THE COTTAGE GARDENER AND COUNTRY GENTLEMAN’S COMPANION.— September 2,1856. 399 
September, and water curtailed as the days shorten. In 
winter any out-of-the-way place below a stage will suit 
the plants, provided the temperature is not often below 
45°, and the soil is as dry as will prevent the shoots 
shrivelling. All the leaves will have fallen in winter 
under this treatment, and part of the points of the 
shoots may be removed. In spring they should receive 
their final pruning hack within a few buds of the base 
of last year’s shoots; and when placed in heat and 
moisture, and supplied with manure-water at times, the 
youug shoots will grow vigorously, and more light and 
air being given as they progress, they will produce their 
rich massive panicles of bloom. 
Medinilla magnifica. —This most magnificent of the 
family will now he over in most places. The treatment 
has several times been given. It is hardly possible to 
give it too much heat and moisture in spring; as the 
shoots extend give more air and sunlight; when in 
bloom keep the atmosphere about the plant drier, and 
allow it comparative rest and an open position in winter. 
The other species are easier grown. 
Physianthus. —A whitish-leaved, white-flowered, As- 
clepiad-lookiug plant, climbing freely, and producing 
flowers and large seed-vessels in abundance. When 
plauted out against a pillar in a cool stove, it will grow 
freely in sandy loam. Requires abundance of water in 
summer, and but little in winter, and to be pretty well 
pruned back every winter or spring. In a greenhouse, 
though warm, it would he safest to remove the foliage 
in November, and prune back in spring. 
Russelia jcjncea and others bloom best in a warm 
greenhouse, after they have been grown vigorously in a 
plant-stove or forcing-house, having been rested com¬ 
paratively dry and cool in winter, the average tempera¬ 
ture at that time ranging from 45° to 55°. When done 
flowering, alike to benefit the plants and save room, a 
portion of the older part of the small, rush-like foliage 
should be removed, to give more room and light to the 
younger shoots that rise from the stool and base, as 
from the small, much-divided points of these branches, 
when well exposed, the myriads of scarlet tubular 
flowers come. It is easily propagated by cuttings, by 
layers, and division of the root in spring. Loam and 
peat suit it well ; but as the plants get to a good size, 
fibry, sandy loam, with a little cow-dung, will grow it to 
perfection. This elegant plant is met with seldomer 
than its many claims to attention demand. Most of 
the other plants mentioned have previously received 
more ample notice. R. Fish. 
SEASONABLE NOTES ON THE CULTURE OF 
FLORISTS’ FLOWERS. 
Auricula. —The plants should have been potted 
in June; but if not done yet.no time should be lost. 
Soil, light loam, rotten cow-dung, and decayed vegetable 
mould in equal parts. Water moderately ; keep clear 
of weeds; look out for slugs and worms, and destroy them. 
Keep the plants a mouth longer behind a low north 
wall or paling. If heavy rains prevail, shelter from 
them with oiled canvass. Stir the soil on the surface 
frequently, to permit air to reach the interior of the soil, 
and to keep down moss and lichens. 
Antirrhinums. —Cuttings may yet be put in of choice 
varieties. Cut down decaying flower-stems and gather 
seeds. Nip off the tops of seedlings, to cause bushy 
plants for next year. 
Carnations. —Unless seed is wished for, all flower- 
stems should now be cut down. If allowed to bloom 
too long, the flowers will be out of character. Layers j 
may yet be made, but this work ought to be done 
early in July. If any layers are rooted, take them up, 
and pot them into five-inch pots in pairs. Any light 
soil not too rich will suit these layers. When potted, 
place the pots under a cold frame, in order to be able to 
shelter them from the sun and wind till they are 
established; then give abundance of air every day, 
drawing off the lights on all fine, dry days. In dark, wet 
weather the mildew will appear. See to this, and check 
its spreading by sprinkling the leaves affected with 
sulphur. Green fly will sometimes appear at this 
season. As the plants are in frames, these insects may 
be easily destroyed by filling the frame with tobacco- 
smoke. 
Chrysanthemums. —These autumn-flowering plants 
will now be in their blooming pots and showing their 
buds. The only care they require is to give them plenty 
of water. Iu very dry weather they will require it twice 
a day. Every Saturday, or any other fixed day, give 
them a good watering with liquid-manure. It is a good 
plan to plunge the pots just up to the rim ; but then 
they should be frequently lifted up, and any roots pro¬ 
jecting through the hole at the bottom of the pot should 
be cut off. If this is not done the plants and flowers 
will flag very much when brought into the greenhouse. 
If the green fly appears, destroy it by dipping the ends 
of the shoots in tobacco-water. Pick off all decaying 
leaves, and stir the surface of the earth in the pots 
frequently, adding a thin layer of rotten dung at the 
time. This will greatly encourage the plants, and cause 
the blooms to open freely and well developed. 
Calceolaria. —These will all be out of bloom now; 
I mean such as are grown in pots. If any are worth 
preserving, now is a good time to propagate them. I 
have seen, lately, some good shrubby varieties, with 
large, well-formed flowers—a consummation long wished 
for. They were then in full flower, whereas all the 
herbaceous varieties were quite out of bloom, and many 
dead from exhaustion. I have no doubt we shall see 
this flower as fashionable as it ever was, now that we 
have got the large flowers of the herbaceous breed on 
shrubby plants. I have said that now is a good time 
for propagating these shrubby varieties. The reason 
for this is because old plants never make such a good 
bloom as young ones, and if the propagation is delayed 
till spring there is not time to get strong plants to 
bloom well that season. Take the cuttings off directly, 
plant them in small pots singly, and place them in a 
frame on a gentle heat. They will root in a month, 
and may then be repotted into a size larger pots, and 
j placed on a shelf in a greenhouse, where they will make 
nice, stocky plants before the spring. 
| Cineraria. —The named varieties of this charming 
spring flower should have been propagated by division 
early last month, and will now be nice little plants in 
00-pots. If you have plenty of room, give them a shift 
into rather larger pots, and place them under glass in a 
cold frame. Seedlings should now be potted off into 
the smallest pots, and placed under glass likewise. To 
grow these plants finely, they should be frequently 
potted, until, finally, they are iu five-inch pots, in which 
they may remain all the winter. They keep most 
healthy in a cold pit, providing they are securely pro¬ 
tected from frost, and kept rather dry in frosty weather. 
The Dahlla. —It has been the practice of some 
writers of late years to decry the beauty of this fine 
autumnal flower, and set up the Hollyhock, as being 
much superior in beauty. I cannot in conscience 
subscribe to this opinion, but am willing to grant that 
both are handsome, and, in conjunction, form a grand 
floral display, such as our grandfathers had no con¬ 
ception of. The Dahlia, independent of its beauty, has 
one undoubted advantage over the Hollyhock, and that 
is the much longer continuance of its bloom. 
At this particular season the culture of the Dahlia 
consists in keeping the branches securely tied to stakes, 
