May 25. 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
117 
around the heavens. Dr. Baird was asked how they 
managed in regard to hired persons, and what they con¬ 
sidered a day. IIo could not say, but supposed they worked 
by the hour, and twelve hours would be considered a day’s 
work. 
Birds and animals take their accustomed rest at the usual 
hours. The Doctor did not know how they learned the 
time, but they had; and go to rest whether the sun goes 
down or not. Tho hens take to tlio troos about seven p.m., 
and stay till the sun is well up in tho morning; and the 
people get into the habit of late rising, too. The first 
morning Dr. Baird awoke in Stockholm, he was surprised 
to see the sun shining into his room. He looked at his 
watch, and found it was only three o’clock ! the next time 
he awoke it was five o'clock ; but there were no persons in 
the street. Tho Swedes in tho cities arc not very industrious, 
owing, probably, to the climate .—The Northern Farmer. 
TO CORRESPONDENTS. 
*** We request that no one will write to the departmental writers of 
Tub Cottage Gardener. It gives them unjustifiable trouble and 
expense. All communications should be addressed “ To the Editor of 
The Cottage Gardener , 2, Amen Corner , Paternoster Row, London .” 
Small Greenhouse (J. S. L.). —In such a house you may grow all 
kinds of Camellias, Heaths, Azaleas, and Geraniums, if you merely winter 
them; in fact, anything you like that does not require stove treatment. 
If you told us what plants you wished to cultivate, and what temperature 
you could keep up when the external air was from 10° to 20° below the 
freezing point, we should be in no difficulty on the matter. It is seldom 
that plants are long exposed to a very low temperature, even in winter, 
when the frost is thoroughly excluded. Plants that would be injured by 
a fortnight or three weeks at 33°, will suffer little from a heat of 32°, or 
30°, for short intervals, when the thermometer frequently rises to 40° 
and 45°. Try Payne's Cottagers' Hive. 
Stands for Cut Roses and Hollyhocks (17. J. 0.).—Our corres¬ 
pondent disapproves of those at present used, and would be obliged by 
any one suggesting a more convenient stand. 
Liquid-Manure of Pigeons* Dung (A Young Florist). —All liquid- 
manures must be very weak, or they injure the plants to which they are 
applied. One pound of dry pigeons’ dung is enough for ten gallons of 
water. Stir them together repeatedly for a day ; let the undissolved part 
settle, and then pour off the clear liquid for use. We know of no better 
directions for Pansey culture than that given in our No. 117, and in The 
Cottage Gardeners' Dictionary. 
Weight of Shangiiae Chickens (D. C.).— See what is said editori¬ 
ally to-day. At four months old cockerels should weigh about 5 lbs. and 
pullets about 4 lbs. 
Blistered Vine Leaves (M. fi.).~We should not call the leaves 
“blistered;” they seem over-luxuriant, probably from the air of the 
vinery being kept too moist. 
Salt to Asparagus Beds (Arborist). —The roots of the Asparagus 
| having decayed during the winter, arose, probably, from the severe 
I temperature, as we have known several beds in low, damp situations so 
I destroyed. Salt should be applied only whilst the plants are growing, 
I from April to September. Two pounds to every thirty square yards, once 
; a month, during that time, is a good application. 
; Seedling Cineraria (2V. R. J —Not so good as many very simi¬ 
larly coloured. The'petals do not imbricate enough to render it a show 
flower. 
Land in British America (J . Williams). —It is quite impossible 
j to advise you, for we know nothing as to soil, or climate, or locality. 
Non-receipt of Seeds (Q. in a corner ).—Wc have forwarded your 
i note to the parties. It must have been an oversight, we think.. 
Insect destroying Kidney Beans and Peas (J. G. Worne). — 
The insects you inclosed, and which you find in the seed sown of Kidney 
Beans and Peas, is one of the Snake Millipedes , and is called Julus 
pulchellus. Lime mixed with the soil is said to drive them away. You 
will find a drawing and all that we know about them in our 38th number. 
