March 3. 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
423 
I 
I Dryandra. —See Banlcsia. The same remarks on the 
' fitness of Ranksias for a preservative wall applies to 
i this allied genus. Any of the species are desirable for 
, the purpose, but the best are D. Jlorihimda, D. fonnosa, 
and D. tenuifolvt. 
' Edwardsi A GRANDiFi.oRA, a line shrub from New Zea¬ 
land, with large yellow flowers. 
E. jiicROPiiYi.i.A (Small-leaved).—Both these plants 
■ are sufficiently hardy to grow agninst a plant wall, with- 
! out heat, if sheltered in severe winters by a covering of 
glass, or even if covered with a common garden mat. 
In the south they do not require even that protection. 
Enkyanthus qui.vqueflorus and E. reticoi.atus.— 
Two line evergreen shrubs, with bunches of pinkish 
flowers, something like the flowers of an Arbutus. In 
pots they grow straggling and unsightly, but planted 
against a wall, and protected from severe frost, they 
form handsome objects. 
Erioisotrya japonica (Loqudt Tree).—This tree has 
been considered to require the greenhouse to cultivate 
it in. It is a fruit tree, and the fruit is much esteemed 
by the Japanese. Planted against a wall it is sufficiently 
hardy to bear our ordinary winters. I saw it in fruit in 
the gardens at Welbeck, two years ago, growing in a 
cold greenhouse without heat. I also have observed a 
tree of it growing in the open border in a garden at 
Chapeltown, near Leeds, in Yorkshire, where it had 
existed since the time that garden was owned by the 
late R. A. Salisbury, Esq., though it had never fruited. 
Planted in a preservatory it would thrive well, and its 
noble leaves and line appearance would be very attrac¬ 
tive. It would most likely fruit there, especially if it 
was grafted upon the Quince stock. 
Erythrina crist.a-galli (Cock’s-comb E.).—Though 
not strictly a plant for a wall, on account of its losing 
its shoots annually, yet this fine flower might he planted 
between two tall growing plants, and would fill up the 
space between them with good effect when growing and 
flowering. I have seen it growing in the open border, 
in front of a vinery, in the gardens of R. Harrison, Esq., 
at Aighburth, near Liverpool, where it was treated ex¬ 
actly like the Fuchsia; that is, the shoots were cut 
down, and the stumps protected by a covering of old 
tan. It had stood there for several years, and flowered 
abundantly every summer. 
j Escallonta machantha (Large-flowered E.). — The 
best of the tribe, and a fine plant it is. Nearly hardy, 
I but in the north it will require the protection of a pre¬ 
servative wall. In Messrs. Yeitch’s Nursery, at Exeter, 
it blooms freely without any protection; but the climate 
there is so mild. If there was plenty of space, other 
species of this genus might be grown in such a position, 
especially E. grandiflora and E. organensc. 
Eucalyptus. —The Gum trees of New Holland. Whore 
the wall is lofty, and there is plenty of room, these 
plants would make a line appearance, chiefly by means 
of their very fine silvery leaves. The blooms are not 
showy. 
Fousythia viridtssima (Greenest F.).—This is one of 
Mr. l^'ortune’s plants, sent by him from the North of 
China. The flowers are of a bright lively yellow, and 
appear on the previous year's shoots before tbe leaves 
grow. Flowering in the winter months, it is very desir¬ 
able. Requires the protection of a glass-covcred-wall, in 
order to produce its flowers in perfection. 
T. Appleby. 
('To be continued.) 
THE PELARGONIUM. 
{Continuedfrom page 40,5.) 
Ix my last papers on these splendidly flowering plants, 
I gave full directions how to propagate them by seed to 
raise new varieties, and by cuttings to preserve these 
varieties when raised. I shall now add a few lines on 
grafting, which is sometimes done for the sake of having 
two or more varieties on one stem, and this mode may 
also bo useful for such kinds as may be difficult to in¬ 
crease any other way, more especially some of the so- 
called Cape species. 
In the Royal Botanic Gardens, Regent's Park, there 
may be seen considerable numbers of Pelargoniums 
grown in the pyramidal form, that is, with an upright 
stem in the centre, clothed with brandies on every side, 
the largest and longest at the bottom, close to tbe pot, 
and gradually shorter all the way up the stem. Now, 
when I saw these plants grown in that style, the thought 
struck me that such plants were well adapted for the 
purpose of being grafted with several varieties, and 
would then be exceedingly interesting. Such growers 
as may choose to adopt this mode should first grow a 
plant or plants to form a pyramid, and then graft any 
varieties they may choose upon them : or, if they do not 
adopt that mode, they may be grafted upon a jilant 
grown in the usual bush fashion. The principal point 
to attend to is to graft upon any one plant such varieties 
as have similar habits of growth. For instance, it 
would not answer to graft a small-leaved weak-growing 
fancy Geranium on one branch, and a broad-leaved 
strong-growing kind of the ordinary varieties on the 
same plant, because, as may be easily conceived, the 
strong-grower would soon out-grow the weaker one. 
When it is determined, then, to graft any, place all weak 
varieties on a plant of similar habits, and strong-growers 
upon a vigorous-growing variety. Place the plants 
intended for grafting in a house a few degrees warmer 
than the greenhouse, and as soon as a free-growth is 
visible, then choose the scions or grafts from plants in 
the ordinary greenhouse. The bottom part of each graft 
should be half-ripened, and ns near as possible of the 
same diameter as the branch of the stock. 
The best mode of grafting is that known by the teinn 
cleft-grafting. It is done thus:—The stock is cut direct 
across, (juite clean and smooth ; the knife is theTi passed 
through the stem downward, about onc-and-a-half inches. 
'I'he graft is then made in the sha.pe of a wedge, with a 
knife so sharp that the bark on each side is not torn or 
jagged. The slit in the stock must then be opened with 
the point of a knife, and the scion put into it, fitting 
tbe bai'k exactly to the bark of the stock; then tie it 
with some thick worsted, twine, or common soft Ijass- 
mat, firm enough to keep the graft in its place. Place 
these grafted plants in a shady part of tbe warm house, 
and syringe them every evening and morning; they 
will soon unite and grow, and siiould then be removed 
into the greenhouse, and stopped to make them busby. 
The best season for this operation is the month of 
April, though it may be performed at any time during 
the summer; but if done early, they will flower well tbe 
next year. j 
Varieties that are difficult to propagate by cuttings ! 
may be increased by grafting easily. These should be • 
grafted upon small young ]ilants, or oven upon strong I 
roots potted at the time, and placed in a gentle hot- ! 
bed till the grafts grow, removing them then into the i 
greenhouse, and treating them the same as the rest that ; 
were increased by cuttings. This cleft-grafting is supe- ! 
rior to any other method, because the grafts take full | 
possession of the stock, and are then less liable to be i 
broken off or displaced. 
Summer Treatmicnt. — This season I suppose to ; 
commence iri iMai'ch. I shall take it for granted j 
that the stock of young plants are healthy, low, bushy j 
jilants, in u.V-inch pots. Now, to form a fine specimen, , 
such as wo see at the Regent's Park and Chiswick j 
Exhibitions, a plant in March should have, at least, five I 
branches, and plenty of fine dark-green foliage; the i 
