TIIE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
507 
September 26. 
but much more noble and majestic forms—I mean, particu¬ 
larly,those of the Tree Ferns.’ ’’] 
HONEY FROM THE KALMIA. 
“ I like your periodical much, but think it hardly suitable 
for Newfoundland, on account of our rigorous climate. I 
shall, however, continue it, for the present at all events, on 
account of the many valuable suggestions that are appli¬ 
cable. In spite of our climate, I am very anxious to intro¬ 
duce Bee-culture here. My chief difficulty, hitherto, has 
been in procuring a stock to begin with. I hope, however, 
that I shall soon overcome this. I am induced to hope 
they will answer here, by observing numbers of wild bees 
j (some of them very like our English honey-bee), and by 
the large number of wild flowers about the country. Can 
you inform me whether honey made from the Kalmia is 
poisonous ? I have been told that it is so by a gentleman, 
who referred me to “ Xenophon’s Anabasis ” in proot of it. 
He told me, also, that the bee-keepers in the State of Maine 
(U.S.) had great difficulty in getting good honey on that 
very account. If this is true, it will be a great impediment 
to me, as the flower abounds in our bogs and marsh lands. . 
—Joseph F. Phelps, St. John's, Newfoundland." 
[We are afraid that more reliable authorities than the 
“Anabasis” inform us that the honey from the Kalmia 
latifolia, the “Laurel," or “Calico-bush,” of America, is pro¬ 
bably poisonous. These authorities are Don, Catesby, and 
others. We should be much obliged by any of our readers 
giving us information upon this point.] 
TO CORRESPONDENTS. 
* t * We request that no one will write to the departmental writers of 
The Cottage Gardener. It gives them unjustifiable trouble and 
expense. All communications should be addressed “ To the Editor of 
The Cottage Gardener, 2, Amen Corner, Paternoster How, London 
Description of Plants ( J. Farnworth ).—Loudon’s “Encyclopaedia 
of Plants” is the only work that we know of comprising what you need. 
Botcher’s Broom {M. A.). —Will some one of our readers inform us 
where this plant (Ruscus aculeatus) can be found near Taunton. We 
know that it is not uncommon near Bristol. 
Rough Plate Glass {St. John’s).—We always use the ribbed, and 
with the ribbed side inwards. 
Blind Fowls (W. J.).— They are afflicted with blindness from many 
causes. What are the other symptoms ? What kind of fowls ? What 
food, &c. ? are all questions to he answered before we can reply. Other 
question next week. 
Cuttings (J. F. E.). —Pot all of them singly when the roots are an 
inch long. You may plant the bulbs of the Dog’s Tooth Violet now. 
All the bulbs you name will do very well in your compost. River sand 
is best. 
Oxalis Bowiei. —In describing this at page 384, col. 2, line 5 from 
top, instead of “ truss from seven to fifteen inches high,” it should have 
been “ truss from seven to fifteen in number.” 
Supplement to Loudon’s Hortus Britannicus (X. Y. Z.).—The 
last was published in 1850. 
List of Flowering Plants {Floriculture) .—We will attend to your 
wishes next week. 
Names of Plants (. Native of —).— Yours is Sparrmannia africana. 
(T. M. W .)—Saponaria officinalis. ( Garddior ).—1. Rhinanthus crista- 
galli, commonly called Yellow Rattle. 2. Lythrum salicaria, Purple 
Loosestrife. 3. Medic ago lupulina, Black Medick or Nonesuch. 4. 
Gnaphalium germanicum, the Common Cudweed. 5. Ranunculus par- 
viflorus, the Small-flowered Crowfoot. 6. Epilobium hirsutum, the 
Great Hairy Willow Herb. 7* Gnaphalium uliginosum, the Marsh Cud¬ 
weed. 8. Sherardia arvensis, or Field Madder. {M. C. E.). Why did 
you not number your specimens ? The two-coloured leaf is Calandrinia 
discolor; the head of flowers, Commelinu coelestis ; and the third, Sipfio- 
campylos bicolor. {Lancastriensis).— Yours is Calandrinia grandiflora . 
{Norwood) .—And yours, Calandrinia discolor. {A Constant Reader). 
1. Sempervivum tortuosum. 2. Cannot make out. 3. Mesembryanthe - 
mum cordifolium. 4. Sedum Sieboldii. Your insect is only the chrysalis 
of some one of our common white Butterflies. It must have been in the 
caterpillar state when you saw it travelling, and was seeking for a dry 
corner to change in. 
CALENDAR FOR OCTOBER, 
ORCHID HOUSE. 
