March 11. 
tHE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
36ft 
cially for the window, as great masses of bloom, under 
this treatment, can be obtained in little space. Small 
foliage, combined with plenty of fine flowers, is thus 
always a recommendation. The qualities of a good 
llower have already been described by the best authority. 
By such a mode of treatment, a great quantity of young 
shoots having started before the plants are either shifted 
or top-dressed, the strength of the fresh compost and 
manure waterings is thrown into the producing of con¬ 
tinuous bloom rather than abundance of large foliage. 
This mode will not answer so well with the stronger¬ 
growing, larger-leaved varieties, which produce their 
bloom chietiy at the points of strong shoots. It seldom 
happens that the wood is ripened the previous season to 
the very points, and even if tolerably hard the buds for 
a space back from the point are imperfect. Besides, 
where the wood is fully ripened, the buds have not a 
tendency to break so regularly as in the small-leaved 
sorts, but the extreme part of the ripened shoots sets 
out a strong young one or two, leaving a space towards 
the main stem bare. On these various accounts, there 
fore, it is advisable to prune back all the shoots of last 
season to a bud or two, as soon as fresh vegetation com¬ 
mences. The energies of the plant are thus directed into 
fewer channels, and more vigorous growth is the conse¬ 
quence. Stunted growth in this division will yield you 
few and stunted blooms. 
Training Fuchsias .—For the above mode of manage¬ 
ment, and, indeed, for every other, we prefer the training 
the plants to a single main stem. There is no other 
mode so suitable for a young plant. As the plant 
gains in height, lateral shoots will continue to be pro¬ 
duced, those nearest the pot being the largest, giving 
the plant a pyramidal appearance. To maintain the 
same character in the second season, and onwards, these 
shoots next the pot must be left longest at future prim¬ 
ings. Without considerable trouble perfect symmetry 
is seldom maintained after three or four years, but this 
is a matter of no moment, as young plants are so easily 
raised. Any young shoots taken off, for a month to 
come, close to the stem, and from two to four inches in 
length, and placed in a gentle hotbed, will make nice 
autumn-flowering plants. If they do not show a dis¬ 
position to branch out early, stopping the main shoot 
will cause them to do so. By this single-stem system 
not more than a single supporting stick is necessary. 
The lower branches may require tying down to the rim 
of the pot, having previously put a cord or wire round 
for the purpose ; and other shoots may generally be kept 
in their desired position by suspending them with thread 
between other branches and the main stem—thus a 
faggot of sticks is got rid of. When kept for several 
years, the stem will be strong enough of itself, if not too 
lofty. I have tried some, grown like standard roses, 
training the plants to one stem, first nipping in, and 
then altogether removing, the laterals, and also all the 
buds, except a few near the summit, unless the plants 
have a pendulous habit. I cannot say that there 
is much to boast about in this mode of treatment, 
any more than there is in standard roses in general; 
but the novelty of the thing would please some, and 
variety is always pleasing, if not in very bad taste. 
I mentioned the other week how, when old plants 
become ragged in their outline, they should be cut 
down, and treated much in the same way as those 
grown out-of-doors. These may be trained to one stem, 
or half-a-dozen, or more, according as they break, and 
the wish and taste of the owner. By the latter mode, 
by placing the strongest stem'in the centre, and the 
others outside of the pot, fine bushes may be formed. 
Each stem should have a supporting stick, and no more 
should be used. Bloom must not be expected from 
these plants so early as from old plants not cut down. 
Circumstances best fitted for the growth of Fuchsias .— 
Rapid growth may be effected after this period, by 
plunging the pots in a hotbed, of a medium tempera¬ 
ture of 75° to 80°; root-action is thus made active. 
Some of the best plants I have seen were thus plunged 
for several months in a bed, in a span-roofed house,— 
medium top temperature 50° to 55 u , and from 10° to 
15° rise for sunshine, with air on night and day, and 
no shading during the latter. The stimulus given to 
extension by heat, was counteracted by light and air. 
Strong vigorous growth was thus associated with short- 
jointed, highly-elaborated wood. Attempt such a mode 
of growth under the shade of something else, and in a 
close, moist atmosphere, and you will be rewarded with 
long jointed, flexi ble shoots, the blooming of which will 
be sure to disappoint you. Unless in such favourable 
circumstances as those indicated, it will be best to dis¬ 
pense altogether with an exciting high temperature. 
That which will suit the generality of plants in the 
greenhouse, will also suit them ; only, after breaking 
and potting, they may be placed closely together, and 
kept warmer and moister than the generality of the 
plants, and also more shaded, placing them more apart, 
and in more and more direct sunlight as growth pro¬ 
gresses. Everything about potting these beauties has 
been already referred to. In addition to manure water¬ 
ings, they will stand several top-dressings during the 
season. The best I have found for them, was a sprinkling 
of super-phosphate of lime—the next best, a mixture 
of dried cow and sheep-dung. We fear that at this time 
of The Cottage Gardener, some early subscribers will 
judge these remarks uncalled-for; but I would urge, as 
an apology, the wish that every little thing should be 
understood about these lovely plants, so fitted to give 
a charm to the peasant’s cottage, as well as the lady’s 
boudoir. R. Fish. 
PROPAGATION OF EXOTIC ORCHIDS. 
(Continued from page 335.) 
Cirrhea. —This genus grows so freely, that to in- 
. crease the plants nothing more is needed than to divide 
them into two or more divisions; pot them, and sub¬ 
ject them to the same routine of treatment as if they 
had not been divided at all. 
Cirrhopetalum. —Increased in the same manner as 
BarJceria ; which see. 
Ccelogyne. —Cut off two or three back bulbs, fix 
them on a block with moss attached; syringe gently, 
and pot them the second year. 
Comparettia. —The plants of this genus are very 
scarce, being difficult to propagate. The rhizoma is so 
small, that if it is divided, the back bulbs are almost 
sure to perish. The only way to succeed is to treat 
them as directed for the small Cattleyas. 
Coryanthes. — The incipient buds of this genus arc [ 
very apt to perish if more than a year old, therefore, to 
increase the plants, it is necessary to take oft’ a pseudo¬ 
bulb next to the one pushing forth a shoot. Divide the 
rhizoma exactly between the bulbs, and pot them in the ; 
same compost as the established plants. Give no water : 
till the buds break, and then only round the edges of 
the pot, till fresh roots appear, then water more freely, 
and afterwards treat them like the established plants. 
Cycnoches being similar in habit to the Catasetums, 
they may be increased by the same method. (See , 
Catasetum.) 
Cymbidium. —This genus generally grows strongly, 
and produces vigorous side-shoots. To increase them, 
take off a shoot with living roots attached to it, pot, and 
treat these divisions the same as the old plants. They 
are not difficult to manage. 
Cypripedium. —This genus consists of plants of an 
herbaceous evergreen character. They send forth side- 
shoots pretty freely, and as soon as these show roots^ 
