78 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
OCTOBER 80. 
Gravel, weed and roll. Hedges, plant, clip, and clear at bottom 
Hoe and rake shrubberies, and bury the leaves, &c., between the plants. 
Hollyhocks, finish planting. Layering, perform at intervals, if fine 
weather, till March. Leaves, gather for compost, &c. Marvel of 
Peru, take up and store like dahlias. Mulcii round trees and shrubs 
] lately planted. Plant perennials and biennials (See October). Plant- 
' ing, deciduous shrubs and trees, perform generally, and finish as early as 
practicable. Potted Plants, forforcing, plunge in the earth of a well- 
sheltered border facing the sun. Prune shrubs and trees generally. 
Ranunculuses, plant for earliest bloom. Seedlings of them, in boxes, 
&c., remove to a warm situation. Weak Roses, prune without delay j 
1 very strong ones, delay pruning till March ; tender ones, secure from 
j frost with moss, fern, &c. Shrubs of all kinds, plant, stake, and mulch. 
Suckers, from roses and other shrubs, separate and plant. Tigridias, 
save from frost as long as possible j should not be dried till January or 
February. Tulips, finish planting, b. 1). Beaton, 
GREENHOUSE. 
Air, admit rather freely in mild weather. Azaleas, for blooming 
early, keep in the warmest end of the house, and they will not lose many 
of their leaves ; if the buds are well set and prominent, a few may receive 
the heat of a plant stove, to bring them in by Christmas ; those once 
forced will come earlier of their own accord again. Those for flowering 
in spring and early summer keep as cool as possible, so that the tempera¬ 
ture is above 35°. Bulbs, such as hyacinths, tulips, narcissus, &c., pot 
for spring flowering, and so manage them that roots shall precede flower- 
stems. Calceolarias, keep growing slowly, in an airy, moist atmo¬ 
sphere ; seedlings, pot off, and prick into pans ; cuttings of shrubby ones 
may now be potted, and cuttings may even be put in in the beginning of 
the month, in a cool, moist place. Camellias, finish setting in ; and 
the late ones may have their buds thinned, if necessary ; the earliest will 
now be swelling, and a little cow-dung water, cleared, and not too strong, 
will do them good; these should be placed with the forward azaleas. 
Cinerarias, encourage the forwardest to grow in a moist, gentle heat; 
keep those for spring and summer just moving. Climbers, however 
beautiful, cut back to give light to the other plants. Chrysanthemums, 
remove incipient roots from the axils of the leaves on the main shoots; 
thin the buds where too thick ; encourage with manure water ; and if not 
all in doors, have protection ready. Damp stagnant air, avoid. Fires, 
light in frosty and foggy weather, that air may be given ; but give arti¬ 
ficial heat during the day, rather than at night, unless the frost is very 
severe. Choose a sunny day, if possible, to light your first fire, as your flue, 
&c., will be more easily dried: it is no joke to be fixed in a stork-hole 
behind a fire that won’t burn. Furnaces ar.d Flues, clean out previously. 
Heaths and Epacrises, keep in the airiest part, especially the former. 
Genistas, Cytisuses, Coronillas, &c., syringe in a sunny day, and 
aid with manure water, to cause the bloom to open strongly. Gera¬ 
niums or Pelargoniums, encourage the old plants with a good position; 
train into the desired shape. Nip any luxuriant shoot, so as to equalise 
the strength; keep fresh potted ones just moving. Gompholobiums, 
Elatylobiums, Chorozemas, &c, place in double pots, that they may 
be more uniform in moisture, as extreme dryness and extreme wet will 
alike be their ruin. Plants, keep clear from dirt and insects, by washing 
and fumigation. Temperature, keep from 40° to 45° at night. Water 
only when necessary in dull weather: little will be wanted, unless for 
plants swelling their flower-buds ; for these use water warmer than the 
air of the house. A slight dusting with the syringe over the foliage will be 
serviceable in a sunny morning. Clean pots, paths, stages; tie, train, 
and fresh label in bad weather. R. Fish. 
FRUIT-FORCING. 
Air, admit with freedom, maintaining sufficient fires to that end. 
