August 22 . 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
405 
VEGETABLES. 
Potatoes, 5s per cwt. 
Cabbages, 8d to Is per dozen 
lied Cabbages, Is fid per doz. 
Turnips, Is fid to 2s fid per 
dozen bunches 
Carrots, fis per doz. bunches 
Onions, 3s per doz. bunches 
Leeks, Is fid per doz. bundles 
Lettuces, 8d to Is per score 
Endive, 8d to Is per score 
Celery, Cs per dozen bundles 
Radishes, Is per doz. bunch. 
Water Cress, fid p. doz. bunch. 
Small Salad, 2d per punnet 
Chervil, 2d per punnet 
Beet, 8d to Is per bunch 
Artichokes, 2s fid per doz. 
Tomatoes, 8d to Is per pun. 
Chilies, Is fid per hundred 
Gerkins, Is fid per doz. 
Peas, 2s to 4s fid per bushel 
Beans, 2s to 3s per bushel 
Mushrooms, 12s to 15s per 
dozen pottles 
Kidney Beans, 3s per hf. sieve 
Scarlet Runners, 2s fid p. hf. s. 
Onions, young, 3s per dz. bell. 
Vegetable Marrow, Is fid per 
dozen 
Cauliflowers, Is Gd to 3s per 
dozen 
Brocoli, fis to 8s per dz. bnch. 
Spanish Onions, 11s to 10s 
per hundred 
HERBS. 
Sage, Marjoram, Basil, Tarragon, Fennel, Parsley, Mint, 
Lemon Thyme, Id to fid per bunch. Garlic, 8d per lb. 
Shallots, 8d per lb. 
In Cut Flowers, the display was rich in Gladioli, Carna¬ 
tions, Cloves, Pinks, Mignonette, Erysimums, Heaths, Lilies, 
Verbenas, Sweet Scabiosas, Catananches, Fuchsias, Pelargo- 
niums, Tansies, Lupines, Lychnis, Stocks, Roses, at 2d to 
Is Gd per bunch. Bouquettes, Is to 2s fid. 
PLANTS IN FLOWER IN GARDENS AND 
NURSERIES. 
Thilesia buxifolia, red, a new low shrub from Patagonia. 
Hybrid Phloxes from suffruticosa and decussata, in colours, 
white, purple, pink, and stripes. 
HARDY PERENNIALS. 
Anthemis punctata, white 
Achillea filipendula, yellow 
„ „ white 
Aconitum Nepalense, purple 
„ paniculatum 
„ laxium 
Chrysanthemum fruteseens, 
yellow 
Campanula pyramidalis, blue 
„ „ < white 
Clematis diversifolia, purple 
„ integrifolia 
„ Viorna, white 
„ erecta 
„ Florida, white 
„ Sieboldi, white and 
lilac 
„ „ double 
DelphiniumHendersonii,blue 
Dianthus asper, pink 
I Erigeron alpinus, blue 
j Epilobium Dodomei, lilac 
Gladiolus floribundus, pink 
„ byzantinus,red and 
yellow 
„ psitticinus, red and 
yellow 
With hybrid varieties from 
Psitticinus and Cardinalis; 
in colours, from vermilion- 
red, pink, scarlet, ruby-red 
and yellow mixed, to white 
Lathyrus tuberosus, purple 
„ latifolius, white 
„ „ yellow 
Matricaria grandiflora, white 
„ „ double 
Monarda mollis, blue 
Oxalis lioribunda, pink 
„ nana, yellow 
„ lasiandra, yellow 
GMotliera prostata, yellow 
„ liybrida 
Potentilla glabra, white 
„ hirta, yellow 
Psoralea macrostachya, blue 
Penstemon argutum, lilac 
Scutellaria liastifolia, ruby 
„ alpina, white and 
purple 
Santolina pectinata, yellow 
Scabiosa agrestis, blue 
Stevia Eupatoria, white 
Silene shafta, pink 
Tritonia aurea, red and yel¬ 
low 
Yucca gloriosa, white 
GARDENING. 
BRITISH POMOLOGICAL SOCIETY. 