Weeks and Co. (W.). —You will see by an advertisement to-day, 
that J. Weeks and Co., have no connection with E. and A. Weeks, 
though both carrying on business at Chelsea. 
Names of Plants (F. W. S .).—No. 1. Scrophularia vernalis. No. 2. 
Saxifraga sarmentosa, or “Thread of Life.” ( N . A. M.). — Loniceru 
xylosteum, or Fly Honeysuckle. 
CALENDAR FOR JUNE. 
ORCHID HOUSE. 
Aerides, Saccolabiums, Vandas, and other allied Indian plants, 
will now be growing freely, and will require abundance of water both at 
the roots and over the tops. Any on blocks that are growing freely 
should have some moss tied round the block to retain moisture a longer 
time. Air should now be liberally given almost every day, unless cold, 
wet days should intervene. The air openings should be so constructed as 
not to allow a rush of cold wind over the tops of the plants. Baskets : 
the plants in them will be making their new growths, and will require to 
be dipped in tepid water at least once a week, or even oftener in very hot 
weather. Blocks : syringe twice a day, in the morning by seven o’clock, 
and in the afternoon about four. Catesetums, Cyrtopodiums, 
Cynociies, and their like, give plenty of water at the root, taking care 
that none lodges amongst the young leaves for any length of time. 
Dendrobiums : many of this fine family will, towards the end of the 
month, have finished their growth. They should then be placed in a 
cooler house, and less water given to them. Heat : the natural heat of 
the atmosphere out-of-doors renders less fire necessary. During the day, 
unless in cold wet weather, none will be needed, a little every night will 
yet be useful, especially in the Indian-house. Insects will breed rapidly 
during this warm season ; every means must be resorted to to keep them 
under. Moisture : the air of the house should be kept full of moisture 
during this month. Many of the roots will be dangling in the air, 
sucking up, as it were, the moisture in it. Moss on the outside of the 
pots, and on the leaves, will accumulate greatly with the heat and the 
moisture; the pots must be washed, and the leaves sponged frequently, i 
to open the breathing-pores of the latter. Offsets on the stems of Den- j 
drobiums should be all taken off, to encourage growth from the bottom ; j 
they may be made plants of if required. Plants in flower will last ! 
much longer if removed into a cooler house. Syringe : this instrument 
will, during the month, be in constant requisition. In using it, let the 1 
water from it fall gently upon the plants, imitating a gentle shower of [ 
rain. Shade must be applied during bright burning sunshine. Water, • 
apply liberally to all growing plants, but be sure and use soft or rain 1 
water. A slate tank is the best thing to contain it; iron vessels should 
by all means be avoided. Weeds, destroy constantly ; but such plants ' 
as Ferns, Heaths, except creeping species, that come up amongst the ' 
rough peat, may be allowed to grow, they will shade the roots, and serve ‘ 
as indicator, when they flag, to show that the compost is dry and requires 
water. T. Aplleby. 
PLANT STOVE. 
Aciiimenes: those early potted will now be in flower; supply them 
freely with water; repot the last batch to flower late. A.picta put thickly 
into wide shallow pans, and grow on to flower at Christmas. Amaryllis, 
going out of bloom, and their bulbs ripening, place in tC cold frame, and 
give no water to induce them to rest. Air, give liberally all day, and in 
hot, close nights leave a little on. Aphelandra aurantiaca, grow on 
in a hot pit to bloom in winter. Baskets, where used, keep moist by 
dipping and syringing frequently. Bark-beds, renew, if the heat 
declines. Cuttings, put in if required; pot off such as have struck 
root. Climbers, on the rafters, train, and keep within bounds. In pots, 
train round the trcllisses ; attend to them constantly, or they will soon get 
out of order. Francisceas done flowering, place in a cold frame to rest. 
Gardenia, treat in a similar way. Gesneras, repot young plants, put 
in cuttings of. Gloxinias, the same; every leaf will make plants if 
putin as cuttings. Heat, keep under, no fire heat is required now. 