Bark-beds renew for the winter, sustaining bottom-heat of from 70° to 
80° for a while. Cucumbers, keep up a moist heat of 70°, rising 10° in 
sunshine. House-borders dress ; keep a porous surface. Fire-heat 
sustain, in order to be able to ventilate freely. Insects of all kinds 
subdue before winter. Leaves, clean all by sponge, &c. Melons, 
support a bottom-heat of 75°, and secure 70° top-heat; in sunshine rise 
15°; ventilate freely. Pines re-arrange, if necessary, for the winter; 
keep strong linings to dung-pits, and ventilate freely. Give water hence¬ 
forth very sparingly. Protect outside borders from wet and cold. 
Vines, prune, strip bark, and cleanse for forcing ; begin with a tempera- 
i ture of 50°, by fermenting material if convenient. Late grapes, use fires 
j freely in the day, and abundance of air. Sulphur for the red spider and 
mildew in all structures. 
ORCHARD. 
Apples finish gathering, b. Berberries gather. Bush-fruit 
prune and plant. Figs, pull off late fruit, b. Fruit-room, ventilate 
freely. Medlars get. Pears, finish gathering. Peaches and Nec- 
tarines, cleanse the leaves from, e. Nails, draw where necessary, and 
prepare in wet weather. Strawberries plant and dress. Stones of 
fruits sow. Top-dressings apply. Protect British Queen Straw- 
\ berries, or other tender things. Medlars and Services gather, e. 
Plant all kinds of deciduous fruit-trees. Prune all fruits, but Figs, 
j as soon as the leaves are off. Vines, protect late fruit. 
ORCHID HOUSE. 
Air will seldom be required during this month; keep the air inside 
much cooler, because most of the plants ought now to be in a state of 
rest. Baskets, plants in, should only be syringed ; they ought to be so 
placed that the drip from them may fall into the walk. Division : 
such plants as Stunhopeas, Gongoras, and Acropeia, may be divided this 
month, with a view to increase them ; give these no water till they start 
into growth again. Heat : the thermometer in the warmer house should 
be allowed to fall to 58° in the night, and never exceed 70° by day; 65° 
without sun will be sufficient. Potting will be required occasionally; 
even at this untoward season of the year some plants will grow, and, 
therefore, must be potted, because if delayed the young roots will begin 
to push, and then it is difficult to pot without breaking them. Rest: 
keep all the plants possible at rest for the next two months ; the means 
are, a cooler and drier atmosphere, and no more water at the root than is 
absolutely necessary to prevent the pseudo-bulbs perishing. Syringing 
will be necessary to plants on blocks two or three times during the i 
month. Water, apply sparingly, except to plants growing; to these a i 
larger quantity may be given. T. Appleby. 
PLANT STOVE. 
Air will still be necessary to this department; give it early in the 
forenoon, and close the opening by tw'o o’clock. To sweeten the air, 
light the fires early in the morning, and give air accordingly ; this will 
allow a large body of fresh air to enter the house, which will displace as 
( much foul air. Cuttings of stove plants should all be potted off early 
this month if rooted. Bulbs should now generally be at rest; keep 
them dry and moderately cool, to prevent a too early excitement. Forc¬ 
ing-flowers for this department should be commenced slowly, early in 
the month, such as Azaleas, Lilacs, Laburnums, Rhododendrons, Roses, 
&c. These will flower in December or January. Winter-flowering 
Plants will now be showing their flowers. They should have a moderate 
supply of water, and occasionally a watering with weak liquid-manure. 
Keep every part of the stove perfectly sweet and clean ; remove all decay¬ 
ing leaves as they occur; stir up the surface of the soil in the pots, to 
prevent moss and weeds from appearing. In this month, a supply of the 
different soils, manures, and vegetable mould, should be procured. 
T. Appleby. 
FLORISTS’ FLOWERS. 
Anemones may yet be planted, excepting the finest double ones. 
Auriculas and Polyanthuses; no delay must take place in putting 
these into winter quarters, if not already done. Scatter occasionally 
amongst the pots a layer of very dry ashes; which will absorb the moisture. 
Carnations and Picotees, finish taking off the layers, and potting 
them; place them in cold frames, giving plenty of air every day. 
