MAitcn 17. 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
401 
hardiness of the Lancifoliuin group, and it might be 
worth while for our coadjutors to settle the matter defi¬ 
nitively As to their fitness for ornamenting the green¬ 
house there can be no question. For autumn display 
wliat can bo more goi'geous? Several inquiries have 
reached me on tin's subject, but as I could not speak 
confidently from my own practice, 1 wrote to Mr. 
Mackie, gardener at Delafore Abbey, near Nortbampton, 
whose fine specimens I had repeatedly had the pleasure 
of seeing, and that gentleman immediately sent me the 
outline of his successful mode of culture. 
Cause of Comparative Failure. —These Lilies are 
most effective when grown in masses of from twelve to 
twenty stems in a pot. Two or three stems present a 
meagre appearance. Anxiety to increase the stock not 
only thus militates against the display, but the best 
bulbs are also apt to be hurt considerably by subdividing 
them. A simple plan of managing the small bulbs will 
prevent the necessity of interfering with the larger ones, 
when not absolutely necessary to reduce the size of the 
specimens.' 
Time of Potting. —Remove them from their winter 
quarters in February or March, just as the bulbs show 
signs of vegetation. 
Mode of Potting: Compost used. —Turn the ball 
carefully out of the pot, talte a pointed stick and dis¬ 
place all the decayed roots and as much of the old soil 
as possible, without injuring the living roots; at the 
same time, take the small bulbs from the stem, and 
such as become detached from the large bulbs, and 
place them aside in the meantime; then have suitable 
pots ready, well drained, with a good handful of moss 
over the drainage. The compost consists of two parts 
of turfy peat broken into lumps, one quarter part of 
fibry loam, and the remainder of that part well-decayed 
leaf mould and silver sand. 
The size of pot depends upon the number and 
strength of the bulbs. A pot fourteen inches across will 
accommodate twelve bulbs, and sustain tbrougbout the 
season from eighteen to tw’enty stems of blossom. For 
a single, large, very fine bulb, a nine-inch pot w’ill be 
found sufficient. Having determined on the pot, pro¬ 
ceed to place a portion of the compost above the moss 
and drainage, arranging it so that the upper surface of 
the bulb is at least three inches from the surface of the 
pot. This distance enables the stem to find nourishment 
for the largo mass of roots which it produces, and which 
I look upon as the main support of the flowering pro¬ 
cess. The bulb is then covered with the compost, but 
not finally, as lumps of peat are placed round the 
advancing stem during the early part of its growth, as 
often as rootlets are observed ; and this, with me, is 
sometimes contiTiued until the soil is two inches above 
the level of the pot. 
General Treatment.- —When potted, place them in a 
cool vinery, cold pit, or other cool structure, where they 
may be free from frost. Forbear watering until growth is 
visible. Let them so remain until danger from frost is 
over in IMay or June ; then place out-of-doors in a shel¬ 
tered place ; water freely, according to their wants, and 
let them, as muck as possible, have their otvvi tvag, until 
they have matured their growth, and are showing their 
blossom buds. By that time they will be from four to 
five feet in height, richly clothed wfith fine dark green 
lance leaves, and promising from six to fifteen flowers 
to each stem. Neat stakes are then used (not before) 
to bring the stems into an upright position, and the 
plants are removed into the conservatory to mature and 
expand their lovely blossoms, reward the labours of the 
cultivator, and to gratify, by their perfume arid con¬ 
trasted tints, the cultivated tastes of those whose love 
of the beauties of nature is w'ell exhibited by the ad¬ 
miration they bestow upon these lovely stars of earth. 
Young Offsets. These are placed to the number of 
six or eight in a nine-inch pot, and ti'eatcd in all respects 
like the older bulbs. The first year after such treat¬ 
ment they will flower, and by avoiding sub-division at 
potting-time a stock of good massive plants may soon 
be obtained. 
Winter Treatment. —When done flowering, let the 
stems remain until quite dead, or even until potting 
time, riace the plants in a cellar or other convenience 
free from frost. Keep them dry the whole time they are 
at rest. 
Mr. Mackie states, in conclusion, that he will be 
happy to give his out-door experience of these bulbs, 
and 1 am sure that Editor and readers will be obliged by 
his sending a paper to bead-quarters on the subject. 
R. Fish. 
PRESERVATIVE WALLS. 
{Continued from page 423.) 
LIST OF SUITABLE PLANTS. 
Gardenias. —It may startle some of my readers that 
I should recommend any of the species belonging to 
this genus as suitable plants for a wall of this descrip¬ 
tion, yet I have no doubt the species mentioned below 
are more hardy than is generally supposed. A heated 
glass-covered wall, I am quite sure, would bo warm 
enough for them. At Pine-Applc Place we always kept 
them in cold frames, or pits, ihrougb the winter; and 
in such structures they may be seen now looking healthy 
and well. They are protected from frost by coverings 
of mats and straw. As this is a certain fact, that they 
are hardy enougli to bear such a treatment, surely they 
will thrive in a preservatory, especially when their roots 
are not confined in a pot. Their line foliage, and splen¬ 
did, sweet-scented flowers, would make them highly 
ornamental for such a purpose. They would, it is true, 
bloom later in the season, but their flowers would even 
then be highly acceptable. The species suitable are— 
Gardenia florida (Flowery G.); the vaiieties arc— G. F. 
Forttinii, G. F. intermedia, and G. F. latifolia, and G. 
radicans (Rooting). 
FIabrothamnus fasciculatus (Bundle - flowered).— 
This fine shrub is peculiarly well adapted for this ))ur- 
pose. The flowers are produced in terminal clusters, 
and are of a rich soft crimson colour. They are about 
an inch-and-a-balf long, and of a tubular shape. The 
plant is nearly hardy, but will not bear a full south 
exposure. There are some other species, but not so 
handsome as the above. 
Heimia myrtifolia and H. salicifolia. —Two half- 
hardy shrubs, with neat foliage, and pretty yellow 
flowers, very little known, but well worthy of cultivation. 
Hovea Gelsii (Cel’s Hovea). — A beautiful blue 
flowered shrub, easily raised from seed, which is pro¬ 
duced plentifully every year. In pots it is apt to become 
straggling and unsightly, but against a sheltered wall it 
may be managed so as to be clothed with branches 
down to the ground ; the colour of the flowers is a most 
exquisite blue. 
Jasminum grandiflorum (Large-flowered Jasmine).— 
This plant is imported annually in great numbers by 
the Italian warehousemen in London, grafted upon the 
common Jasmine (Jasminum offeinale). It is hardy 
enough to live under glass without heat, but thrives 
and flowers better if planted against a wall heated 
with hot-water. The large corymbs of white deli¬ 
ciously-scented flowers which it produces render it a 
universal favourite. 
Lucui.ia GRATissiMA (Most Welcome L.).—This plant 
is usually grown in a cool stove, which is a great 
mistake, for it is nearly hardy, and would do well planted 
against a hot wall covered with glass. It would lose 
most of its leaves in winter, but would soon produce 
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