that the “ Waltonian Case” will not he very useful, except 
I in connection with a greenhouse.— Caroline Hodson." 
[Although a greenhouse is the best place for a Waltonian 
Case, you may work it in doors in any room facing the sun. 
Mr. IV alton has learned to strike cuttings, and to rear seed 
in the case. Mrs. West and her maid have just turned out 
a large collection of hardy annuals, which they have reared 
in one of these Cases, which stood in the shop fronting the 
! north ; that case, is filled again ; and there is another form of 
i the Wardian Case in full operation in Mr. West’s shop, 
i and “ hundreds come to see it.” There is no difference in 
the way of managing the cuttings, seeds, or plants, from that 
followed in a common hotbed; but we shall write a full 
article about it towards the end of the propagating season. 
We watch it now, from day to day, hut we cannot yet make 
out any difference between it and a “ tank bed,” except the 
j tidyness, which is altogether in favour of the Waltonian 
Case.—D. B.] 
TO CORRESPONDENTS. 
Mushroom-bed failing (7Je». L. IK. J.).—If you had told us how 
you proceeded, we should have been able better to tell you all about it. 
Our impression is, that your bed is too cold and too dry. Mushrooms 
care but little about air. When the spawn is working freely, t.hc inside | 
of the bed will be from 75°, though the atmospheric temperature should ; 
be only from 50 Q to 55°; the latter being a good average for Mushrooms. | 
Supposing, as you say, that your spawn has worked, ami the bed is | 
dryish, make a 1 .umber of small holes with a pointed stick, water with 
soft-water at 75°, cover with an inch of soft bay, and reduce it and wholly 
uncover as the Mushrooms appear. If this does not meet your case, 
write aeain, and we will give an epitome of culture, as few crops are 
more certain, if properly attended to. 
Daphne and Strelitzia ( B . C.). —The treatment of the Daphne 
and the Strelitzia were given a few weeks ago. When done flowering, 
keep the Daphne close and warm to encourage growth, and place it in a 
cold pit, or out-of-doors, in August and September. The greenhouse 
will be too cold for the Strelitzia in winter; if. should have a temperature 
of from 50° to 55°. We can form little idea of what the plant is you 
speak of. Is it an tledychium ? You can do no harm in curtailing the | 
roots. 
Seeds of CEnotiiera macrocarpa (C. M. D .).—Onr correspondent l 
says—** Mr. Beaton has lately stated that the (Enothera macrocarpa 
will not come from seeds. I beg to say that I sowed some three or four 
in the open ground a few years ago, of which one, at least, vegetated and 
lived.”— lncurvillea sinensis is now generally known as Tccuma grandi - 
flora. 
Ferns (F. J.).—In general, they succeed best uncovered with glass; j 
but wherever kept they require air, and moisture, and shade. They vary j 
much as to the heat they need. 
Leaves of Hibiscus and Clerohendron {Constant Reader ).—The 
leaves of your plants seem to have been infested with the Green Fly or 
Aphis. From the filthy state of the leaves sent, which were covered with 
the excrement, &c., of such creatures, we should say your house or 
houses need a good tobacco fumigation. This should be done on a calm 
evening, having the house well closed for the night. After this, all such 
filthy-leaved plants should be thoroughly cleansed with water by the aid 
of a small brush or a bit of sponge, and the use of the syringe. Such 
jobs should be performed on wet days or evenings. 
Various (A Devonshire Subscriber). — CavendisJiia nobilis was the 
best new plant in Matthew’s specimens, which he gathered on the Cor¬ 
dilleras of Peru, in the country of the Cinchonas. It was named after 
the present Duke of Devonshire. It is related to Thibaudia and the new 
Ceratostema, in the order of Cranberries (Vacciniaceae). It is a bush 
much like a Rhododendron, the flowers come in heads at the ends of the 
branches (capitate racemes); each flower is a tube an inch long, and is 
of the most vivid crimson, just fitted for a corner in your terrace garden. 
Mr. Beaton knows nothing more than he said about the new R ho tan 
Rhododendrons , but he will inquire in the course of the summer. There 
was some fault or other about the bulb or root-stock of your gigantic 
Lily ; no plant grows more freely ; but you ought not to keep it in the 
conservatory in South Devon, where it will be more at home in the open 
air than the Sikkim Rhododendrons. As to the Javanicum , alas, for 
public instructors ! Have you forgotten our descriptions of the first 
crosses from that strain ? Rhododendron Juvanicum, and Jasminiflorum, 
and all the sections that have yet been tried, as far as we know, cross as 
freely as Crucifers. Eucharis grandiflora is, indeed, a fine thing when 
well done, but it will not cross with an Amaryllis or a Hippeastrum; it 
is too near the Hoop Petticoat for that. It belongs to the Coronet section 
of the order. If it will cross with any neighbour at all it will be with the 
Choretis, or some kind or form of Hymenocallis ; it is a perfectly legiti¬ 
mate genus, however. Amaryllis blanda is in England, and near London, 
with an amateur ; it is nearly related to the Bella Donna , and is a very 
scarce plant indeed. If Mr. Linden has found out the true one he ought 
to send a head of flowers of it to be exhibited in London next October 
or November. 
Cost of sending Trees to Australia (An Enquirer) It would 
be no guide to state what they cost Mr. Beaton. The Rural Magazine 
is published at Sydney. 
Apricoc Seedlings (T. M. IV ,).—Turn them out at once under a 
south wall. 
Sunflower Sowing (A Reader).— Sow now; any good loam will 
suit it. Write to any seedsman who advertizes in our columns. You 
might grow Tomatoes as you suggest, but they will require careful 
culture. 
Grass for Lawn (N. M. G.). —You ask for ** the best Grass” for a 
lawn on a heavy soil, and as this query confines us to one species, we j 
answer, Cynosurus cristatus (Crested Dog’s Tail). We do not like 
Achillea millefolia for lawns ; but far prefer the White Clover. 
Ants ( G . Baker). —Disturb their haunts, and cover these with gas-lime. 
Culture of Pleurotiiallis saurocepiiala (R. P.). —The genus 
Pleurothullis contains a great number of small-growing Orchids, mostly 
very uninteresting. They are natives of the Brazils, and other warm 
parts of the southern division of America. Some few are found in the 
West India Islands. They arc grown on the branches of trees, and, 
therefore, thrive best on blocks of wood. The species you mention 
(Pleurothallis saurocephalu) is, perhaps, the most curious of the whole 
tribe. The column has much the appearance of a lizard’s head—hence its ! 
specific name. Procure an Oak block, and tic with copper-wire the plant : 
to it, wrapping a little green moss round the block also with the copper- 
wire; hang it up to the roof, and, whilst growing, syringe it gently .every 
day; keep the air moist also, and when the growth is completed, give 
less water and heat till the growing season returns. By such a course 
of management your plant will thrive and flower when strong enough. 
It may be increased by division, treating the divided parts exactly in the 
same manner. 
Raising the Polyanthus from Seed (E. H. £.).—’There arc two 
methods of raising the Polyanthus from seeds. The first is to prepare 
a border in the open air; the soil should be excavated, laid in a heap, if 
of good average quality, and mixed with well-decayed leaves, or very 
rotten dung. Whilst this is being mixed, place a thin layer of littery 
stable dung at the bottom of the border ; then throw in again the mixed 
soil, and, after levelling it, sow the seeds upon it rather thinly, cover 
lightly, say an eight.h-of-inch, and pat the covering gently down with a 
rake. If the weather should prove dry, water lightly every evening. 
Unless the plants come up very thick, they may remain in this border 
till they flower the following year; then select the best, and cither throw I 
