H 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
October 2. 
Night-soil and Peat Charcoal (W. TV.).—'This is a very powerful ■ 
manure. It may be, and indeed ought to be, dug in fresh. It will not 
do for potting purposes, unless it be in small quantities to potted Roses. 
To your standard Roses you may apply it, about a peck to each tree, and 
pointed in round their roots. 
Names of Plants (C. James). —Quite impossible to tell the name of 
a Verbena from single pips dried between blotting-paper. (Queen \ 
Mab). —Your plant is Penstemon glaberrimum. (A Cottager). —The fir- | 
leaved specimen is the Red Virginian Cedar, Juniperus Virginiana; and 
the other the Small-leaved Cotoneaster, Cotoneaster microphylla. To 
your Grapes, just ripening, give a little fire-heat during the day, with 
plenty of air at the same time. (A Subscriber). —The three flowers are of 
Epidendrum cochleare, and the single flower of Cattleya Forbesii, old 
species not much valued now. 
Cyclamens throwing up Flowers before Leaves (A Parson's 
Wife). —They have been kept rather dry, and the roots have in conse¬ 
quence suffered a little ; roots planted in a dormant state are frequently 
apt to do so, especially if placed in the heat of a sitting-room. 
Brugmansia sanguinea dropping its Leaves ( I.M.F. ).—A few 
of the oldest of these dropping, few gardeners would trouble themselves 
about. It likes rich feeding when in a pot. Though you state the con¬ 
trary, we should attribute the cause to an occasional neglect from the 
water-pail, and to a want of sufficiency of light and air. The plant that 
is so green, very likely has had more of these advantages, as well as the 
addition of the leaf-mould. Shortly after this season, we would not care 
if they became deciduous altogether, for then they could be wintered 
in any out-of-the-way corner safe from frost, and the rest would cause 
them to bloom all the finer next spring and summer. Of course, if 
they are to be bloomed on in autumn and winter, they must be kept 
j green. 
Leonotus Leonorus losing the lower Leaves (Idem). —This 
arises from similar causes ; and if it has bloomed well it is not much to 
be regretted, as it may shortly be cut down, or, when more exhausted, 
left as a partner with the Brugmansia until fresh growth commences in 
spring. If in full bloom, give plenty of air, water, and warmth. The 
reason of the leaves of plants getting yellow, in general, and chiefly as 
having reference to an lpomea Leurii, planted in the front border of a 
greenhouse, is too large a subject to be treated of here ; but we may 
mention that it takes place partly from exhaustion, partly from drought, 
! partly from being deprived of a sufficiency of light and air, and partly 
from the same cause that is bringing a few grey hairs on our head. In 
the circumstances, and considering the season, we do not agree with you, 
that the yellow leaves on the lpomea were caused by excess of moisture : 
rather the reverse. Moisture will only produce such an effect when the 
soil is sour and sodden, and the temperature is too low for healthy action. 
If your border was tolerably drained, neither of these causes could operate | 
a fortnight ago, and the broad leaves of this lpomea soon throw off a 
great quantity of moisture by evaporation. 
Propagating-house and Melon-pit. — A Subscriber will see that 
his case has met with attention. 
Ridge and Furrow, and Span-roofs (TV. L K. R,). —See what 
Mr. Fish says to-day. 
Bedding Plants (S. S.). —We know the garden in Essex to which 
you allude, and it is very likely that the Ageratum and Heliotrope are 
well managed together, by training both, or, at any rate, the Ageratum; 
but a much better plan is to plant Verbena Duchess Aumale, or Haidee, \ 
to give more flowers in a Heliotrope bed. The little red Cuphea does not 
do with the Zauschneria, being too dwarf. Every one wonders to see | 
the Zauschneria do so well with us : and the secret is, to take it up every 
April, divide it as we do the Campanulas, and plant the pieces quite ' 
thick. This keeps down too much foliage, and increases the number of | 
flower-spikes. The Carolina Fuchsia was recommended by Mr. Beaton 
till he was beaten by it; if you succeed with it, let us hear from you, 
nevertheless. Globosa major, ox an old one called sanguinea, will best 
suit your purpose; we saw a beautiful bed of the latter the other day at 
Chatsworth, but it will be difficult to meet with in the nurseries ; and we 
are surprised that any of our readers wish us to recommend one nursery¬ 
man more than another. There is not a true blue or a good yellow 
Verbena to recommend. Alona ccelestis is not a bedding plant, but a 
half-hardy plant to place against a wall; and when old, flowers freely— 
not otherwise. Chcenostoma polyanthu is an uncertain thing at the best. 
An order to a London nurseryman would procure the plants you want. 
Verbenas have been much mildewed this season, and Roses seldom escape 
it; but it is now too late for the usual remedy—sulphuring them. 
C. R. R. and other Correspondents. —If a question reaches our 
office on a Saturday, it will be answered, except from unforeseen circum¬ 
stances, in the next Thursday but one number. 
Oak-tree Moving (Vicarius). —The beginning of November is the 
best time to remove this pretty oak, and its safety depends on the roots. 
If it has many small roots, have it moved this autumn ; if not, prepare it 
for next year. Let the ground be opened four feet from the stem, first 
removing the turf carefully, and as deep as twenty inches; then, with a 
three-tined fork, remove the soil very carefully all round until you are 
within eighteen inches of the stem, and save every root you meet with. 
By this time you will see if they are numerous and small, or having small 
fibres on the sides; if this is the case, you may safely remove it, first 
reducing the diameter of the ball to eighteen inches or two feet, then 
working under it to find if there be a tap-root, which you will cut through, 
and the tree is ready to move; if, on the other hand, the roots are few 
and not fibry, cut the side ones to within two feet of the stem (the tree is 
young and not large), and let the tap-root alone; fill in the loose soil, 
and let it remain twelve months ; by that time the cut ends will have 
made abundance of little roots fit for removal. 
White Lilies (C. J. P.).~ We shall have a similar arrangement 
ready to appear next week. Meantime, deep, rich, light loam is the best 
for the White Lily, or loam, peat, and leaf-mould, or very rotten dung. 
They grow remarkably well in good peat alone; but if the situation is 
dry, they are more likely to suffer from a hot summer. The White Lily 
(Lilium cundidum) should be grown much more generally than it is, but 
on thin dry soil it does not succeed well, and in any soil it is one of 
those plants which delight in large doses of weak liquid manure from the 
time the flower-stems rise. 
Plants (Carrig Cathol).—Gardenia florida will do well in your green¬ 
house, where the Hoya carnosa, and the Dichorisandra (we do not know 
aurata), and Allamanda neriifolia, may live there. We cannot make out 
the name of the fourth plant. Your Picotee is pretty for a border-flower. 
We will inquire of Mr. Beaton. What you call an Althcca, is Hibiscus 
syriacus. 
Angola Rabbits. — Hoke wishes to know where he can obtain these, 
and whether they are valuable. 
LiauiD Manure for Roses (C. R. W.). —This may be made from 
the dung of sheep, deer, or horses. 
Diseased Potatoes (Ibid). —These have been used for seed with 
perfect success, but we should not select them for the purpose. The 
earliest time for autumn-planting potatoes is the end of October. 
London: Printed by Harry Wooldridge, Winchester High-street, 
in the Parish of Saint Mary Kalendar; and Published by William 
Somerville Orr, at the Office, No. 2, Amen Corner, in the Parish of 
Christ Church, City of London.—October 2, 1851. 
SUHrnttscnunts'. 
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flUTTA PERCH A TUBING FOR WATERING GARDENS. 
U TESTIMONIALS. 
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