Januaby 37. 
THE COTTAGE GARDENEE, 
333 
from the use of caustic, and have cured a great many; before I used 
caustic, I lost more pigeons by the canker than all other diseases put 
together; if the old ones are ever so slightly affected, the young ones are 
sure to catch it.**—B. P. B. 
Fruiting Pines {Forebridge). should prefer planting - out 
Pines; but if you are very particular about succession, perhaps the pot 
system would suit best. Pots may be removed with the ripe fruit, and 
retarded in a cool room for weeks. This cannot be done by the other plan. 
Circulation of Air (1001).—Putting large bottles filled with hot 
water in cold pits, to promote a circulation of air, is of most importance 
in very dull still weather; but a little air must be left on by easing the 
sash at the top and bottom. Such bottles would also be useful in small 
! greenhouses in sudden frosts, when covering was defective. In such a 
I case, shut up close ; but when severe frosts come, it is best to keep shut 
I up, and depend upon sufficient covering. As has frequently been shown, 
' the plants will take no harm from closeness and darkness for a con- 
. siderable time, provided the temperature inside is such as neither to 
I excite them to grow, nor split their tissues by freezing. For cuttings, 
bell-glasses, ^c., see an article by Mr. Fish in this number. 
Combining a Greenhouse and Vinery (W.D.A .).—This subject 
will receive more attention before long. 
Roup in Shanghaes. — Mr. W. Lort says, “The best treatment I 
know of for roop or roup in China Fowls, is to remove the bird at once 
from the rest, wash its bill, nostrils, and throat well with salt and water 
warm, and place it near the fire, in a clean, well-aired basket or box, 
' littered with a little dry straw. Cram with three pills, each the size of a 
horse-bean, composed of equal proportions of chopped rue and butter. 
' The dose may be given again in twelve hours, and then discontinued if 
the bird appears to be too much relaxed; if not, repeat it alter the two 
first doses every twenty-four hours, until the discharge from the nostril 
has diminished. Feed liberally from the first (beginning an hour after 
the first dose of rue and butter) with bread soaked in water, and plenti¬ 
fully sprinkled with brandy. A small quantity of beef or mutton suet 
should be given every three or four days. As much ground ginger as 
1 will lie upon a shilling may be substituted for the brandy once each day, 
and as the bird improves, give a little well-soaked corn, and a few 
cayenne pods. Gravel or grit should never be withheld under any 
I circumstances from fowls in confinement. If scouring should continue 
after the rue and butter have been withheld for a day or two, mix baked 
wheat flour with the food. In the above treatment I attach much ira- 
' portance to the bird being placed in a dry, warrn place, free from 
draughts, and to the frequent cleansing of the nostrils. The brandy is, 
j doubtless, a great help.” 
Poultry.— Dyke had better write to some of the prize winners at the 
Great Metropolitan Show for the varieties he requires. 
, Black Shanghaes {E. Bafewan).—It is probable that there is no 
separate prize offered for these, because there is much reason to believe 
■ that they are merely the accidental production of a cross between the 
! white and buff-coloured birds. 
Damson Wine (i>. B .).— It must be left in the cask for some months 
I yet, and then be fined with isinglass like other wine, 
English Botany {C.N.S.). —SirJ. E. Smithes English Flora wWX 
i suit. The four volumes may be met with cheap enough at the dealers in 
second-hand books. 
' Work on Poultry (A. M.). —We have had no opportunity of exa¬ 
mining the work you mention. That which we referred to^ you will have 
seen advertized in our last number. 
; SiiANGiiAE Fowls. — V. Z. says:—“Four friends of mine here 
■ (Westmoreland) have each lost their Shanghae cocks of 1851 hatch. 
■ They all appeared to suffer in the same w^ay, beginning with lameness, and 
then gradually pining away, becoming complete skeletons. There appears 
to be a feeling that this northern climate will not suit them, and that cold 
is the cause of the disease ; they went with other fowls, in two instances, 
fin farm-yards, were well cared for, and tolerably well fed. Have other 
parties suffered in the same way, or what in your opinion is the probable 
cause? Do not those fowls require to be kept up, and have better treat- 
I ment than those usually found in the farm-yard ? *’ We do not think that 
Shanghaes are more tender than other varieties ; but we think that they 
are more liable to cramp, and loss of the use of their legs, by exposure to 
excessive wet. Such has been the character of the present winter, and 
probably more so in Westmoreland than elsewhere. Dryness and 
moderate warmth are the best preventives of such seizures. 
