172 THE COTTAGE GARDENER AND COUNTRY 
blossom freely, and the colours of them. I want them to 
(rail up wire stands in the house. Some of the stands are. 
fan-shaped, others round. 
“ I have a bed of the Calyslegia pubescens, mentioned in 
The Cottage Gardener of July Urd. Is it a rare flower ? 
It is now in full blossom, but does not make show enough 
for a border by itself. It does not seem to require any 
attention, and stands a winter out-of-doors, though in rather 
a damp situation. —Sibyl.” 
[The nations of the earth will learn wisdom ere individuals 
will learn to tell us what they really do want, and such want 
of clear detail puts us to a considerable weekly expense. 
Do you need a list for a hothouse, greenhouse, or dwelling- 
house? We are not Sibyls. 
Calystegia pubescent is not rare, but it requires grad 
attention, as you will find out soon enough. The greatest 
attention will hardly keep its roots from spreading in all 
directions, and its tops from smothering every other plant 
within its reach. It is only worth growing where no other 
plant would—say, in front of rough shrubberies in large 
masses, and to be allowed to insinuate itself among the 
branches like the rest of the family. How odd it is that 
public taste has not yet been called to the single form of 
this plant, which is really a fine thing.] 
DIVISION FENCE OF ROSES. 
“ I wish to make a wire fence between two portions of my 
garden, and train some Roses along the fence. Could The 
Cottage Gardener advise me which kind would be most 
suitable both for screening the portion 1 wish separated, 
and also continuing green in winter? Does the Mosa semper- 
vircus stand the frost sufficiently? and if so, which kinds 
are best? Would Felicile Perpetuelle or Myrianthcs do?— 
Aldford Rectory.” 
[Both the Perpetuelle and Myrianthcs are well suited for 
your purpose, and add Princess Maria and Princess Louisa 
to them, and you have the best of the Sempervirens; and if 
you plant a row of Gloire cle llosamene on its own roots, to 
stand between the climbing ones, but in the same line, and 
a row of the Malmaisuu Rose in front of all, and to be cut 
down to the surface of the ground every second year, and 
the llosamene the same every third year, you will have 
the best division line of Roses in that part of the country. 
Let the ground be trenched full three feet deep and four 
feet wide, when the weather is very dry next month, and in 
October have it heavily dunged and dug over again, the 
object being to get the Roses to start with full vigour the 
first season, and see that none of the plants were ever in pots. 
If they were you will be disappointed after all you can do.] 
ROSES ON A WALL. 
“ I have a wall facing east, about eight feet high, covered 
with Roses, but they are not satisfactory; they are straggling 
and dirty, and do not cover the wall as they ought. Will 
you kindly tell me how to make a wall gay and beautiful 
with Roses? I live in Lancashire, where our climate is 
rather against us, but 1 am sure glorious Roses might be 
grown here, if only one knew how.— Maria.” 
[The secret of growing Roses against a wall might be 
packed in a lady’s thimble. A two feet deep border of 
strong loam, four or five feet wide, to be as rich as rotten 
dung can make it; the border to bo thoroughly' soaked 
with soft pond-water twice a week in dry weather, and v’hen 
the Roses are in bloom, to keep them thin in the branches, 
as if they were Peach-trees, and to play the water-engine 
against them as for a house on fire, from the first appear¬ 
ance of insects till no more come. There is a reason for 
everything under the sun, and the reason for insects attack¬ 
ing Roses in general, and those on walls more particularly, 
is from too much dryness at the roots, causing the juices to 
be more palatable through the action of the leaves.] 
GERANIUM CUTTINGS.—SAND FOR POTTING. 
“ Mr. Beaton says in The Cottage Gardener (Vol. VI., 
page 148), that ‘ all Geranium cuttiugs (to the end of July 
j at least) do better planted out in the open ground, and full 
GENTLEMAN’S COMPANION.— August 19, 1850. 
in the sun, and that it is a great mistake to consider Fancy 
Geraniums more delicate or less strong than the. old sorts.’ 
