424 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
August 29. 
VEGETABLES. 
Potatoes, -Is (id to 5s per cvvt. 
Cabbages, 8d to Is per dozen 
Red Cabbages, 3s per doz. 
Cape Brocoli, Is Od per doz. 
Brocoli in bunches, 9s to 10s 
per doz. 
Turnips, Is Od to 2s per doz. 
bunches 
Onions, 2s 3d per doz. bunch 
Onions, young, 4s per dz. bch. 
Carrots, 4s per doz. bunches 
Kidney Beans, 2s 3d per lif. s. 
Scarlet Runners, 5s per bush, 
sieve 
Cauliflowers, 2s to 3s per doz 
Peas, 3s to 5s per bushel 
Be'ans, 2s per bushel 
Lettuces, 8d to Is per score 
Endive, 8d to Is per score 
Leeks, Is 6d per doz. bunches 
Vegetable Marrow, 8d to Is 
per dozen 
Celery, Od to Is 3d per bunch 
Beet, 4s per doz. bunches 
ITand-glass Cucumbers, Is 
per doz. 
Frame Cucumbers, Is 3d to 
2s per punnet 
Water Cress, 4d p. doz.bunch. 
Small Salad, 2d per punnet 
Chervil, 2d per punnet 
Radishes, Od per doz. bunch. 
Black Spanish Radishes, 4d 
per bunch 
Artichokes, 2s per doz. 
Parsnips, 6d per bunch 
Mushrooms, 12s per doz. pot. 
Garlic and Shallots, 8d p. lb. 
Tomatoes, Is per punnet 
Pickling Onions, 2s Od to 4s 
per half sieve. 
Gerkins, 2s per hundred. 
Nasturtiums, 6d per quart. 
Radish Pods, 4d per quart. 
HERBS. 
Basil, Marjoram, Savory, Thyme, Lemon Thyme, Parsley, 
Tarragon, Fennel, Sage, Mint, Lavender, Rosemary, Com 
Salad, from Id to 4d per bunch. 
Cut Flowers —Pelargoniums, Roses, Phloxes, Fuchsias, 
Sweet Peas, Sweet Scabious, Mignonette, Erysimums, Pinks, 
Pansies, Verbenas, Lupines, Achilleas, Matricarias, Stevias, 
Catananches, Dahlias, Honeysuckles, Picotees, Stocks, Mari¬ 
golds, Eschscholtzias, Lilies, Delphiniums, 2d to Is per 
bunch. Violets, Is per doz. bunches. Bouquettcs, Is to 
2s Od each. 
PLANTS IN FLOWER IN GARDENS AND 
NURSERIES. 
HARDY PERENNIALS. 
Anemone japonica 
Antirrhinum majus, in colours 
of white, red, yellow, and 
purple, with intermediate 
shades and stripes. 
Aster concolor, blue 
„ sparsiflorus, lilac 
„ sagittrefolius 
„ cordifolius 
„ Sibericus 
„ hcterophyllus 
„ pyrseneus, blue 
„ prenantlioides 
„ dracunculoides 
Astragalus creticus, lilac 
Clematis florida, white 
,, „ doublo 
„ vitalba, white 
„ Hendersoni, purple 
„ liybrida, lilac 
„ Sieboldii, white and 
purple 
„ „ double 
Cedronella cana, reddish 
Crucianella stylosa 
Diantlnis aspej, pink 
Epilobium angustissimum, 
red 
„ angustifolium, white 
Funkia laurifolia, lilac 
Hypericum proliferum,yellow 
„ calycinum 
„ Androcemum 
„ pyramidatum 
Inula salieina, yellow 
Lilium tigrinum, spotted 
Linum flavum, yellow 
Linaria vulgaris, yellow 
Mouarda mollis, blue 
(Enothera magnifica, yellow 
„ macrocaipa 
„ speciosa 
Phlox gracilis, red 
„ speciosissimus, red 
„ Carolina, red 
„ paniculata, white 
„ imbricata, mixed 
„ Bourbonensis, lilao 
Pap aver alpinum, yellow 
Potentilla erecta, yellow 
Rhexia rubella, reddish ; fine 
for bedding out, or planting 
for masses 
Saponaria officinalis, white 
Scutellaria galericulata 
Silene inflata, white 
“ maritima 
Yucca filamentosa, white 
QUERIES AND ANSWERS. 