Air; in fine warm weather, a small opening to allow fresli air to enter 
the house will be useful, both for the keeping down the temperature of 
the house, and changing the air. Bletias Bhould be put to rest by 
withholding water, and placing them in a pit or cooler house. Cycno- 
ches, Cyrtopodiums, and Catasetums. These plants should now be 
kept dry a few days in the warm house, and when perfectly so remove 
them into a cooler one. Fire may be applied to heat the hot-water every 
night, more or less, according to the state of the temperature out-of- 
doors ; raise the thermometer by day to /0°, by night let it fall to 60°. i 
Insects, look diligently after; every one destroyed now will prevent a 
host from coming into life in the spring. Lycastes, and other similar l 
plants should go to rest; place them on a shelf where they may be pro¬ 
tected from ever receiving any water. Plants that require to be placed 
in a place to rest may be known, first, by the full, plump, mature pseudo¬ 
bulbs, and, secondly, by the leaves turning yellow and dropping off. 
When in such a state, it is absolutely necessary to reduce the water and 
heat to prevent them from growing again prematurely. Plants that 
are growing should have their due share of water, and be kept mode- 1 
ratelv warm; some may require potting, and all will be the better for a 
top-dressing with fresh compost. Staniiofeas will now be at rest ; give 
no water till the spring. This month is a suitable season for providing 
materials for growing Orchids, such as fibrous peat, turfy loam, sphag¬ 
num or bog moss, branches of trees, and broken crocks; all these, duly 
prepared, and kept dry and warm, will be ready for us whenever they 
are wanted during the wet season. T. Appleby. 
PLANT STOVE. 
fEscnYNANTiius, reduce water to; prune in straggling branches. 
Air, give every favourable day. Achimenes, place in a cooler house, 
to cause them to give over growing and go to rest; give no water, and 
put them in a spot where no water or dry heat will reach them ; this rule 
does not apply to A. picta, which should now be in flower, and in its 
greatest beauty. Amaryllis aulica will now be showing flowers; 
remove it, as soon as the flower-buds are visible, from the tan-pit into the 
stove ; all other species of stove Amaryllis should now be at rest. Cono- 
clinium iantiiemum, or, as it is now called, Hebeclinium ianthemum , 
a winter-flowering, elegant stove plant, repot, and grow on to flow'er in 
February or March. Eranthemum pulchellum, and E. stnetum, 
treat similarly. Eranthemums, water with liquid-manure, to induce 
them to open their flowers freely. Gesneras should all be at rest, ex¬ 
cepting G. zebrina, which will now be one of the chiefcst ornaments of 
the stove. Justicia ; several species will now be in flower ; water them 
freely, occasionally using liquid-manure. Luculia gratissima, though 
not essentially a stove plant, will flower much finer early in the season if 
brought into the stove this month. Medinillas, young plants repot; 
older plants, keep partly dry and cool. Passion h lowers, trim in 
freely. Poinsettias, water freely, to produce fine head of bloom in 
winter. Rogiera amiena, and cordiflora, repot; place in heat, to 
bloom about Christmas; a new genus of dwarf, free, winter-flowering, 
stove-shrubs. Remove stove-plants kept in frames through the summer 
into the stove; water freely, to compensate for the loss of the moist , 
atmosphere of the pit. Water, apply very moderately to the general 
stock. Remove all decaying leaves, and top-dress generally. 
T. Appleby. i 
GREENHOUSE. 
Air admit freely during the day, but sparingly at night, unless the 
;hermometer out-of-doors be about 40°. Alstrcemerias, shift, or rather 
got in rich light soil, and place where they will be secure from frost, 
rhey thrive beautifully when planted out in a pit or border, where they 
;an be covered with glass in winter. Azaleas, remove into the house, 
-specially those that bloomed early, as the least frost will discolour their 
leaves. Bulbs, pot for early blooming. Cinerarias, forward ones 
rjive manure-water, and have secured under glass. Very little frost 
injures them. Camellias (See Azaleas). Calceolarias, strike 
cuttings ; pot forward plants ; prick off seedlings. Chrysanthemums 
for winter blooming, provide with shelter from cold rains and early frosts, 
and water with manure-water alternately with clean. Climbers on 
rafters now prune in, to give light to the plants beneath. Cleroden- 
drons, Gesneras, Lantanas, Achimenes, &c.,kcep in the warmest 
end of the house preparatory to resting them for the winter, or returning 
to the plant stove. Azaleas, Camellias, Fuchsias, &c., at the 
coolest. Cuttings of all kinds, especially late inserted ones intended for 
out-door work next season, keep secure from dampness. Very dull cold 
weather will be their greatest enemy. Be careful how you apply any 
artificial heat—it generally does more harm than good. Cytisus and 
Genista, scourge well with soap-suds, and then with clean water, to 
remove all traces of Red-spider, and then place where they can be 
sheltered before being housed at the end of the month. Erythrinas, 