Insects of all kinds, destroy diligently, especially the red spider and 
mealybug. Ixoras, the large specimens will now be in flower; keep 
them moist at the root, but refrain from syringing over the bloom ; 
young plants repot, and tie out young specimens. Moisture in the 
air, keep up by flooding the walks daily. Plants in flower, keep 
cool, and shade them, this will prolong the bloom. Potting, do when¬ 
ever it is necessary. Seeds of many stove plants may yet be sown ; 
transplant seedlings when just out of the seed-leaf. Syringe, use daily. 
Water, apply liberally, but not so as to sodden the soil. Top-dress 
the whole stock of plants during the month, it refreshes and gives them a 
neat, clean appearance; wash the pots if mossy, Weeds, constantly 
eradicate. Worms in pots, destroy with lime water. T. Appleby. 
FLORISTS’ FLOWERS. 
Auriculas and Polyanthuses, place on ashes behind a north wall, 
in the shade ; keep clear of weeds, and constantly supplied with water. 
Seedlings prick out in shallow pans or boxes. Carnations and Picotees, 
place on the stage ; put stakes to, and water freely. Chrysanthemums, 
pot; plant out some old plants to layer and form dwarf plants. Dahlias, 
finish planting ; put stakes to early ; put in cuttings of new or scarce 
kinds. Fuchsias, pot off cuttings ; train specimens, and water occa¬ 
sionally with liquid-manure. Sow seed of Hollyhock; put stakes to ; 
prick out seedlings. Hyacinths out of bloom, take up and store. 
Insects, destroy. Pansies, water freely in dry weather; put in cuttings 
of; 8dw seed, and transplant; layer long, straggling shoots ; shade from 
hot sun. Pinks, tie to sticks ; place Indian-rubber rings round the buds 
when more than half-grown; transplant seedlings; put in pipings. 
Ranunculuses, keep very moist; place shades over them as the blooms 
expand. Roses, look to the buds, and destroy by crushing the worm in 
the bud. Put such as are in pots, and have done blooming, in a cold pit, 
or in the open air in a shady place. Tulips, cutoff all seed-vessels, and 
take up the bulbs as soon as the leaves decay. Verbenas, in the border, 
shade from sun ; peg down the long branches in pots; tie out, keep 
moist, and shade. Water, give to all in pots freely. T. Appleby. 
FLOWER-GARDEN. 
Anemones, take up as leaves wither; dry and store. Annuals (Hardy 
and some Tender), plant out to remain, in showery weather best; sow for 
late crops; some (hardy) may be sown, b. Auriculas, continue 
shading; plant offsets ; prick out seedlings. Baskets or clumps, form 
of greenhouse plants. Beds, attend diligently to recent planted ; water 
and stir them in dry weather. Biennials and Perennials, sow, if 
omitted, b. Box edgings clip. Bulbous Roots (Tulips, Jonquils, 
See.), not florists’ flowers, remove offsets from; dry and store ; may trans¬ 
plant some, or keep until autumn; autumn-flowering, as Colchicums, 
&c., take up as leaves decay, separate offsets, and replant, or not until 
end of July. Carnations in bloom, attend; aid the bud-pod to split 
with a pair of narrow sharp-pointed scissors ; bandage buds, to prevent 
bursting, with Indian-rubber rings, or tape; water every second day ; 
tie to supporters, &c.; prick out seedlings; make layers. Chrysan¬ 
themums, plant out to layer next month. Cyclamens, transplant. 
Dahlias, finish planting out, b. Dress the borders assiduously; 
neatness now stamps a gardener’s character. Fibrous-rooted Peren¬ 
nials, propagate by cuttings; shade and water. Flowering Plants, 
generally, require training and support. Grass, mow, roll, and trim 
edges. Gravel, weed, sweep, and roll. Hedges, clip, e. Leaves 
and stems decaying, remove as they appear. Liquid Manure, apply 
occasionally to all choice flowers. Mignonette, sow for late bloom, b. 
Mimuluses, plant out. Pceonies (Chinese), water freely with liquid 
