January 22 . 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
201 
TO CORRESPONDENTS. 
Erratum.— Page 226, 2 col. 3 line, change “ highly," into “slightly.” 
Planting Vinery {Grateful ).—You may grow vines on the back 
wall to a single stem, but we are not assured that close spur-pruning will 
succeed in that situation, if you have them on single stems. They are 
never quite so fine as on the rafters, but sometimes very good. Your 
rafter vines must be close spurred, and close stopping practised, as a 
line of solar light must reach them between each two rafters. Hamhros, 
by all means, for back wall. We have no personal knowledge of Dutch 
Hambro’. Tokays are of similar habit to Muscats, some shyer still, 
all difficult grapes, all shy setters. If you plant any, put them where 
the heat enters the house. Your rafters may be expected to produce 
: about fifteen pounds each, annually. Your back wall stems about eight. 
! Plant clean canes from eyes of the preceding year, in the first week of 
March. Border material, one-half turfy and rather sandy loam, the other 
! half lime and brick rubbish, charred sticks, and rubbish, coarse and rather 
j fresh manure, and half-rotten leaf soil, in equal parts ; the whole well 
blended in a coarse state, and placed on a subsoil where water can never 
accumulate. 
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Size of Beehives (J. Clark). — “ A Country Curate ” writes as 
follows :—“ In reply to your correspondent I would observe, that his 
very sweeping condemnation of me and my book is founded, first of all, in 
a miscalculation of figures, based on his own ‘ loose and off-hand ’ perusal 
of Mr. Taylor’s remarks on the subject of bee-boxes ; and, secondly, on 
his want of acquaintance with the now generally well-known internal 
economy of a hive of bees. Mr. Taylor I find (at page 41 of his Bee¬ 
keeper’s Manual, fourth edition) recommends a size of box ‘ 11 inches 
square by S to 9 inches deep withinside,’ which gives (not 1331 cubic 
inches, as Mr. Clark says, but) 1089 cubic inches for the larger, and for 
the smaller size (11 by 8 ) 968 cubic inches, which is less than the average 
of my four sizes by severally 242 and 363 cubic inches, instead of ‘ a 5 of 
an inch less ’ only, as Mr. Clark states ; and less even than the smallest 
of my hives (which contains 1152 cubic inches) by severally 63 and 184 
cubic inches ! So much for the difference in actual capacity between my 
hives and those of Mr. Taylor. But, in fact, there is (or rather was) a 
still greater difference between them than would at first be apparent to a 
cursory reader of my book. Every intelligent bee-keeper is well aware 
that broad and shallow boxes, or hives, are more suitable (other things 
being alike) for breeding purposes than narrow and lofty hives. For in¬ 
stance : a box 13 inches square, by 8 or even 7 inches high, is capable, in 
general, of rearing a much larger brood of bees than one of 10 inches square 
by 13 or even 14 inches high, although the latter box (10 by 14) would con¬ 
tain 21 / cubic inches more than the former. For it is pretty well ascertained 
that the queen bee prefers to breed low down, and far and wide, rather 
than high up in the hive ; or more correctly speaking, that the workers 
always prefer to store honey in the upper parts of the hive. Mr. Taylor 
has of late acceded more fully than ever to the truth of this principle, 
and wisely altered the dimensions of his hives accordingly, viz., by increas¬ 
ing their breadth and diminishing their depth. His hives, as exhibited in 
the Crystal Palace, are actually a quarter-of-an-inch broader than the 
very broadest of my hives, as given in Mr. Clark’s schedule !—being, in 
fact, of 40 cubic inches more capacity (instead of ‘full 120 cubic inches 
less’) than his former hive, thought by me to be too small! and, in fact, 
much more than ‘ 40 cubic inches greater,’ because it is so much (2£ 
inches every way) broader than his former hive ; and I repeat—it is 
breadth, and not height, which should be aimed at in breeding-hives. I 
confess that (if I may venture to have an opinion of my own) I should 
like Mr. Taylor’s new hive better if it were an inch deeper than it is ; but 
every man to his own taste. As Mr. Taylor’s improvements in the 
dimensions of his boxes (which Mr. Payne also approves and follows) 
have been given to the public (so far as I know) since the ‘ English Bee¬ 
keeper ’ issued from the press, I may at least congratulate myself that the 
principle upon which I have based my observations on the size of boxes 
in that boolt—a principle, be it observed, laid down by no less an authority 
than He Gelieu, the celebrated Swiss apiarian—so far from being con¬ 
demned by our living standard apiarian authorities, has been of late 
admitted to be true by them more fully than ever, as is evidenced by 
