April 6. 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
11 
antimonial medicine, as one-twelfth of a grain of tartar 
emetic, given at night, with warm dry lodging. 
Roup, on the contrary, is an affection of tho cavity of the 
nose, the symptoms being a discharge from the nostrils, 
: first of a clear, afterwards of a thickened opaque character, 
when it has a very peculiar and offensive odour which once 
j perceived is not readily mistaken; this is followed by a 
swelling of the face, partially closing the eye; and there is 
great febrile disturbance, the bird drinking immoderately. 
! This disease (unfortunately too well known), I have never 
seen relieved by tartar emetic, but, as 1 have before stated, 
I have found more benefit from dropping a solution of five 
or ten grains of sulphate of copper (blue vitriol) in an 
ounce of water, into the nostril, either from the front or 
through the roof of the mouth, and giving at the same time 
some stimulating food, as peppered potato, or a little cayenne, 
than from any other means; in the earlier stages, in fact, 
these remedies are very efficacious. 
Having so recently treated at length on these two diseases, 
this note may appear uncalled for. I should not have 
written it, had I not received several communications in 
which the two complaints and their treatment were con¬ 
founded together. In order to avoid unnecessary repetition, 
I may refer for fuller information on these subjects, to 
pages 127, 284, and 329, of the last volume. 
Whilst I have the pen in hand, I may as well allude to a 
slight error in a recent communication of Mr. Lort's, arising 
from a looseness of expression in previous communications 
of mine. In speaking of the contagious character of roup, 
I stated that I believed it might be communicated by fowls 
pecking each others feathers, and from the discharge from 
the nostrils contaminating the soft food or water; by this I 
did not mean to signify that I imagined the discharge when 
swallowed communicated the disease, but that the putrid 
secretion applied to the nostrils, produced a diseased state 
in them, precisely as glanders is communicated in horses. 
My long residence in a dissecting room, where the practice 
of sucking poisoned cuts and punctures is frequent, forbids 
my being ignorant of the fact that animal poisons taken 
I internally are harmless.—W. B. Tegetmeier, Willesden, 
Middlesex. 
QUERIES AND ANSWERS. 
The applications to us for special information have 
become voluminous, and the replies are of such general 
interest, that we are induced to comprise the most im¬ 
portant under a separate department, and have classi¬ 
fied them to facilitate reference. 
GARDENING. 
! CINERARIAS WITH BLIND FLOWER-BUDS. 
j “ I have some Cinerarias which have just all turned out 
i blind, except one. By blind, I mean that the flower-bud is 
empty. I have kept them through the winter in a green¬ 
house, well watered. There has been no green fly on them. 
The leaves are large, and the plants very healthy. What is 
; the cause of their not having proper flowers ? Can I do 
anything to them, or must I throw them away? They have 
had, occasionally, weak manure-water since they showed 
buds. They were offsets, not from seed.— Granada.” 
[Your Cinerarias are blind, that is, the buds have no 
petals or floral leaves in them. The only reason we can 
suggest for their blindness is that you have grown them too 
well, kept them in too rich soil, which, with the manure- 
water, has caused them to make foliage instead of flowers. 
Put them for a week or two" on a starving diet, only just 
watering enough to keep them alive, and no doubt they 
will flower yet. You do not say what is tile size of the pot 
they are in ; probably they are over potted.] 
CINERARIA SEEDLINGS. 
“ I have ten or twelve Cinerarias grown from seed last 
autumn, they are still small but healthy, and in small pots. 
I am anxious to know, ought they now to be potted in a 
larger pot, and how should they be treated, for they will not j 
bear any heat, apparently? Should seeds of Calceolaria and 
Cineraria be sown now ?—Cymiu.” 
[Pot your Cinerarias that are in small pots immediately. 
Sow Calceolaria and Cineraria seed about May, or the be¬ 
ginning of June. That will be soon enough to obtain strong 
plants by the autumn, and they will flower well in the 
spring of next year.] • 
ORCHIDS FOR A COOL STOVE. 
“ Will you oblige me by giving the names of a few 
Orchids which would thrive in a cool stove. Those which 
bloom during the dull months of the year, are free-flowering, 
distinct, showy, and not very expensive, would be preferred. 
I have succeeded with Dendrobium nubile, Oncidhtm flex- 
uosum, Cypripedium insigne, Oncidiurn papilio, Slanhopea 
insignis, and Zygopetalon Mackayii .— A Beginner.” 
[The following will suit your cool stove—Barkeria spec- 
tabilis, grown on a block; Calanthe veratrifolia, Cattleya 
crispa, C. granulosa, C. Harrisonii, C. mossire, Cypripedium 
venustum, Cyrtochilum maculatum, Dendrobium densi- 
florum, Epidendrum maerochilum, Lcalia anceps, L. nu- 
tumnalis, Lycaste Skinnerii, and Odontoglossum grande. 
All these would average about a guinea each, but the set 
may be had for much less, if all are ordered at once. We 
cannot recommend dealers.] 
CESTRUM AUliANTIACUM MANAGEMENT. 
“ M. C. E. has a fine plant of Ccstrum aurantiacum 
in her greenhouse, it flowered very well last autumn, and 
during the winter shed its leaves, but not having been 
properly pruned, she supposes it has put forth leaves at 
the tops of the long shoots, and the plant being three or four 
feet high, it looks very bad.” 
[You may safely cut this back to a bud or two of where 
the shoots came from last season, and keep it in a warm 
part of the greenhouse. If you have n warmer place, and 
that height is too much for yon, you may cut back as far as 
you like, provided the wood is not above two years old; 
though we have had the wood break freely in a moist heat 
when four or five years old. Each piece, four or six inches 
in length, of the young parts cut away, will strike readily 
in a Cucumber-frame, or any where commanding a nice 
moist heat, ranging from fib 0 to 05° at top, and 10° more 
for plunging, but they will do well without the latter, though 
they will not root so quickly. These repotted will bloom 
freely in winter and spring. The treatment of this plant 
was lately given.] 
RHODODENDRON ARBOREUM AND SALVIA GES- 
NER.EFOLIA NOT FLOWERING. 
“I have two plants, one is Rhododendron arboreum, and the 
other is Salvia gesneraflolia. The former is a large plant, 
about eleven feet high (standard), with a good head in pro¬ 
portion. Now, this plant has been in the greenhouse nearly 
fourteen years, yet has only flowered once in that time. It 
makes a moderate growth yearly, and when it has made its 
growth the points of the foliage turn brown. It is in a tub 
two feet square. Some few years ago they took it out of the 
tub and cut the roots off, so as to make the same tub serve 
as a good shift for it. The Salvia gcsneraj'olia I had, as 
cuttings, in March, about this time last year. They grew on 
till they began to shed their leaves. I then pinched all the 
strong branches, and from every pinching I had two strong 
branches strong enough to flower, but no signs of it at 
present. These plants are seven or eight feet high, or more, 
and nicely branched from the pot upwards.—W. W. L.” 
[We have had splendid blooms from hybrid Rhododendrons 
the whole of this winter. It is now nearly two years ago since a 
description was given of how they bloomed in fine condition. 
But it was also stated, that under the best devised treatment 
failure would sometimes ensue. We have heard this morning 
from a gardener, to whose kindness we have been previously 
indebted in these pages, and he tells us that his large plant 
of Scarlet Rhododendron has been amazingly fine this 
season, and that he thinks he has found out the certain mode 
of getting it to bloom every season. We will put his kind¬ 
ness to the test. Meanwhile, as our own success has been 
very fair, we shall notice some of the essentials to success. 
