November 27. 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
125 
or ornamental, or, indeed, as combining both principles, 
which they are eminently capable of doing. Every one 
knows that this currant is very fleeting in character 
when ripe, and although not so much esteemed in the 
dessert as some other fruits, yet there is a class of pa¬ 
lates to which it is peculiarly agreeable; whilst its 
wholesomeness and medicinal qualities to the invalid, 
or persons in a convalescent state, will be at once ad¬ 
mitted. Now, the Black Currant cannot be secured on 
the trees when ripe above three weeks, as far as we are 
aware, retarding therefore should be had recourse to ; 
and there is little doubt that such, managed with judg¬ 
ment, could be made to prolong their season a couple 
of months. How to perform this will be discussed in 
its proper place; it is merely named here, to point 
to a triple purpose in adopting espalier strained-wires, 
viz., increase of quality and size, retardation, and a sub¬ 
serviency to the decorative character of grounds. 
In all “ slips,” or those plots in small gardens where 
an intermediate or transition plot exists between the 
lawn and the kitchen-garden, we may frequently employ 
some gardening device of an artistic character; such 
matters, properly managed, ingeniously conceal the 
cramped features of the place if small, by keeping the 
mind of the visitor constantly employed, and even by 
mere multiplication of details. In the flower-border, 
flower masses of simple forms for the ladies to cut 
bouquets from, together with the hollyhock, dahlias, 
huge asters, delphinums, &c., might be appropriately 
combined with the standard rose promenade, and orna¬ 
mental fruit trellises. However, as we find we are 
approaching the confines of our coadjutors, we must 
beat a speedy retreat, and withdraw our forces into the 
i cabbage territory. And now, having pioneered the way 
! for the “ rest-pruner,” let us suppose a time-lionom-ed, 
venerable-looking personage standing, knife in hand, 
over the devoted bush. With eagle’s eye, he first 
surveys the general outline, to see if, without sacrifice of 
any importance, he can improve the figure of the bush, 
aud pave the way to symmetry, so much admired, whe¬ 
ther in a bush or a building. This done, perhaps severe 
amputation becomes necessary, and, if so, it is performed 
before thinning-out is accomplished. He now proceeds 
to thin-out cross-grown, or interior shoots, that is to say, 
providing the bush has shoots to spare; and, indeed, 
having done this, he may almost put his knife in its 
sheath. 
It may be proper to observe, that shortening hack is 
not resorted to by system; the wood is generally left 
untouched in this respect, unless it has been blighted 
in the previous summer, and is, in consequence, much 
i distressed when it becomes expedient to remove portions 
! which appear immature, or not subservient to the end 
in view. Shortening-back is also had recourse to in 
young bushes, for the purpose of “ making wood,”—a 
gardening technicality, signifying that, by the removal 
of a part of the terminal point, an increase of the side- 
shoots may be expected, and this is almost certain to 
be the case; indeed, by such means must the neces- 
I sary form be created. And now, as to the average 
distance to which the young shoots should be thinned. 
Perhaps it will be well to advise on the tldn side of the 
question. From three to five inches may be considered 
l a very proper distance in ordinary cases; and, in stating 
distances, it is necessary to allow some latitude, as the 
young shoots will, under all circumstances, grow some¬ 
what irregular. Of course, a wise pruner will leave the 
young shoots rather thicker at the exterior portions of 
the bush than in the interior; and why? because at 
the exterior they receive more light, and this, in con¬ 
junction with a well-fed root, is the stepping-stone to 
succeed. Thus far the Black Currant; next may come 
The Raspberry. —Those who have been accustomed 
to prune, stake, &c., this bush-fruit in February, or even 
March, will be apt to think that we are in a hurry, and 
that there is little occasion to press such matters now 
when they are so very busy. But “procrastination,” sang 
the poet, “ is the thief ot time;” aye, and it can steal 
Raspberries too ; for with all fruits which bud somewhat 
early, and which depend, in the main, on robustness of 
habit lor good cropping, it is of importance to prune as 
early as possible, in order that no strength be thrown 
away. Besides, although good gardeners are always 
busy, yet the pressure of business is nothing so great 
in the autumn as in the spring. 
We may here again just advert to the great eligibility 
of a strained wire espalier fence for training the Rasp¬ 
berry on; by which plan they will be produced in the very 
highest perfection. And such might be made either to 
accelerate or retard this fruit by a little management. 
A trellis of this kind, placed a few feet from a building, 
a wall, a fence, or even before a hedge, would, according 
to the amount of favourable circumstances, accelerate 
their ripening; of course the position just reversed would 
produce the contrary effect. Whilst thus digressing, let 
us observe that those who want to retard the summer 
Raspberry—say “ The Fastolff ”—should select a cool 
soil; that is to say, one inclining to adhesiveness, and, 
it possible, of a dark colour. If such cannot be secured 
in the locality, strong and adhesive loam may be mingled 
with the ordinary soil if light, and a naturally humid 
position chosen. By such means, and by pruning back 
a second time,—as rose-pruners retard their Moss and 
Provence roses,—we have no doubt that the Fastolff 
Raspberry might be run on until the double-bearing 
took up its labours. 
As for the principle of cutting-back after breaking, we 
have tested it fairly; it is only waiting until the rasps 
bud a quarter-of-an-inch, and then cutting a few inches 
of the most advanced buds away. Of course, a slight 
loss of power is experienced; this, however, is easily got 
over by top-dressings, dung-water, &c. As for the old 
Moss and Provence roses, we have for years retarded 
them by such means, for our worthy employer, being a 
parliamentary gentleman, cannot get down here until the 
rising of the House, by which period the old Moss and I 
Provence or Cabbage roses would have made their 
devoir for the season. Mr. Beaton could discourse 
excellent things by taking this subject for a text. 
As to the rest-pruning of this bush, it is extremely 
simple. Those who want to make new plantations, 
should do so forthwith; a piece of business, indeed, 
best done in the first week of November, at latest. The 
fact is, the surplus suckers must he drawn away before 
the pruning is performed. All healthy shoots produce 
several more offsets or suckers than are needed; for 
about four, or, at most, five, are amply sufficient for the 
succeeding crop. The pruner, therefore, must draw 
away the supernumeraries first, making a clever selec¬ 
tion of good canes for the next crop. When the canes 
are very exuberant, those of medium character may be 
reserved; but when not coarse, let the strongest be 
retained. In fact, they cannot be too strong, if they 
have not produced axillary shoots, that is to say, if 
the young canes have not burst into side-shoots during 
the summer, for such have a tendency to barrenness. 
As was observed a few weeks since, new plantations 
may be made by removing the suckers in clusters, when 
they can be obtained, it not being unusual to meet with 
about three in a group, with a large cluster of earth 
adhering to them. These will, with care, fruit tolerably 
well the first summer. 
The remaining canes must now be shortened back, 
removing immature or very crooked portions. Most 
old practitioners cut them back exactly even, thinking 
they look neater. This, however, is a sacrifice totally 
uncalled for, and neatness has nothing to do with this 
part of the case. Let common sense, therefore, prevail; 