their having so lately modified their hives in stricter accordance with 
that principle. In conclusion I would add, that your correspondent must 
choose for himself in respect to the size of his boxes; for there is not, I 
am persuaded, a single apiarian of note who would presume, in a matter 
so confessedly uncertain, to lay down the law positively as to any par¬ 
ticular size being the proper size, from which there should be no devi¬ 
ation. And I am sure that both Mr. Taylor and Mr. Payne would do me 
the justice to say that my opinion upon the subject, as given in my book 
(whether they agree with me or not), is at least as reasonable and as likely 
to be as good an opinion as their own, in spite of the latitude which I 
have allowed to every bee-keeper in the choice of a certain size for his 
bee-boxes. As some who will read these remarks may still be puzzled 
to understand the superiority of broad and shallow over deep and narrow 
hives, they being of the same, or of nearly the same, capacity—seeing 
that if bees have a given quantity of honey to store away, they will 
deposit it just as readily in broad as in deep hives, and, therefore, there 
would be just as much space for breeding (and no more) left in the one 
hive as in the other—I would explain that I am supposing supers, or 
glasses, to be used, with several, and rather large, holes in the top of the 
breeding-hive communicating with them. Now in this case, where the 
box is broad and shallow, it will be found, as a general rule, that the 
bees will commence storing honey in the super with far greater readiness 
than where the stock-hive is deep and narrow—in other words, the. shal¬ 
lower the breeding-hive is, the sooner will the bees be tempted to carry 
up and deposit honey in an upper story, if care be taken to supply them 
with it at the proper season ; whence not only will the bee-master derive 
greater immediate profit, but also the queen will have a much freer 
scope, and a more abundant space for laying eggs in that part of the hive 
most suitable for the purpose. This is an axiom in bee-lore which I 
imagine no one will pretend to deny, and if it be correct, it stands to 
reason that my hive of 13 inches square by 8 deep, or Mr. Taylor’s of 
13$ by 7 (the difference is not so very great) are the best breeding bee- 
boxes yet recommended to the public. I should prefer my own, from a 
fear lest the bees should store too much in the super, and not enough in 
the breeding box for their winter consumption.” We will only add, that 
Mr. Clark, however unintentionally, did not write in that, courteous style 
usual when information is sought for. 
Malay and Cociiin-Ciuna Fowls. — Philunthe asks, “Are Cochin- 
China fowls as large as the real Malays, and equally good as sitters and 
nurses, and are they more peaceable and better layers?” and An.ster 
Bonn replies, “ I must, in the first place, repeat what I have often said 
before, that my opinion is the experience of one person only, and that I 
scrupulously avoid writing from hearsay. My present experience lies 
among my favourite Cochin-Chinas; but in spite of my acknowledged 
preference for them, I notice with regret how very much the splendid 
Malay breed of poultry seems to be going out of fashion, so much so, 
indeed, that at the recent show at Birmingham, there were no grou'n 
fowls of this variety considered worthy of a first prize. I believe, in 
weight, the true Malay would bear the palm from the true Cochin-China-, 
and I think it would be a question worth the attention of those persons 
who have had many years’ experience with both, whether many of the 
heaviest Cochin-China fowls,—the imported, as well as some which have 
been bred here,—do not, on this account, owe some gratitude to the 
Malay. Respecting the weight of Cochin-China fowls, I perfectly coin¬ 
cide with the Rev. E. S. Dixon, when he says “it is a mistake to suppose, 
in forming a judgment on the merits of this breed, that mere weight is, 
or ought to be, the main qualification; ” for, although great weight is a 
characteristic and a great merit in these capital creatures, it certainly 
should not be considered alone, or at the expense of beauty in shape and 
colour, softness and abundance of the fluff, and other distinguishing 
marks of the breed; at least, this is my opinion. As sitter and nurse, 
the Cochin-China hen is decidedly superior to the Malay, whose length 
of limb makes her an awkward sitter, at the same time that it renders 
the task irksome to herself. I dare not affirm that I have had perfectly 
true bred Malay fowls, for I am told that these are confined to a very 
few owners in the country, but I have known what I thought a good hen 
lay two days out of three. I find my Cochin-China hens lay every day, or 
nearly so. The Cochin-China hens are pretty, mild, peaceable creatures. 
