8 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
April 1. 
to dust the pollen of the male plant upon the stigma 
of the female. Now whenever this can be accomplished 
I they produce a large quantity of seed, and when that 
is the case, save it and sow it in shallow pans, in a 
high temperature ; transplant the seedlings, as soon as 
they can be handled, into nursery rows in a shallow pot, 
i and when they are large enough into small pots singly, 
in the same compost as that recommended for cuttings. 
These quickly make good plants, and produce pitchers 
sooner even than cuttings. T. Appleby. 
_ 
| CULTURE OF THE ROSE FOR EXHIBITION. 
{Continuedfrom page 400, Vol. vii.) 
Buddtng and Pruning. —In our last number the 
mode of budding upon the wild briar was described. 
The roses so increased are for growing in the open 
border, to produce cut flowers for the exhibition table. 
That kind of stock will answer tolerably also for pot 
culture, if worked low, that is, budded about nine inches 
or a foot high on the stock. There is, however, a stock 
which we think much better adapted for that purpose— 
it is called the Manetti stock, and is itself a kind of 
cultivated rose. The advantages of using this as a 
stock are—it is as easily struck from cuttings as a 
willow; it roots more freely than the dog-rose; it scarcely 
ever sends up suckers; and experience has proved that 
the more delicate Bourbon, China, and Tea-scented 
roses grow much more freely on it than any other, or 
even than on their own roots. About three weeks ago we 
visited the rose-garden of Mr. T. Appleby, at the Rose- 
mount Nursery, York, and saw hundreds of the newest 
and more tender roses cultivated in pots and budded 
upon this stock. Their growth was really surprising. 
In a house very gently heated, many that had been 
budded only last August had made healthy shoots more 
that a foot long; scarcely any had failed, and all were 
progressing wonderfully. The good qualities of this 
stock are justly and highly appreciated by Mr. Appleby, 
who cultivates it by thousands, both for the purpose of 
working or budding, and also for sale. He puts in the 
cuttings in nursery-rows early in spring, and they grow 
so quickly that they are fit to bud the same summer, 
will grow the succeeding spring, and be fit to remove 
in the autumn. This applies to the stocks in the open 
ground. In pots the operation is still quicker; they 
may he grafted in spring, and he fit to be disposed of. 
or repotted for blooming, in autumn. The Manetti 
stocks should be struck in the open ground, or in pots, 
and he potted singly into 4^-inch pots. If strong enough, 
they may be budded or whip-grafted as soon as fresh 
roots are formed. We strongly recommend this stock 
to our readers, whether they are growers for sale, gar¬ 
deners, amateurs, or cottagers. 
Pruning. —This is a most important operation in 
the culture of the rose, and requires considerable fore¬ 
thought and experience. The pruning must not be 
uniform, for some varieties are strong growers, others 
are weak growers; some bear their flowers on short 
I spurs, whilst the greater number bear them on terminal 
shoots; hence it is necessary to know all these pecu¬ 
liarities before the knife is applied at all. Fortunately, 
the varieties requiring such distinction in pruning are 
easily known, and many of them are very numerous. 
To understand this perfectly, or, at least, to a degree 
sufficiently perfect, we shall divide them into such 
as require close pruning, such as only require mo¬ 
derately shortening, and, lastly, such as require only 
to he thinned-out, without shortening or cutting-in the 
leading branches. 
1. Roses requiring 'close pruning. —By this term is 
j meant to cut in the wood made the previous year to 
within three or four buds of the base of each shoot. 
Under this head we class Provence and Moss roses, 
excepting two or three very strong growers, which will ( 
be noticed presently; also the Damask, Alba, Gallica, \ 
Hybrid Provence, Damask Perpetual , the weak-growing 
Hybrid Perpetuals, the u-eak-growing Bourbons , the 
weak-growing Noisettes , the China , and the Tea-scented. 
All the roses that are classed under these heads, with 
the exception of strong-growers, require to be closely 
pruned. The best season for this operation is about 
the end of February or beginning of March. If pruned 
much earlier, the buds will break, and probably be 
caught and injured by late spring frosts. If the heads 
are crowded too much, thin out some of the weaker old 
branches, leaving the rest so as to form an open, 
compact bush. 
2. Such as only require moderately shortening. —These 
are strong, robust growers, and if cut in close, would 
generally produce few flowers, and abundance of coarse 
strong shoots. They may be arranged under the following 
varieties :—All the strong-growing Moss roses, especially 
such as Moss Catherine An Luxembourg, Countess de Noe, 
Du Luxembourg, Lanei, Princess Adelaide, and De Vi el- 
lard; also hybrids of Chinese, Bourbon, and Noisettes ; 
all climbing roses, except the Banksian varieties; also 
the strong growing Hybrid Perpetuals, such, for instance, 
as Comte Bobrinsky, Comtesse de Rambuteau, Gloire de 
Rosamene, and such like; the strong-growing Bourbon, 
and the strong-growing Noisettes. These require the 
shoots to be thinned-out, and very little shortened; the 
season for the operation in early spring. 
3. Such as require only to have their shoots thinned-out, 
leaving the moderately strong shoots without pruning 
in scarcely any. Under this head we include* the 
Scotch dwarf roses, the Austrian Briar, Harrisohii and 
Persian Yellow, the Sweet Briars, the Banksian, the 
Rosa multiflora, the Macartney, and the Perpetual 
Scotch. These require only their strong, over-robust 
shoots pruning clean away, and the best time for the 
operation is about Midsummer. The moderately-grow¬ 
ing shoots should be kept growing until they reach the 
height of the wall or paling, excepting the Scotch va¬ 
rieties {Rosa spinosissima) , which are dwarfs, and should 
be grown on their own roots as compact bushes. When 
the shoots of these become long, weak, and straggling, 
cut them in pretty severely, sacrificing one year’s bloom 
for the sake of throwing fresh vigour into the plants. 
This may require to be done once in five or six 
years. If the others become naked towards the bottom, 
train in a fresh strong shoot or two from the bottom 
of the trees, thinning-out some of the weakest branches 
to make room for the young strong shoots; and 
as these advance from year to year, clear away the 
exhausted old shoots to make room for them. Do this 
gradually, or there will be few flowers, till they become 
furnished with weak flower-bearing branches. 
T. Appleby. 
{To be continued.) 
EARLY TURNIPS. 
Notwithstanding the general hardihood of this plant, 
there are few things more difficult to procure at an early 
period than good sweet turnips; and the many mishaps 
the first sowing is subject to renders this crop more pre¬ 
carious than many others. True, the seed vegetates as 
quickly as any seed, but birds, slugs, &c., seem to regard 
these seedlings as their own, and very often the result, 
proves their claims to have been well founded. But 
another enemy too often assails them, and that is cold, 
uugenial weather, and we have so often witnessed its 
baneful effects, that we are converts to the popular belief 
that a very slight touch of frost, while the plant is in 