Eggs {G. Osburn). —It is quite impossible for us to answer for the 
goodness of those advertised. You must write to the parties and judge 
for yourself. 
Galvanised Iron Net-work {G, G.). —Read Mr. Fox’s advertise¬ 
ment. You will see what work on poultry we referred to, by our 
answer to “ A. M.” 
Grass Walk {Also an Old Stibsrriber). —We should have no objection 
to have a grass walk four feet wide within one foot of the wall on which 
your fruit is trained. 
Mr. Cooper {A. F. M.). —This gentleman, who obtained a Certificate 
of I\Ierit at the Great Metropolitan show, also exhibited at Winchester. 
You had better write to him. 
A Poor Man’s Well-wisher. —We have your paper, but prefer the 
sketch of your life. We shall be glad of any facts relative to weights, &c, 
Triptilion spinosum. — Typo enquires where he can obtain seeds 
of this ? 
Heating Greenhouse (^4. 5. W .).—You may heat this (thirty-five 
feet by twenty feet) by a boiler like that which heats your smaller house. 
We should use four-inch pipe, as you require high temperatures. The 
size of the boiler is immaterial, so that you have a surface of three square 
feet exposed to the fire. 
Edwardsia grandiflora. — E. P . B.y writing from the county of 
Dublin, says, ” In your number of December l6, there appears a notice 
from a correspondent, stating, as an extraordinary circumstance, the 
Edwardsia grandiflora ripening seeds in the open air. Perhaps it 
may not be uninteresting to you to hear of the same having occurred 
in other places. There is a large tree of it here (about 10 ft. high), 
which, for the last eight years, has ripened plenty of seeds in the 
open air, and it is a standard, facing a north aspect. I have numbers of 
seedling plants grown from the above seed. This in the County Dublin. 
At a place in the County Wicklow, near Rathdium, with which I am 
well acquainted, there are trees {standards) of both E. grandiflora and 
microphylla; both of which bear plenty of seeds. ’And, during a tour 
I made in 1851, through the County Sligo, I observed E. grandiflora 
with seeds on it; this plant was against a wall. These are the only 
plants with which 1 am acquainted; and I shall be most happy to send 
seedlings or seeds to you, if the carriage is paid. 1 may observe, that 
in all these places the Rhododendron arboreum blooms splendidly out- 
of-doors, especially in Sligo, for the plants I saw there had several 
hundred flower buds on them.” 
CALENDAR FOR FEBRUARY. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
Anemones, sow; finish planting, b. and e. Annuals (Tender), sow 
in hotbed; admit air to daily; water slightly; cover with mats the glasse.s 
at night; sow seeds of blue and white Campanula carpatica in heat, for 
autumn-flowering, e.; pot old plants of each, and put in heat for cuttings, 
b.; Nemophila, and other Californian annuals, to flower after 
autumn-sown ones; (Hardy) sow in borders, e.; for early blowing, sow 
in pots in a hothouse. Auriculas, dress, and attend carefully those 
under glass, as the buds appear. Biennials (Hardy), sow, e. Bulbs, 
finish planting. Carnations, plant, and shelter from cold winds. 
Dahlias, sow, and place tubers in hotbed, to break buds for slipping. 