A good Cochin-China cock, like any other good cock, will have his own 
way among his subjects, and there is not much peace in the hen-yard 
until he gets it; but, so far as my own experience goes, when he has 
once gained the mastery, he is satisfied, and allows things to go on 
quietly. One time this year, I had eighteen Cochin-China cocks put up 
in a yard ; I do not think this arrangement would have answered if they 
had been eighteen Malays, particularly as there were a few pullets and 
common hens confined with them. I noticed that one of the elder ones 
soon made himself chief among them, and retained his position. Many 
authors consider the Malay fowl to be of inferior quality for the use of 
the table, both in flavour and appearance. They are certainly not so 
good as the Cochin-China either in these particulars or in plumpness of 
form, the length of their legs giving them rather an awkward appearance 
when trussed and cooking. The Cochin-China fowls’ eggs have a very 
delicate flavour, but I think they are hardly so large as those of the 
Malay.” 
Bedding Roses {Queen Mab ).—To have roses grafted or not grafted 
for a bed, is entirely a matter of taste, either way will do. There is not 
a yellow bedding rose at all. Those Tea ones we named the other day 
require such protection, that not one place out of a hundred suits them. 
Hurrisonii makes a good bed for a month, and so does the Persian yellow, 
and the old Austrian, but what can be done with them for the rest of the 
season ? Any time after the middle of February will do to renew your 
American bed. 
Fruit-trees for New Zealand {Rosea).—“ The best method ” 
of sending Apple, Pear, Peach, Nectarine, Apricot, Gooseberry, Currant, 
and Raspberry, and all other fruits, to New Zealand, is, unquestionably, 
to send a good packet of seeds of as many kinds as you can procure, and 
run the chance of the seedlings proving good. The next best method, if 
not the best, is to plant very small plants in strong cases, to be covered 
as Wardian cases; these should be planted in the spring, and sent off next 
October. Parties going out now, or soon, might try a case or two of trees 
packed close in dry moss or sawdust. 
Roses for Wall {E. S. R.). —To cover a brick wall a yard high, and 
a wooden trellis over it two feet high, climbing roses are too strong, unless 
you were to plant them twenty feet or more apart; if the situation is good, 
the finer pillar roses we named the other day are the very sorts for you. 
Put them in four feet apart, water them abundantly next summer, and 
you will soon be delighted with them. The Banksians will never do much 
good there, but leave them for a couple of years till the others come up, 
and as the Felicite Perpetuelle is there, leave it also for a while, and carry 
it right and left along the top of the rails—at any rate do not attempt to 
confine it to seven feet high, or if you do, you shall see but very few 
flowers on it. If the situation is exposed, or too much confined by trees 
or buildings, why then you must be content with our list of hybrid Chinas 
and Bourbons, beginning with Chenedolle, &c. &c. 
Cape Jasmine Cuttings {M. D. S.).—‘ To grow this from cuttings, a 
cucumber-bed, or some hotbed is necessary ; then about the end of March 
make cuttings of the young top shoots, about four inches long, and 
cutting close under the bottom joint. Plant them very firm in a small 
pot, well drained, and filled with one-half sand, and the rest peat, with a 
layer of clean sand on the top. Water them well after planting. A bell- 
glass or a little hand-glass put over them will hasten the roots. 
Bulbs {H. W.). —The Oxalis speciosa and Ixias are frame or green¬ 
house plants. The Gesnera zebrina a real stove plant. Without “ a 
house or pit” such things are of no use to you. The Chilian Alstromerias 
may be planted like so many Crocuses. If you want a few large patches 
at once, plant so many roots together ; any number, from two to twenty, 
will do ; or if you prefer more plants to size of patches, plant single roots 
only ; for an ordinary patch, five roots planted in a circle, with the odd 
one in the centre, is a fair method; but all such arrangements depend on 
individual taste. 
Flower-seeds for the North of India (M. M. G—).— Verbenas, 
Calceolarias, Petunias, Penstemons, Tigridias, Lobelias, the whole race 
of Geraniums, Maurandias, Eccremocarpus, Lophospeimums, Mesem- 
bryanthemums, Marigolds, Alstromerias, Lupines, Delphiniums, and, 
indeed, any other kind we grow here may be tried. Also all the green¬ 
house Acacias and other things from the Cape, Australia, Mexico, &c., 
which we grow or winter in the greenhouse. For, to tell the truth, we 
are all in the dark as to what is best for the North of India, either as 