In the fourth volume, page 214, he says, the best way is to 
‘ put the cuttings under a north wall,’ still in the open air ; 
and in the Dictionary it is desired to cover and shade 
them. I am about putting out my cuttings, and, being so 
close to the end of July, should be very glad to know by 
what directions I should go. 
“ Will you also kindly tell me what is meant by ‘ silver 
sand,’ so much recommended ? I can get sea sand, or sand 
from a common gvavel-pit, or what is called rabbit sand from 
dry banks. Are any of these silver sand? or will they answer 
for cuttings? Is sea sand good for flowers? What quantity 
and strength of guano-water ought I to give my autumnal 
Roses?— Jane.” 
[The reason why Mr. Beaton recommended behind a 
wall for cuttings of Fancy Pelargoniums in Vol. IV., was, that 
they were new to him then, and, consequently, that he did 
not know so much about them as he now does. The reason 
for what the Dictionary says is this—that shading is the 
surest way to save them, but it does not follow that it is the 
best way for the plants next winter. Mr. Beaton tells us 
that he never shades a Geranium cutting in the autumn, 
and that he puts them in the open air till the end of August, 
as being the best way for them, and the least trouble to 
himself. 
Any sand which is as white as silver plate or coin is 
called silver sand, but, in nine cases out of ten, any gritty 
sand or “ sharp ” sand from a pit will do, and so will sea 
sand for mixing with earth out-of-doors and out of pots. 
It is not safe to mix sea sand for many pot-flowers, but 
some like it better than silver sand. Guano is only fit 
to be used by cautious gardeners; the “quantity” and the 
“ strength ” no one can tell without a chemical analysis.] 
FLOWERS OF BRUGMANSIA SUAVEOLENS 
DECAYING. 
“ I have a fine plant of Brttgmansia suaveolens in my green¬ 
house, which has borne several very large flowers, but the 
inner tube does not come down as it ought. After the first 
tube attaining its full size I observed the inner one folded 
up, as it were, in the throat of the first; but instead of 
elongating and showing the stamens, the flower commenced 
damping off in the tube; and on cutting it open the inner 
tube appeared quite rotten ; consequently, the flowers only 
lasted about three days, and were not nearly so fragrant as 
I expected. The greenhouse had been closed at night, and 
full of moist air, the gardener thinking this would benefit 
the plants ; but I have had all the lights left open lately, 
and also had a pan removed which I found had been placed 
under the Brugmansia. I fancy it may not get sufficient 
sun, a blind being over the greenhouse all the middle of 
the day. I have a glass verandah open to the south: would 
that suit it better? —Flora.” 
[Your glass verandah open to the south would suit the 
Brugmansia better than a shaded, moist greenhouse; but 
you must choose a dull day for removing it. The more sun 
it has the better it will flower ; but it will be a rare drinker, 
and short commons will cause the flowers to drop. We 
think the shade and the damp were too much for it. At 
such seasons as the present greenhouses are left open night 
and day. Of course, if your gardener had stove or tropical 
plants there he wished to grow, his treatment was quite 
correct, and so it would be for even greenhouse plants if 
mere growth or elongation, instead of flowering, were the 
object. In the ease mentioned we consider your judgment 
quite correct. We have not at present the Suaveolens, but 
we have the double ( Knightii , we believe) blooming nicely, 
planted in the open air, and 13. lutcea and atro-sanguinea 
beside it. Even planted out they must have the water-pail 
in hot weather pretty frequently.] 
TO CORRESPONDENTS. 
Vines and Pines together (An Amateur ).—In another year, we 
would advise, in addition to washing the Vine stems with a paint, of 
which sulphur tonus a part, to paiut the pipes frequently, after forcing 
has commenced, with flowers of sulphur and water, and to give plenty of 
