August 29. 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
417 
would recommend having strong-growing kinds, such as 
Smiths or Shrublancls on their own bottoms. The 
Dint given above, as to seedlings, is worth attending to, 
as thus tho straightest and smoothest stems arc most 
easily procured. The seeds should be sown in a mild 
bottom-heat, early in the season ; and, however potted 
and repotted, care should bo given to prevent all check 
or stand still until the single shoot has gained the 
necessary height. Eor increasing the size of tho stem, 
no leaf should be removed so long as it keeps green; but 
when tho standard character is resolved upon, all side- 
shoots should never show themselves, but be removed 
from the axils of the leaves, with the point of a pen¬ 
knife, when in the incipient state of buds. With good 
attention, fine stems may be procured in one year, and 
very fine in the second. When grown high enough, 
the stocks should be rested by comparative dryness and 
coolness during the winter, and the buds being removed, 
as stated above, those left at the top will break out into 
shoots the following spring, after the terminal bud has 
been removed, on the application of a higher temperature 
1 and increased moisture. 
Such plants are also easily raised from cuttings, and 
large pieces may be inserted at once, but tho chief 
disadvantage for standards from cuttings is, that the 
stand still, when rooting, predisposes more to side 
growth, and much care is requisite to have the stock j 
straight and clear. Those who would prefer any outline 
of the tall pyramidal form, in preference to the naked 
standard, will fiud cuttings, in every respect, preferable 
to seeds. Such pyramids would always present an im¬ 
posing appearance, and chime in better with many 
other things than naked-stemmed standards, but then 
they do not answer so well as prominent points, nor 
yet, in limited quantity, allow you either out-of-doors 
or in doors, to have bloom above and bloom below. 
However useful for in-door ornaments, it will be in 
the flower-garden that these Scarlet Standards will be 
chiefly used, and there, when of good size, will be very 
interesting. They must not be expected to be very 
captivating the first season after planting; when the 
shoots must come from the incipient buds, though from 
four to six large trusses, in such circumstances, is far 
from being cause of complaint. In the second year 
you may calculate on more. I will now allude to a few 
points of culture for this object, keeping in view direc¬ 
tions to suit the greatest number of growers. 
J. When growing, whether from seed or cuttings, use 
rather rich soil; after the first potting, which should be 
rather light, plenty of drainage, top-dressings of cow- 
dung, and manure-waterings once a week, and as high 
and moist a temperature as you can easily command, 
provided it does not exceed 00° at night. As autumn 
goes on give air more liberally, to consolidate growth, 
and keep the plants dryish, if not coolish, during 
winter. 
2. It will not be advisable to turn out-of doors until 
the middle of May, but nothing more than a gentle 
stimulus should be given to them previously. After the 
first season’s plauting-out, the few soft points of the 
shoots may be removed at raising time in the autumn, 
and after the plants have been kept rather dry, be 
pruned farther back in March, if necessary, but from 
that time until May, no greater excitement should be 
given than to have the buds breaking into stumpy, 
hardy shoots. The more they are grown previously, 
and, consequently, the more tender they are, the more 
will the plants suffer from cold aud sharp winds. 
3. Do not keep in pots when turned out in the flower- 
garden; on the contrary, give them good, rich soil, and 
the earth to range in, as the beauty of the standard will 
greatly consist in having strong shoots and fine trusses 
of bloom. A few manure-waterings will be useful in 
dry weather. 
4. Do not delay taking them up too long, as, if the 
frost injures the stems at all, the health of the plant 
will be greatly, if not irreparably, injured. From the 
middle to the third week in October would, in general, 
be safe. It would be advisable, in large specimens, to 
cut the roots round, by degrees, at the distance of eight 
or twelve inches from the stem, for a month or six 
weeks before taking up; but if the plants are not large, 
and fresh lumpy soil has been used at planting time, 
they may be raised with a fork without the process of 
preparing. 
5. When taken up, they may either be repotted 
separately, or packed in largo boxes; using, in either 
case, light sandy soil, that roots may be encouraged. A 
shady place will suit the best for a few days, aud 
syringings over the foliage, instead of frequent drench- 
iugs at the roots. A freer exposure to sun and air may, 
ere long, be given to harden the wood; and if frost is 
guarded against, the south side of a wall, provided the 
smaller foliage does not flag, will answer well. By 
the end of November, they may be wintered beneath 
the stage of a greenhouse, a warm, light stick-hole, or 
warm shed, &c. The great thing being to oxclude frost, 
secure a temperature seldom above 40°, and seldom 
below 30°; and such a state of dryness as will not 
cause the shoots or buds to progress, and yet will keep 
tho stems and roots from being mummy-dried. By 
March, the plants may be looked over, pruned, cleaned, 
and obtain moro light; and generally, by the end of that 
mouth, or middle of April, a warm, sheltered place, 
where they can have a fair amount of suu, aud be 
secured from heavy rains and frosts, will be a good 
position for them until they are planted out. 
R. Fish. 
JOTTINGS BY THE WAY. 
BADORGAN, ISLE OF ANGLESEA, 
The Seat of Owen Fueler Meyrick, Esq. 
The situation of this boautiful place is peculiarly 
pleasant, and the climate is so mild that all such Coni- 
ferac that have suffered, more or less, in places con¬ 
siderably further south, have not been injured at all by 
the late more than usually severe winter. 
As Mr. Ewing, the excellent gardener, is the inventor 
aud patentee of the elegant glass walls, and has here a 
good specimen of them, I was glad of the opportunity 
of seeing them in the summer. The Beaches and Nec¬ 
tarines have a very fair crop of fruit on them, and are 
as healthy as possible. The Apricots also look well, 
but were rather thin of fruit. The Fig-tree was very 
fine, and had a heavy crop of large fruit: 
There is no doubt, in my opinion, of the utility of 
glass-walls, though I consider them capable of some 
improvement. 1 would suggest the making them wide 
enough to allow space for a walk within them, aud 
haviug the trees planted on each side of tho walk, 
instead of planting them on each side of a trellis in the 
centre, as Mr. Ewing has done. Then, again, by 
making them wider, and having a narrow walk down 
the middle, they might be heated with a double row of 
hot-water pipes under tho footpath, and, to let the heat 
out, this path should be formed of trellis-work. A 
further improvement would be to divide the glass-wall 
into lengths, by fixing glass-doors at certain distances; 
say, if the Avail was one hundred feet long, place two 
divisions in it, at thirty-three feet and a fraction from 
each other, and the wall would form three houses;—one 
of which might be for an early crop ; another for a late 
crop; and the third might be planted with Vines, or 
Plums, or any other fruit-tree tho proprietor might 
fancy. With theso improvements, the glass-wall might 
safely be considered an ornamental and useful building. 