“ Will the Editor of The Cottage Gardener inform a 
< Country Bumpkin,’what information or advantage he would 
derive from subscribing 10s. a year to the Bornological 
I Society, because that information might be conveyed to the 
; editors of newspapers in the counties of Gloucester, Wor- 
I cester, and Hereford, and a considerable number of sub- 
; scribers obtained ?—LiL” 
w. 
[“ A Country Bumpkin’’ is just the sort of person who 
will be benefited by associating himself with the “ Pomo- 
logical Society,” as, by doing so, he is more likely to know 
what is going on in the world among a class with whom he 
seems to have a fellow-feeling. We say in the world, for, 
although the Society is called “ The British Pomological 
Society,” it will have correspondents in every country of 
Europe, and in America; and information on all that is 
doing there will be obtained and reproduced in the Society’s 
Transactions for the benefit of pomologists in the country. 
That, of itself, is surely worth 10s. a year. But there are 
many other advantages which will be obtained; details of 
which will now shortly be published, and which, in all pro¬ 
bability, will appear in the pages of this Journal. Such 
a Society is much wanted, and will be of great service 
to the fruit - growing community; and that its objects 
may be fully promoted, we recommend all who, either 
directly or indirectly, have an interest in the subject, to send 
in their application for membership to “ Mr. J. Spencer, 
Bowood, near Caine,” that they may be proposed at the first 
meeting, which will be held on the 26th instant.] 
PEAS ON A PARCHING SOIL. 
“ Mr. Hogg, in his excellent articles on the various Peas, 
may be able to give us a few hints as to the best sorts of 
Peas for growing on the light soils round London. I have 
been growing the Champion of England, and Knight's tall 
and dwarf Marrows, but I find, during the late hot weather, 
the most part of them have died off, as if eaten away at the 
surface of the ground. Such is not the case. It is caused 
by the hot nature of the soil under a burning sun; and for 
some years past I have never been able to find a Pea that 
will stand. They, in most eases, go off when about half 
their natural length. It must be a very mild season to get 
them to stand. And again, in wet seasons there are some 
kinds that are much more subject to mildew than others. 
If you can give me any information as to the best kinds of 
Peas for a hot, dry soil, I shall be much obliged.—A. B. C.” 
[We have seen similar instances to that you mention in 
some parts of the neighbourhood of London, where the soil 
is gravelly and hot. The best remedy for it is, not so much 
any particular variety of Pea, as a liberal, and, indeed, a 
good heavy manuring of Cow-dung the season previous, or 
in the autumn preceding the spring in which you sow your 
crops. Horse-dung is of itself too heating to be applied to 
such a description of soil; hut you may very advantageously 
use it for mulching over the roots of the peas just previ¬ 
ously to earthing them up. The mulch under the earthing 
keeps the moisture in the soil. You might advantageously 
add Bishop’s Long Podded to your list, and also Burbige’s 
Eclipse, which you will find are not so liable to go off in the 
way you mention.] 
CALCEOLARIAS.—PETUNIAS.—VERBENAS.— 
SCARLET GERANIUMS, &c. 
“ For a stock for bedding, for next year, is it better to lift 
the old plants, or to depend wholly upon the cuttings made 
this autumn ? If lifting be advisable, please to state the 
best mode of storing and keeping the old plants ; whether 
packed close in boxes or pots, with a little earth, and token 
they ought to be lifted or taken up? Pray give as full in¬ 
structions as you can. 
“ I find old plants take up so much room as to be incon¬ 
venient where there are several hundreds. 
“ Ivory's Scarlet Geranium, with the handsome leaf of 
Baron Hugel, &c., but of a better colour. Do you know this ? 
and is it to be purchased ? 
A deep pink Geranium, deeper and richer colour than 
Lucia Rosea, with the leaf of Tom Thumb. Is this Tom 
Thumb's Bride, or Princess Alice t 
11 Delphinium Chincnse, for a blue bed, I find difficulty in 
raising. Should it have a hotbed ? All the seedlings put 
out in May were taken off by some insect. Perhaps, for¬ 
warding the plants in a hotbed might enable me to get 
them stronger, to plant out.— Yerax.” 
[Old Petunias and old Verbenas cannot be potted from the 
beds with success; cuttings of them must bo made every 
year. Calceolarias and Geraniums lift very well, and are 
better for being old, in most places, particularly Calceolarias ; 
but the question of taking up old plants and storing them 
