THE COTTAGE GARDENER AND COUNTRY GENTLEMAN’S COMPANION.— Septembee 80.1856. 479 
• tlie same time, pick off any decayed leaves or any dirt that 
may adhere to the pot, and the frame being secured against 
frost, there is every reason to expect most of the plants 
will live through the winter; at least, hv following this 
plan, the writer has often saved many; but there are some 
which ought to be kept in a drier medium. Scarlet and 
Variegated Geraniums, and Heliotropes, and even Verbenas, 
are worthy a place in some spare room, where they may 
have a little light, a drier air, and just sufficient warmth 
to keep away frost, say 40°. On the other hand, Fuchsia, 
Calceolaria, and Gaillardia, and some other things, take 
no harm from being immured some time, and some good 
results from allowing a sharp frosty air of the afternoon 
preceding hard weather to have access to the frame for 
some time, so as to dry up any moisture that may be 
lurking amongst the leaves. I do not mean they should he 
hard frozen, but just well dried, and if some of them are 
flagging from the apparent want of water so much die 
better; they will all endure their long, dark confinement so 
much the better, and when the time arrives for opening 
them out, be not too hasty in subjecting them to cold 
currents of external air, hut by degrees inure them to it, so 
as to undergo a like treatment again if required. 
The seed of Sea-kale, being larger than Marrowfat Peas, 
does not readily take harm in the ground. Nevertheless, 
there is no advantage in sowing it before February or 
March, and the mode of doing so must be regulated by 
ulterior considerations, whether the plants are intended to 
remain where sown, or takeu up to force when large enough. 
Supposing the latter to be the case, let the ground be 
well trenched in autumn, adding some good manure as well, 
and at the time when Onions are sown, the seed may be 
put in somewhat closer than French Beans are planted, i. e., 
in drills about two feet and a half apart, and the seed about 
an inch or so from each other in the row, taking ewe to 
cover very lightly, and to thin the plants in early summer 
so as to be six or eight inches apart. By this means, and 
the plant being good, roots as large as the best Carrots 
may be had in one season, with crowns calculated to make 
excellent shoots when put into a forcing place, taking care, 
as before directed, that the root is not injured in taking up. 
If, however, a plantation be wanted which is to be 
forced by dung or other fermenting heat without taking up, 
let the same care be taken in trenching, &c., and let the 
i seed be sown in circles of six inches in diameter or so, such 
I circles to be about three feet apart, and when the seed is up 
! the plants may be thinned out to three at each circle ; but 
little farther care is wanted, as the robust character of the 
plant will do all the rest, provided the ground has been 
made good to start it with. 
Another mode, tending to the same purpose as the last, is 
to sow the seed on the bed prepared for it on some nice 
border, and when the plants are about the size that Lettuce 
plants are when planted out, let them be planted where 
wanted, taking care to do this in moist weather, and they 
will not feel their removal. The only requisite is to take 
care the roots are not injured, as they are very brittle; 
but a little shortening at the point may be beneficial rather 
than otherwise, and there is the advantage of having the 
ground occupied with something else, perhaps, in the 
spring months ; or, where it is wet and difficult to cultivate, 
this plan may be advantageously adopted both with this 
plant and also Asparagus.] 
PROPAGATING THE VARIEGATED HYDRANGEA. 
“Having, last spring, bought a small plant of this new 
variety, it has fully carried out its character in its beautiful 
foliage, and by proper compost has grown a fine plant, and 
has thrown some fine shoots nearly as low to the main 
roots as suckers. 
“ Wishing to propagate this attractive variety, which is 
the best and surest way to accomplish the propagation ? 
The young shoots are getting firm. 
“Will the Hydrangea foliage bear exposure to the sun 
and air as well as other variegated plants in summer?— 
M. F.” 
[Small side-shoots a few inches in length strike very 
freely in a little heat. When the shoots, as you say, are 
firm, every two joints will make an excellent cutting, which 
will strike with the heat of a common greenhouse. In fact, 
if you have two buds at each joint, you may split the joint 
in two, and make two cuttings of it, and they will grow 
nicely with the usual encouragement from heat and shade. 
If you can give shade and know how to manage it, you may 
let the leaves remain; but if you succeed, do not flatter 
yourself and astonish your friends that you have raised so 
many plants from leaves, for you have merely got plunts 
from buds. 
The Variegated Hydrangea stands exposure very well, 
but the colour is not so bright as when enjoying a little 
shade.] 
CAPE JASMINE CULTURE. 
“ What soil suits the Cape Jasmine best? 
“ Is the warmth of the greenhouse sufficient to bloom it? 
“After blooming should it be put out of dpors ? 
“ Is it easily affected by frost? 
“ Should it be kept dry in winter ? 
“ How is it propagated ? 
“ I have never succeeded in keeping one for any length 
of time, and as it is a great favourite I am very anxious to 
do so. —A Constant REAnEE." 
[1. Soil .—Peat and loam well drained. 
d. It will bloom in the greenhouse in summer. 
It should stand out of doors only a short time in 
summer. 
4. It is easily injured by the slightest frost. 
5. It should be kept rather dry in winter and cool, say 
average 43°. 
(i. It is propagated easily by cuttings of young shoots 
getting hard at their base, and placed under a bell-glass in 
a sweet hotbed. 
We presume you mean the Gardenia radicans. The 
following is the outline of culture to have and continue it 
in excellent order:—Supposing that now it is healthy and 
the buds prominent, keep it in a pit or greenhouse at the 
above temperature, from 40° to 45°, and dryish, but so as 
there is no flagging. If in March or April you have a 
sweet hotbed, place it there until the buds begin to open. 
If no hotbed, keep the plants warmer and moister until they 
bloom. Then place in greenhouse or window, where there 
is no great draught of air. When done flowering, and old 
flowers, Ac., pruned and rested for a week or two, place the 
plant in a pit or house, where it can be kept moist and warm 
to encourage growth. Give more air in autumn, and all the 
light possible, and by October house again.] 
BEECH LEAVES FOR VINERY HEATING.— 
GRAFTING AND INARCHING VINES. 
“ Will you bo kind enough to inform me whether Beech 
leaves in a Vinery would be an injury to the Vines? I 
want to fill the pits with leaves, and Beech leaves are the 
easiest for me to get. I am informed they are injurious to 
some things. Should they be put in the pits when they 
are gathered, or should they lie together in a heap any 
time first ? In one of the houses I have one Barbarossa 
and one J Vest's St. Peter’s Vine, but they do not seem to 
bear on the spur plan. Would they bo likely to do better 
on the rod system ? They have heen planted two years 
last March, then being one year from the eye. There are 
two more in the same house, one Purple Constantin, and 
one of which I do not know the name. It has a large 
bunch, but a small Grape. I should like to graft or inarch 
them. Which would be the best plan, and the proper time 
for doing it? I have some Strawberry-plants in pots that 
were forced last spring; will they do any good if forced 
again ?— A Constant Readee.” 
[As soon as the fruit and leaves are removed from the 
Vine you may place the Beech leaves in the pits, either at 
once, or after they have fermented a little. It matters not; 
the gas given off when fermenting will do no harm. If 
there is much grass or moss with the leaves, it would bo 
as well to ferment them first, to let any rank steams off, 
if there were any tender plants in the house at the time. 
