December 30. 
THE COTTAGE GAEDENER, 
239 
object, it will be found that The Cott.vge Gardener 
lias bad no mean share, whether it be as to eatables or 
I decorative matters : it has removed in its day no small 
amount of ambiguity, and, by tracing matters as far 
as possible up to first principles, so highly simplified 
every gardening process, that the owners of gardens 
may see at a glance whether things are progressing 
safely or not. It need scarcely be observed, that such 
adds much to the delights of a garden, and gives a con¬ 
fidence for increased exertions, and the outlay of more 
capital in garden structures, &c. 
Kidney Beans. —Although these may be obtained 
almost every month in the year, it is not expedient, in 
ordinary establishments, to attempt to obtain them 
before i'ebruary, which may be accomplished by plant¬ 
ing immediately. In order to direct the reader’s atten¬ 
tion to a due economy in the choice of objects for his 
glass houses, let us consider what conditions are requisite 
for the forcing and culture of this delicate vegetable. 
They are as follows;— 
1st. All the light it is possible to obtain. 
2nd. A temperature of air of (10° for the lowest. 
3rd. A liberal amount of atmospheric moisture ever 
present. 
4th. A position within a yard or so of the glass. 
In addition to these conditions, let ns add, that a 
slight bottom-warmth of 70° to 80° is a very desirable 
thing if obtainable, although they are very successfully 
cultivated in pots without it; when they are planted in 
the soil it becomes highly desirable. 
In considering, for a moment, the matter of light, it may 
be observed, that kidney-beans are very generally placed 
by gardeners in rows, on the kerb-stones of pits or houses, 
or on the back shelves of pine stoves or early forcing 
houses. Where such places are already occupied they 
may be forced very successfully in frames or pits, 
especially if fire-heat is applied, and a slight bottom- 
warmth can be obtained. If fermenting materials alone 
are used, the forcer must not begin until Christmas has 
passed, or the probability is his exertions will be rendered 
futile by excess of damp in the atmosphere. The tem¬ 
perature of air quoted previously must be well secured 
—Kidney Beans are almost as tender as Cucumbers: 
they may endure more cold, but under such circum¬ 
stances they cannot be rendered profitable. And now 
for culture. 
Soil. — They love a soil rich in decayed vegetable 
matters, but, like a great many other subjects con¬ 
nected with both in-doors culture and the open 
ground, this is only a part of the question. A steady 
permanency of moisture at the roots of plants sub¬ 
jected to the capricious fluctuations of forcing houses 
during dull periods in December and January, is a 
thing of greater import than even that of manures. 
However, Kidney Beans must have a generous soil; and 
■ the stability to which we have adverted must be sus- 
' tained by some sound loam in the compost. Again, as 
the season advances, and heat and light increases, so in 
like manner does an increase in degree of a sound staple 
become requisite. 
For early forcing, then, let there be—a compost of 
loam, leaf soil, and old manure, equal parts; and, for 
an advanced period, equal parts loam, and the other two 
conjointly. Now, this is the gardener’s soil generally, 
but let not our readers be daunted as to soils—almost 
any generous garden soil will answer very well, espe¬ 
cially if somewhat dark in colour. One thing may be 
observed, and that is — kidney-beans love not raw soils 
full of fresh organic matter, and this points at once to the 
eligibility of any sound soils of a generous character, 
where loamy matters cannot be had. 
Pots .—We think it the best plan to use five-inch pots 
for the first, and when the beans are become sturdy plants 
to shift them into seven or nine-inch pots; the latter. 
although best, require much room, but then the plants 
are moi-e productive. It is well to put five beans in 
each pot, and, when they are up, to thin to three ; thus, 
by striking out any two alternate ones, the remainder 
will be a triangle; and the beaus in triangles will—the 
pots properly placed—serve to economise space. They 
require hut little water until the pots become filled with 
roots; indeed, they should not receive a drop from the 
sowing until fairly up, or they may rot; the soil, there¬ 
fore, at sowing, must be moist, in order to avert the 
necessity of watering. 
In all the stronger kinds the central shoot may be 
pinched, as in Cucumber plants; this makes them more 
bushy, and less inclined to ramble; but we doubt the 
practice with such kinds as the Newington Wonder, 
and it certainly causes the crop to be a little later. 
When the plants are in blossom the use of liquid-manure 
may commence, and, if applied very weak, may he used 
constantly. We prefer this practice to strong doses, 
alternating with clear water, which latter plan is fitful 
in operation, forcing the plant into an expanse of foliage 
which is an overmatch for the root when the hour of 
trial arrives. The chief culture henceforth is to see 
that they receive regular attention as to watering; to 
sutt'er them to go long dry is at once to check their 
bearing, if not to stop it. They must not, however, be 
kept wet by any means ; a medium must be observed. 
Early Cdcu.'ubers—The dong bed. —It is now an 
excellent time for the majority of our readers to com¬ 
mence; by the time this goes to press wo shall have 
reached the shortest day, a subject of rejoicing with 
most, excepting those who cannot pay their Christmas 
accounts. It is of no use people commencing the cul¬ 
ture of this esteemed vegetable earlier, unless they can 
see their way as to plenty of warm manure. J anuary, in 
the main, is a light month ; and if the plants can be got 
I above ground by about the second week, capital chances 
I may he secured of cutting by the early part of March, 
1 which is pretty fair for ordinary cases. To this end, a 
j body of fresb dung, equal to the bulk of the intended 
i frame, must be immediately thrown together; shaking 
' much of the droppings-out, as they make it too fiery and 
hasten its decay; the object being to preserve the tex¬ 
ture of the bed as long as possible. But here a ques¬ 
tion arises: Do you make what is termed a seed bed’? 
j This is hy far the best plan ; and a little two-light 
frame, about forty inches wide, by seven feet long, is a 
most capital thing for rearing young plants in, both for 
early Cucumbers and Melons. A frame like this, made 
up in January, is admirably adapted for sundry pro¬ 
pagation or rearing purposes for many weeks afterwards: 
and it will also serve to rear successive crops of both 
Melons and Cucumbers. By the use of a “ seed bed,” 
the permanent, or ridging-out bed, of course, need not 
be built so soon by three weeks, and it thus retains its 
j power longer. 
I And here we may point once more to the necessity 
1 of a thorough working of the dung; without this the 
difficulty of culture will be much increased, as also 
the uncertainty in the issue. About four turnings 
must be resorted to, taking care that at each turning 
plenty of water is used, for this purifies as much as 
the air. Thus, a heap thrown together to-day, fresh 
from the stable door, may lie one week at first, then 
be turned, changing the interior to the exterior, and 
watering liberally. It may then lie about five days, 
and receive a similar turning; then another live—at 
this another copious watering; and again another 
four or five, and so on ; and at the last turning, if tree 
or shrubbery leaves are available, by all means add 
equal parts with the dung; this makes the best fer¬ 
menting material imaginable, and it will endure twice 
as long as the dung alone; besides that, the heat is so 
much milder, that with ordinary care it can scarcely 