Dahlias, cut down when frost bitten, and cover the roots with a small 
hillock of coal-ashes, or take them up at once, and reverse the roots, to 
allow the moisture to run out of the hollow stem. Number every root, 
and put them by in a dry, cool place, where no frost can reach them. 
Fuchsias, done blooming, prune in, and give no water to, for a month. 
Hyacinths, finish planting, both in pots and beds. Irises, both 
Spanish and English, plant in a rich soil and open situation. Nar¬ 
cissus, pot and plant out in the beds. Pinks plant out early; fasten 
firmly, to prevent the frosts from drawing them out. Ranunculus- 
beds prepare. Turban variety plant in beds and pots, the fine-named 
varieties do not plant till spring. Tulips, plant on or about the 10th of 
the month; choose a dry day for doing tbis. Verbenas, take up and 
pot, dressing-off the straggling branches; their cuttings shelter from 
early frost. All Florists’ Flowers in Frames and Pits keep mode¬ 
rately dry, clear of weeds, and decaying leaves. Search for Slugs and 
other vermin daily. T. Appleby. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Artichokes, winter dress. Asparagus-beds, dress ; attend to that 
in forcing, and plant in succession. Beans, plant a good main crop 
toward the end of the month. Beet (Red), dig up for storing. Bro- 
coli, lay down or remove to other warmer situations with good balls of 
earth; take care not to injure their leaves. Cabbages, plant or prick 
out into nursery-beds. Cardoons, earth up, b. Carrots, dig up and 
store, b. ; leave or plant out for seed. Cauliflowers, prick out in 
frames, &c., for winter protection, pay particular attention to airing in all 
fine weather, both hand-glass crops and otherwise. Celery, earth up 
in dry afternoons, having the earth all forked up previously. Cole- 
worts, plant. Composts, prepare, and always have a supply in the 
dry for immediate use. Cucumbers, attend to in forcing. Draining, 
attend to where required. Dung, prepare for hotbeds. Earthing-up, 
attend to. Endive, tie up for blanching or otherwise; pay particular 
attention to protection. Garlic, plant. Herbary, clean, &c. Hoeing, 
attend to ; on a fine afternoon never lose a favourable opportunity for this 
or any other kind of work. Horseradish, dig up and lay in the prime 
for use, and replant. Hotbeds, make for salading, &c. Jerusalem 
Artichokes, dig up and store. Leaves, continually collect into some 
corner for future use. Lettuces, plant in frames ; attend to those 
advancing. Mint, plant; force in hotbed. Mushroom-beds, make; 
attend to those in production. Onions, in store, look over; (Potato), 
plant. Parsley, plant some in a frame for use in snowy weather. 
Parsnips, dig up and store, b.; leave or plant out for seed. Peas, of 
the best early kinds, may be sown toward the middle or end of the month. 
Potatoes, attend to those in store, or dig up, should any remain out. 
Rhubarb, clear away decayed leaves, and top-dress ; also pot-off any 
number of plants that may be required for early forcing, to bring into the 
forcing structure as wanted. Radishes, sow, in hotbed. Salsafy, 
dig up and store. Scorzonera, dig up and store. Sea-k ale, pay particular 
attention to the removing of all the decayed leaves, &c.; top-dressing, 
covering up with fermenting materials, or other modes of forcing. Seeds, 
dress, and store. Shallots, plant, b. Small Salading, sow ; sow in 
hotbed. Spinach, thin, earth-stir, and keep clear of decayed and fallen 
leaves. Thinning, attend to. Trench, ridge, &c., vacant ground. 
Turnips, attend to thinning out, or hoeing the late sown crops, and 
should the weather be inclined to set in very severe, any number of tur¬ 
nips that are full-grown, may be taken up and stored for winter use. 
Spading-in is often better than the hoe. Always Cover-up a little 
earlier on the appearance of frosty nights. Also look over your Brocoli 
quarters of a frosty-looking evening. See if any are fit to cut, or if their 
leaves need to be broken down over the heads as a protection. 
T. Weaver. 
London: Printed by Harry Wooldridge, Winchester High-street, 
in the Parish of Saint Mary Kalendar; and Published by William 
Somerville Orr, at the Office, No. 2, Amen Corner, in the Parish of 
ChristChurch, City of London.—October 30th, 1851. 