Dress borders generally. Edgings of Box, &c., may be planted and 
repaired. (See January). Cut round the roots of evergreens, to remove 
about next July. Evergreens removed last autumn may have liquid 
manure in fine weather. Evergreens, plant in mild weather, e. Grass, 
roll and sweep weekly. Gravel, roll, and weed in dry weather, weekly, 
and try the concrete system. Hedges (Deciduous), plant, b.; (Ever¬ 
green) plant, e. Hyacinths, shelter, for they begin to appear. Mig- , 
NONETTE, sow ill pots, and place in hotbed, or hothouse, and green- | 
house, for succession. Neatness, attend to everywhere. Perennials i 
I (Hardy), sow, e.; plant suckers, slips, and partings of roots; (Half- 
’ hardy) uncover, if frosts gone. Planting of flowering shrubs, com¬ 
plete. Polyanthuses, sow; earth-up with rich compost. Potted 
Shrubs, prune, shift, and dress the soil; pot-ofl' bedding geraniums, 
&c., from stove pots. Ranunculuses, finish planting, b. and e. Roses, 
prune strong ones, and leave some to prune in April for late flowering; 
manure with cow-dung. Sowing of tree and shrub seeds, complete 
generally. Support, with stakes, &c., newly-planted shrubs. Tulips, 
shelter as they are now appearing. Turf may be laid, and see that 
plants are in heat for cuttings, such as Lobelias, Verbenas, &c. 
Climbers, such as honeysuckles and jasmines, should be pruned and 
trained in the early days of the month. Reduce to moderate-sized patches i 
such plants as phloxes, asters, veronicas, &c., otherwise they will occupy | 
too much space, injure their neighbours, and harbour vermin. Herba- \ 
ceous plants should be planted out from nursery-beds into the borders 
without delay. Half-hardy shrubs, &c., may have their shelters partially 
removed, closing them up again at night, according to the mildness or 
inclemency of the season. D. Beaton. 
GREENHOUSE. 
Air, admit freely among hard-wooded plants, such as Ericas, Epacris. 
Diosma, &c., when the atmosphere is clear, and the outside temperature 
from 35° to 40°. In damp, foggy, or frosty weather, it is better to use 
little firing, and keep the house more close, unless you have the means 
of heating, and so far drying the air before it is admitted—the drying, of 
course, to take place only when the air is loaded with moisture. When 
the fog gets into the house, light a little fire and give air, and it will soon ' 
be dispersed. All these plants will now want more water, but do not give 
it in dribblets ; after doing it thoroughly, wait patiently until the soil is 
getting dry. Those in full bloom may have similar treatment, especially 
if the sun will raise the house to 55°. Those swelling and opening their 
heads must not be lower than 45°, with 10° or 15° more in the middle of i 
the day. Azaleas and Camellias, place those swelling and bursting 
their buds in the warmest end of the house, and you may remove them j 
to the coldest end when in bloom. Supply such rather liberally with | 
water. Those to be retarded, keep as cool as possible, and not so moist, j 
Bulbs, Cinerarias, and Primulas, in flower, assist with manure- 
water ; the double Chinese Primula give a warm corner, as it is (especially 
the white) a splendid object when well grown. The night temperature of 
these should not be below 45°, if desired to keep them in full bloom, 
with 10° more in the middle of the day. Cinerarias, for blooming, do 
best at this season in small pots; those desired to make fine specimens in 
May and June, should not now be allowed to be pot-bound, or be stunted 
any way, but kept slowly growing. Forsythia viridisshna, Deutzia 
scabra, and Weigelia rosea, will yield their blossoms during this and the 
following month if slightly forced. Forced hardy shrubs keep at the 
warmest end of the house at first. Begonia obliqua makes a tine con¬ 
servatory plant in winter, if the night temperature is seldom below 45°. 
Calceolarias and Geraniums, keep at the best place for light and 
heat. All these soft-wooded plants require more heat than the hard- 
wooded ones; the former shift as necessary. The forwarrlest of the 
latter, stopped and shifted before Chrismas, tie out and train. Place in 
flowering-pots those stopped some time ago, and now breaking; and I 
stop more young plants for succession, to be shifted when the buds have 
broken again. Franciscea latifolia uniflora, do well in a conserva¬ 
tory at this season, if they had previously received a little extra heat, 
after being allowed to become deciduous in the beginning of winter, the 
wood being well-perfected previously. Fuchsias, start some favourite 
kinds, if you can, in a nice, sweet, slight hotbed, as at this season they 
stand a little bottom-heat well, though, when fairly started, a medium 
temperature makes better plants than a high one. Cut them well 
down, and thin the shoots afterwards to as many stems as you may J 
