Januauy 27. 
THE COTTAGE GAKDENEB. 
323 
either shade or give air to suit certain cuttings, we run 
the risk of injuring others, 
3. “ Wijriinij bell-glasses cverg morning, or wiping the 
inside of a cold-frame to prevent the dropping of con- 
1 densed moisture.” Now here, in tlie first p)lace, in all 
tender and difficult cases, the expiosure necessary on 
wiping a frame would be injurious. Besides, unless in 
cold nights, in autumn and spring, there would be little 
condensed moisture, which will always be in proportion 
to the moisture within, and the diti'erence between the 
internal and external atmosphere. In all common soft- 
I wooded plants, the leaving a little air on at night, or for 
i a short time in the morning, will be sufficient. The 
wiping of bell-glasses did use to be a serious affair; but 
I have repeatedly shown how that trouble may be next 
to altogether abolished, by using conical, instead oi Jlat- 
headed, glasses. In the latter case, the drops would fall 
on the cuttings; in the former, it would trickle down 
into the soil. By using double pots, placing the cuttings 
in the inner one, and the glass between the inner and 
outer, I have frequently struck tender things, that after 
being first watered, never had the glass moved until it 
was seen the cuttings were fairly growing, and that, too, 
when from first to last they had enjoyed a fair amount 
of sunshine. Not now to speak of the slow decomposi¬ 
tion going on in such circumstances, it will at once be 
evident that the moisture raised by heat during the day, 
2 )laced the cuttings in an atmosphere in which they 
were forced to absorb, as well as perspire. The cold of 
night condensed that moisture, and returned it to the 
, soil, just ready to be brought up again the following 
j day by a something like perpetual-motion process, 
j 3rd. “Allowing that bell-glasses are not essential for 
j tender and hard-ivooded plants, and a useful auxiliary 
\ for solitary instances of experiments and propagation ; 
may they not be done icithout in the case of soft-ivooded 
Greenhouse Plants, and those now generally emgdoyed for 
summer decoration, for baskets, and flower gardens?" 
Yes, especially if propagation is confined to two periods— 
early in autumn, or in spiring. In the first case, they 
should be kept cool. In the second case, they will 
rejoice in the excitement of a slight hotbed. In the 
one case, a result is obtained with a minimum of care, at 
the expense of a maximum of time. In the other, time 
is gained, but care and attention are increased. In 
both cases, I prefer diffused to shaded light. If placed 
two or three feet from the glass, little or no shading will 
be necessary; but these matters have already occupied 
attention. 
4th. “ How many leaves should be left on cuttings?" 
This must depend upon whether they are large or 
small, and the lesser or greater means at your dis¬ 
posal for preventing them exhausting the cutting by 
evaporation. I have had cuttings root quicker with 
all their leaves on than those partly mutilated; but then 
they were placed in circumstances that nurtured and 
stimulated the vital energies. A medium path is generally 
the safest. When the leaves are large, it is best to re- 
' duco them, and thus lessen the perspiring, evaporating 
surface ; but no general rule can be given. In autumn 
it is advisable to cut to a joint, removing the leaves 
there, and either taking away or shortening a few above; 
i but in spring, with the assistance of a slight hotbed, there 
, arc many things, such as Verbenas and Calceolarias, 
[ that we would consider it a waste of time to cut to a 
joint or remove a leaf; but the vital forces are in a 
tlifferont condition then from what they are in autumn, 
i hth. “ What temperature should we give cuttings ?” In 
j autumn it should little exceed that in which the plant 
' stood. In spring it will always be advisable to raise it 
' a few degrees. This holds cipually true of tender or 
' stove pihints. Hence the ease with which such strike 
, generally in a hotbed under a bell-glass. When 
autumn planted cuttings are long in rooting, they may 
receive a stimulus by heat at their base when they have ; 
swelled or callused there. 
0th. “ How should I water cuttings ?” Thisis a matter 1 
of great importance. Let the utensils and materials be 
well soaked and drained before the cuttings are inserted, 
and water so as to make firm and fill every cranny on 
the surface. After that, I prefer dewing the cuttings 
instead of soalung the soil. This is particularly neces¬ 
sary in autumn-struck cuttings, if you would save them 
from dampfing in winter. Such plants, even when 
rooted, and you give them all the air you can in dull 
foggy weather, will flag when a bright sunny day comes, ! 
even when they are moist enough at the roots, just } 
because both leaves and roots have been enervated by 
the want of sunlight. In such cases, soaking away at 
the roots will only be the precursor of future cares, if 
not total disappointment. A slight tZerefny of the foliage, 
taking away the air, and, in extreme cases, a slight 
shading, are the proper remedies until the plants get 
used to the change. 
Here I must stop, and my apology for the length of 
the article must be the fact, that the matters alluded to 
will, ere long, be engaging the practical attention of our 
readers. K. ITsu. 
THE AURICULA. 
{Continued from page 30C.) 
Winter Treatment. —Of all the seasons in the year, 
this is the most difficult to carry the Auricula ship 
safely through to the desired haven of spring. The 
difficulty consists in, or arises from, the nature of our 
variable climate. In its native Alps the air is keen and 
pure, and the perpetual covering of snow keeps them 
from growing, and at the same time shelters them from 
extreme frost and the cutting winds; so that when the 
warm sun of April melts the snow, and warms the air, 
they spring into life and bloom almost like magic. Just 
in jiropiortion as we imitate this state of natural manage¬ 
ment or treatment will be our success; for although our 
Auriculas are, as my good friend Mr. Beaton would say, 
high bred, yet, constitutionally, they have the same 
character in regard to requiring a winter treatment, 
similar to their, perhaps, more hardy ancestors. 
The season for this winter treatment commences to¬ 
wards the end of October. They should then be placed 
with a full expiosure to the south. The best habitation 
for them is a cold brick-pit, placed upon an elevated 
stage of boards, with a flagged floor for it to stand upon, 
the floor sloping slightly to the front, and a convenience 
of giving air by means of sliding shutters in the wall, 
back and front, but as this is a rather expensive winter¬ 
dwelling, they may be kept very well in a common 
garden-frame, of a size proportionate to tbe collection. 
In this frame I should pirefer boards to set the plots 
upon, resting upion bricks, so that the air can pass round, 
upon, and under the pots, as well as among the plants. 
A free circulation of air is very important at this dull, 
moist season of the year. Should none of these articles 
bo conveniently had, they will do moderately well upon 
a bed of dry coal-ashes, so elevated as to bring the plants 
within six inches of the glass. 
Having them safely into their winter quarters, the at¬ 
tention they require then is to give them plenty of air on 
all favourable occasions, and to shelter them from severe 
frost by securely covering them up while it lasts. 
Should the frost roach them, great care must bo taken 
iir thawing them. The sun should never shine upon them 
whilst frozen. Keep a mat thrown over the glass till 
the frost is slowly overcome, and then they may bo 
exposed fully to it by drawing off the lights. Very little 
water will bo required during winter, the less the better, 
providing the plants do not actually flag for the want 
of it. 