GARDENING. 
OBTAINING CUCUMBERS AT CHRISTMAS.— 
FORCING ROSES. 
“ Will you kindly tell me how I am to manage a three- 
light pit to get Cucumbers for uso at Christmas ? When 
should I save the seed ? and what sort, and what quantity, of 
dung it will take? I have, also, a quantity of Roses, on 
various borders, I want to take up for forcing. When would 
you recommend me to take them up ? The sorts I do not 
know. There are some that have been in the borders for a 
length of time, but they will make fine specimens for the 
pot.—A Young Beginner.” 
[Sow your Cucumbers in heat as soon as you can. If 
you can take a few cuttings of a desirable sort, it will be as 
well to fill the half of the pit with them, and as they show 
signs of going off, let the seedlings monopolise their places. 
Short kinds, as Cut hill’s, Stockwood, and the Sion House, are 
the best for this purpose. The last is the best, where its 
smooth skin is not objected to. It grows freely in winter 
in a temperature of from 00° to fi5°, though it will stand 
five or ten degrees more, when most of the longish kinds 
will do little good under 70°. 
We can say little of the quantity of dung, as that will 
depend greatly on the construction of the pit and the cold¬ 
ness of the winter. Of the former, you say nothing ; and of 
the latter, the greatest philosopher is just as wise as the 
simplest amongst us. The inference, however, is obvious, 
that a sufficiency must bo in command to keep up the heat 
mentioned above; and were the dung to be procured lor 
that purpose without an ulterior object of usefulness, it would 
be found expensive heating; but in most cases the heating 
costs little, because the fermenting material is thus brought 
into usefulness for other things. One other thing, however, 
we may specify. Suppose your pit has so much above the 
ground, and so much below it, the latter part being pigeon¬ 
holed the usual course is to fill the bed to the necessary height, 
inside with sweet fermenting material, and then increase 
that heat when it lessened by means of linings. But in this 
case, it will at once be perceived that you lose much heat 
in the processs of preparation ; and then, again, if you use 
fresh dung as linings, you must be careful that no steani 
from them find their way inside, or farewell to the health of 
the Cucumbers. By far the most economical mode is, either 
to have a close flooring for the soil for the plants to rest 
upon, with a chamber underneath, communicating with the 
lining, by arches, so as to have heat without steam, or 
merely to have such a chamber filled with stones, or empty, 
and a solid four-inch wall on the sides from top to bottom. 
With such soild walls, and huge dung-linings up to the 
wall plate, and turning them, and covering them when 
necessary, we could command bottom-heat and top-heat 
pretty well; but we should almost terrify an amateur, were 
we to give an outline of the loads of litter and leaves 
that were required during the winter, though the labour 
just fitted all these ingredients for enriching the kitchen- 
garden afterwards. Where you can secure dryness, it is 
well not to have too much of such a pit above the ground. 
Wo fear you will do no great things with your Roses. 
They generally require a summer’s growth in pots to do 
well. However, there is no harm in giving them a fair trial. 
We have taken up Roses with nicely ripened buds in De¬ 
cember, and had nice Roses from them in spring; but it 
requires great care, and that, even with much attention, will 
not always secure against loss and disappointment. Bourbons 
and Chinas will do best; then Perpetuals; then Damasks, Ac. 
When your leaves begin to get rusty, and you perceive' the 
wood is pretty firm, in a month or so raise the plants, and 
pot them carefully. Set them in a shady place, and sprinkle 
the foliage to keep it from flagging. In a week or so plunge 
the pots, so as to give them a slight bottom-heat, while the 
tops are kept cool, and this will encourage the rooting 
process. Allow them to remain there until you want to 
commence forcing. Then force but little, and continue to 
let the roots have more heat than the tops. The secret of 
our success, when we tried such a plan, was getting the 
roots somewhat in advance of the buds.] 
CArE ASTER NOT BLOOMING WELL. 
“ An Old Subscriber would feel extremely obliged if she 
could be informed why the enclosed Cape Aster blossoms so 
badly. It was planted out from the greenhouse in May, 
on a south border. The plant itself looks healthy, but the 
blossoms have all the withered appearance of the enclosed 
specimens." 
