242 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
January 15. 
small particles that may be made in the process of 
chopping. It a few small pieces of charcoal are added 
they will be useful. The three former articles mix in 
equal quantities, adding the charcoal afterwards, and 
mixing it equally through the mass. Then, when the 
plants begin to grow, turn them out of their pots, and 
gently shake the old soil away from their roots. Let all 
dead roots be trimmed clean off, but preserve the living 
ones with the greatest care. Fill the new pots half full 
of drainage, place some of the roughest pieces of the 
compost upon the drainage, and raise it in the pot high 
enough to allow the plauts to be elevated two or three 
inches above the rim of the pot. Place the plants in the 
centre, working in the compost among the roots, pressing 
it gently down. The plants will feel loose on this hillock 
in the centre, and will require support: thrust in amongst 
the compost some short sticks, and tie each pseudo-bulb 
to them in such a manner as to hold the plants firmly in 
their place. Press the compost close to the sides of the 
pots, so as to leave a little space below the rim, to prevent 
all the water from running off down the outside of the 
pots; then give a good watering, forcing it rather strongly 
through the rose of a syringe. This settles the compost 
close to the roots of the plants. When all are finished, 
place the plants upon the stage or platform, not far 
from the glass; give them the usual treatment of plenty 
of heat (70° to 75° by day, and five or ten degrees less 
at night), moisture in the atmosphere of the house, and 
a moderate supply of water at the roots when growing. 
As soon as the year’s growth is perfected, reduce gra¬ 
dually the heat to 60° by day, and the due proportion 
less at night, giving them almost no water, and a drier 
atmosphere. With due attention to these points, the 
plants will soon become healthy and strong, and pro¬ 
duce their fragrant flowers abundantly. 
The remainder of the genus are more robust in habit, 
and require a stronger compost. In addition to the 
peat, sphagnum, &c., we have found the addition of one 
part ot fibrous loam useful. This appears to give a 
more robust growth to these stronger-growing species; 
the pseudo-bulbs become larger, the leaves loDger and 
broader, and are then able to produce flower-stems more 
numerously, more flowers on each, and the individual 
flowers much longer and more highly coloured. 
Mr. Butcher, who was gardener at Ealing Park some 
years ago, was very successful in cultivating this stronger 
portion of the genus. He says, in describing his method 
of treatment—“ When the plants are commencing their 
growth, generally about the month of October, a pot of 
suitable size is filled three-parts-full of potsherds, and 
the remainder with close peat, which is raised about 
three inches above the rim of the pot; the plant is then 
secured in its position with small pieces of close peat, 
fastened down with pegs of wood. I prefer close peat 
for these plants, as J have found it do better than in 
lighter and more fibrous peat; the plant so potted is 
then placed in the orchid house, temperature ranging 
from 60° to 70°, the atmosphere moist, the plant kept 
moist, and most liberally supplied with water as it 
advances in growth. When that is completed, the plant 
is removed to the plant stove, where the temperature 
ranges from 50° to (50°, and water is given sparingly; 
but the plant is never allowed to become quite dry; it 
there remains till it again commences growth, when it 
undergoes the same treatment as before.” With all this 
we agree, excepting we prefer the addition of fibrous 
loam to the peat, which we also prefer of a more open 
texture. The growth, or culture, of orchids is much 
better understood now than it was when Mr. Butcher 
wrote the above, nearly nine years ago; yet his directions, 
as to a season of growth and a season of rest, are in 
accordance with the practice of the best cultivators at 
this day. T. Appleby. 
VERBENA CULTURE FOR EXHIBITING. 
(Continued from page 229.) 
Planting and Potting. —These two important opera¬ 
tions have been already partly touched upon, but not so 
fully as we think necessary, that our readers may fully 
know how to perform them. The distance the plants 
should be from each other has been mentioned—on that 
head we have nothing more to say. The best tool to use 
in planting is a garden trowel. Set the plants in their 
places, turn the first plant out of the pot, pick out the 
crocks from the bottom of the ball, loosen the roots a little 
from amongst the soil, make the hole with the trowel just 
so deep as to allow the ball to be a quarter-of-an-inch 
below the level of the bed, but no more, for if planted 
deeper, and wet weather should ensue, several of the 
plants would be infected with the damp disease and go 
off at once ; level the earth about the plants, pressing it 
firmly close to them. Proceed thus till all are finished, 
then rake the bed smooth; give each plant a good 
watering, and cover them with pots every night, till all 
danger of late frosts are over ; then remove the pots 
away to some snug corner; stir up the surface of the 
bed with a short three-pronged fork, leaving the soil 
rather rough; it will then retain the spring and sum¬ 
mer rains more effectually, and be less liable to bake 
and crack with the sun. As the plants advance in 
growth, have some hooked pegs handy, and peg the 
shoots down to the earth, they will soon root into it and 
obtain fresh support, and, consequently, strength to bring 
to perfection large trusses of bright-coloured blooms. 
Let the shoots be equally spread all over the bed, but 
should the centre of each plant become naked, it may be 
filled up with shoots brought back again from the ex¬ 
tremities. Blooming shoots must be allowed to rise up 
pretty equally distanced from each other, and will soon 
require a stick to each to support them and keep them 
in proper order. If they are allowed to grow at random, 
it is very likely some of the best blooms will be near 
the earth, and by heavy showers be dashed with dirt 
and spoiled. 
Care must be taken that the plants do not exhaust 
themselves with flowering before exhibition days. To 
prevent this, nip off the greater part, if not the whole of 
the buds, till within six or seven weeks of the day when 
they are wanted for the show. Should the weather in 
the meantime prove dry, it will be of immense advan¬ 
tage to give them occasionally a regular good steeping 
of soft water—not a mere dribble, but such a watering 
as will descend to the lowest roots. A mulching of moss, 
or short litter, would prevent a too great evaporation, 
especially if laid on immediately after this liberal 
watering. 
We must now leave this part of our subject for a 
time, and direct our attention to the second part of this 
section —the potting. It was stated that the first potting 
should be performed early in March. The newly-potted 
plants must be placed upon the pots in the frame or 
pit, and be carefully attended to, with due supplies of 
soft water, but in this early stage the watering must not 
be excessive. The time of giving water is of some con¬ 
sequence, for if given in the evening, when the powers 
of appropriation are small, the nights long, and perhaps 
frosty or damp, the cold moisture arising from the 
watered soil will be greatly injurious. Water, then, 
early in the day, and give plenty of air to dry up the 
damp. This will preserve the foliage, and keep the 
plauts growing until the warmer weather and greater 
wants of the plants warrant the afternoon’s application 
of water. 
With this regular and judicious care the plants will 
grow rapidly, and will soon require a second shift. Let 
the compost be placed under cover for a few days pre¬ 
viously, to become moderately dry and aired. Much 
