November 0. 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
87 
They will not stand quite such hard treatment as the 
I old ones, and require at all times the protection of glass, 
| chiefly as a means of obtaining light, when other coverings 
i could not well be removed. I have said struck in Septem- 
j ber, because I have found the middle of that month the 
best time for inserting short stubby cuttings of all these 
shrubby Calceolarias. There is less difficulty with them 
in the middle of October, than in trying them in the 
middle of July and August. I have even inserted the 
cuttings in the beginning of November, and they have 
done well. A cool, moist atmosphere is what suits 
them; and this, even after being struck, they must 
have during the winter. If kept in windows, they will 
be better for double pots, the space between being stuffed 
with moss, and that kept moist, especially on the surface. 
A moist atmosphere will never do them harm, if kept in 
motion. I think that much trouble with young plants 
of these and other things, such as verbenas, will be 
saved, when, instead of keeping them, as now, in pots, 
pits, and frames, we can command their hardihood 
by pricking them out in prepared soil, just as we would 
beds of young celery plants in spring. Provided we 
judiciously guard against damping, plants are less easily 
injured by variations when planted, than when kept in 
pots. Last season, at this period, verbenas, &c., pricked 
out thickly in an earth-pit, with old lights laid over 
them, thoroughly beat out of the field those potted and 
honoured with house treatment,—like the Scotch Kale 
in the kitchen garden, with them it was literally “ cut 
and come again,” an advantage that was experienced by 
many who wanted cuttings, as well as myself. By fol¬ 
lowing such a plan, and transplanting a time or two, the 
most of those plants that form fibrous roots, might be 
taken to their summer residence without previously 
having come into contact with a pot at all, and flourish, 
as 1 find, none the worse in consequence. 
There were other matters I intended alluding to, but 
my space is filled. The same remarks apply to a great 
proportion of our half-hardy plants, and I shall be gra¬ 
tified if those with limited means can find something 
that will suit them. R. Fish. 
HOTHOUSE DEPARTMENT. 
EXOTIC ORCHID ACEiE. 
plants that thrive well in pots ( Continued from 
page 50) 
Triciiopilia marginata or coccinea (Bordered-lipped 
or scarlet T.); New Grenada.—Sepals and petals greenish- 
white, and in the centre of the flowers there is a rich 
large spot of a dark scarlet colour. The pseudo-bulbs 
stand upright; they are about five inches long, of equal 
breadth the whole length, and are flat, nearly approaching 
to strap shape : the foliage is rather small, and is placed 
upon the ends of the pseudo-bulbs. This is a new 
species, and very desirable. 42s. 
T. suavis (Sweet T.) ; New Grenada.—The flowers 
; are of a pure white ground, thickly spotted in the 
| centre with deep rose; pseudo-bulbs short and roundish ; 
; leaves medium size, one or two upon each bulb, and one 
i or two surrounding the base; very fragrant. This is, 
1 also, a new species, with the largest flowers of the whole 
genus. A handsome desirable species. 42s. 
T. tortilis (Twisted T.); Mexico.—Sepals and petals 
i brownish yellow, slightly barred with brown, curiously 
twisted like a corkscrew; the lip is white spotted with 
red. A handsome free-flowering plant, much esteemed. 
15s. 
Culture. —These plants are found growing in the 
cooler parts of South America: hence they will thrive 
well with us in the cooler Mexican house. Soil. —The 
usual compost of rough peat, chopped sphagnum, broken 
crocks (potsherds), and charcoal, will grow them in a 
satisfactory manner. They will be benefited, however, 
if some half-rotted tree-leaves be mixed amongst it, and 
the best kinds for that purpose are those of the oak or 
the beech. Potting .—The season for this operation is 
early in the spring; at which time, if the rest has been 
duly attended to, they will be beginning to grow. Pro¬ 
vide against the time a sufficient quantity of the com¬ 
post, and let it be put in a warm room to be well 
aired. Have also ready, plenty of broken pots of 
three sizes; the largest to be placed over the hole 
or holes at the bottom of the pots, the second size 
upon them, and the third upon the second; these last 
should not be larger than hazel nuts. The whole 
should occupy at least half of the pot. Upon this drainage 
place some of the roughest of the compost; then bring 
the plants to the pottiug-bench, which should be in a 
warm shed, turn them carefully out of the pots, and pick 
away from the roots as much as possible without injur¬ 
ing them of the old soil; clean the leaves from dust 
and dirt with a sponge dipped in tepid water, and at the 
same time look out diligently for all kinds of insects, 
and wash them off too; then let the leaves become 
moderately dry, and after that repot the plants. 
T. tortilis should be well elevated above the rim of the 
pot, because the flowers spring from the base of the 
bulb, and have very weak stems. The weight of each 
flower is so much that the weak stems cannot support 
it, but if the plant is raised up an inch or two above the 
pot, the flowers are then seen to the best advantage. 
Mr. Schroder, of Stratford, near London, exhibited a 
plant of this kind so raised up, and very handsome it 
appeared. It measured more than a foot across, and 
had nearly forty blooms upon it. As soon as the plants 
are potted give a brisk watering from a syringe, forcing 
the water out with some force. This makes the compost 
firm and close, and it will not then be so easily washed 
off' by after-waterings. Water, give freely during the 
time the plants are growing and forming new pseudo¬ 
bulbs, but as soon as these have attained their full size, 
reduce the watering very considerably, and when they 
are at rest in winter give no more than is necessary to 
prevent them from shrinking. Heat, in summer, by day, 
with sun 70° to 75°, without sun 5°, or thereabouts, 
less; by night, 55° to 00°. When at rest during autumn 
and winter, 00° by day and 52° by night will be amply 
sufficient. A moist amosphere should be kept up when 
the plants are growing, and a drier one when they are 
at rest. As most orchids grow at the same time as 
Triciiopilia , the same treatment applies to all. 
T. Appleby. 
FLORISTS’ FLOWERS CULTURE. 
The Ranunculus {Continued from page 64). —In our 
last essay on the culture of these elegant flowers, we 
gave full directions for planting them, and described 
the protection necessary for them during the early 
months of spring. The next head into which we shall 
divide the subject is 
Watering .—To succeed satisfactorily in growing and 
blooming the Ranunculus, the operation of watering 
must be diligently attended to, especially in dry weather. 
In order to do this effectually, it will be greatly advan¬ 
tageous to have the beds perfectly level, and each bed 
should have an edging either of narrow boards, or long | 
narrow slates, which should project an inch, at least, j 
above the level of the bed. This edging will check the 
water running off the bed into the walks. Previously 
to the first watering, immediately after the plants have 
broken through the soil, and when the surface is mode¬ 
rately dry, tread the soil between the rows down pretty 
firmly with the foot. Tread one side of the bed first, 
and then the other; this will prevent the necessity of 
treading upon the bed with both feet at once, which 
