THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
February 19. 
820 
without touching the sides, though this may he managed 
better by propping the leaves back from the glass with 
short sticks of clean white deal. The pot for the cut¬ 
tings should bo prepared in the usual way, by good 
drainage; then filled with light loam and sandy peat to 
I within an inch of the top, the remaining inch to be filled 
I up with pure silver sand. When the cuttings are 
j planted, and duly prepared to receive the bell-glass, 
give a gentle watering, and let the pot stand a space of 
time to allow the leaves to become dry; then fix the 
bell-glass on, and plunge the pot in a bed of tanner’s 
bark, or, if that is not at hand, place it under a hand¬ 
glass upon a heated surface of coal-ashes or sand. We 
have known them struck successfully by being plunged 
in the earth of a cucumber-bed, before the cucumber 
plants had engrossed the whole surface of the bed. 
Wherever they are placed, they will require shading 
from the rays of the sun till roots begin to push forth; 
tliis may be known by the shoots growing also; the 
bell-glass may then be lifted off for an h our every morn¬ 
ing and evening, closing it down during the middle of 
the day. We would, however, warn the new beginner 
that this ripened wood takes longer time to produce roots 
than young growths of other kinds of plants. As soon 
as a sufficient quantity of roots are formed, pot them 
off without delay; it is always dangerous to allow any 
kind of cuttings to remain long in the cutting-pot after 
roots are formed. After they are potted they will require 
to be protected rather longer from the full sun and air, 
but as soon as they can be inured gradually to bear it, 
let them immediately have the benefit of it. 
Soil. —These plants being of a woody texture, require 
; a strong, rich soil: good yellow loam, one-half; sandy 
peat, one-fourth; and one-fourth vegetable mould, will 
suit them well. Drain the pots well, and use the com¬ 
post without sifting. 
Potting. —Whilst the plants are small and young, they 
may be potted twice during the year, first in February 
and secondly in July; by this means two growths will 
be obtained the same season. But when the plants 
have attained a considerable size, once a year will be 
sufficient, because the object will be then, not so much 
to increase the size of the plant, as to induce it to 
flower, a circumstance not so likely to happen if they 
are forced into growth by frequent pottings. 
General Management. —Rest is also as needful to these 
plants as it is to any others, to cause them to produce 
flowers, the grand object for which we cultivate orna¬ 
mental plants. This may be attained in the usual 
w r a.y, by reducing the temperature and giving less water 
at the same time. The best period for this, in our 
stoves, is the short, dark days of winter; the heat then 
should not exceed 55° by day, and 50° by night, and 
no more water should be given than is absolutely neces¬ 
sary to keep the plants from drooping and shedding 
their leaves. As soon as the warm days of spring ap¬ 
proach, let the stimulating influences of fresh earth and 
increased heat and moisture be applied. With regard 
to repotting, the state of the plants must be considered. 
As the plants are free growers, it is desirable, on account 
of their size, to dwarf their growth; this may be done 
in the way the Chinese do, by keeping them in, com¬ 
paratively speaking, small pots. If, then, they are 
tolerably healthy, and have attained a fair size, do not 
repot them, but only top-dress with fresh earth. 
The first time we saw B. grandiceps flower was in the 
stoves of R. Harrison, Esq., near Liverpool. It was a 
plant about four feet high and three feet through, was 
perfectly healthy, and, if we recollect right, had not been 
potted for two or three years, the check, no doubt, 
operating to induce it to flower. During the growing 
season it was occasionally watered with liquid manure, 
and received in the spring a top-dressing of rich earth. 
The heat when growing should be increased to 76° by 
day and 05° by night. The tan-bed, if one is used, 
should then be renewed, and the plants frequently 
syringed; in short, a liberal treatment adopted, which 
will most likely enable the plants, if of moderate size 
and well rested, to flower. T. Appleby. 
MR. GLENNY ON FLORISTS’ FLOWERS. 
Twenty-two Blooms of Cinerarias ( M . 11 .).— 
Splendid colours, but good for nothing in the present 
day ; we are frequently obliged to reject everything from 
purchased seed. It is scarcely possible to obtain any¬ 
thing in advance, without saving the seed ourselves. As 
we have asked several times “ How can we expect a 
man to sell seeds which are likely to produce valuable 
novelties ? ” It is said that a man may have more than 
he wants, and, therefore, cannot grow it himself. But 
he would rather throw it away than sell it, if saved as it 
ought to be, because he does not want anybody to stand 
the same chance as himself. When any man, famous 
for his growth of a particular subject, sells seed, do we 
imagine it is the same kind as be sows for himself? 
No! The few he saves seed from, for his own use, are 
far enough away from all others. He gathers from his 
general collection, and from his rejected seedlings, to 
serve the public with, and we may fill a house, or grow 
an acre, without obtaining one that is better than we 
possess already. «We have three more lots of Cinerarias 
(M. D., W. R., and H. J.)., less in number, but of no 
use as show flowers. 
Camellias (C.). — Colour not new and only semi¬ 
double. Myrtifolia is far better. (II. P.). —Very pretty, 
but no advance in anything. Bealii’s fault is sinking 
in the centre, small, indifferently shaped petals, and 
paler than the outside ones. H. P.’s seedling has the 
same fault in a worse degree. (A.). —Pale rose, the 
form of Donldearii, which would not be tolerated, but 
for its distinct red and white. The form is very bad. 
There is hardly a worse. (Jane S.). —Too ragged on 
the edge, and only semi-double, of no use whatever. 
Use worthless seedlings as stocks for better. 
VERBENA CULTURE. 
(Continued from page 308.) 
Before proceeding to describe our method of raising 
new varieties from seed, we will redeem a promise we 
gave a few weeks back, that a list of the best existing 
varieties for exhibition should be given during the issue 
of these papers on Verbena culture, and the time for 
purchasing being now fast approaching, we think this 
a fitting opportunity to give such a list. 
No propagation can take place till plants are procured, 
and without some guide, how can the amateur know the 
kinds that will answer his purpose. We confess that we 
approach this part of our task with some diffidence, for 
amongst so many various kinds, shapes, and colours 
(and what is more formidable, perhaps, the criticism of 
the would-be-knowing ones), it is no easy matter, not 
only to please others, but even to satisfy ourselves, that 
our recommendation will be right. We trust, however, 
that the list will be useful. Every possible care has 
been taken to render it so, and they are, at all events, 
selected to the best of our judgment, without favour to 
any party or clique, a word which some writers are too 
fond of applying, even to respectable, honest dealers. 
We will first give the names of good old varieties, ar¬ 
ranging them in colours, commencing with white, and 
ending with the darkest shades. Afterwards, a very few 
selected new kinds, such as have obtained the approba¬ 
tion of the judges at the different Floral Societies in and 
around London, during the last year. 
