October HO. 
COUNTRY GENTT.EMAN’S COMPANION. 
vigour. When water is given, tlie soil in the pot shouhl 
liave the appearance of dryness, hut not so much as to 
cause the plant to flag, and then a pretty good supply shouhl 
be given; the hlrainage water to he always emptied out of 
the feeder or pan in whicli tlie pot stands ; pump water to 
he avoided, unless exposed to the atmosphere for twenty- 
four hours, and whatever water is given, to he made about 
the same temperature as the room in wliich the plants grow. 
Any dust or other impurities that may collect on the leaves 
should he removed hy means of a syringe, the rose of a 
wateiing-pot, or with a sponge. 
If the mowing of Whvot, and the other operations recom¬ 
mended last month, have been delayed, they should he 
finished as soon as possible. The Swedish Turnip will now 
he mature, and should be taken up in dry weather, their 
tops and tap roots cut off, and the bulbs stored away in 
some dry shed, or piled in roof-shaped heaps, on the ground, 
about four feet broad, and the same height, and covered 
with straw, where they may remain until they begin to 
sprout in February or March, when they shonld have the 
sprouts rubbed off, and be reclamped, ’lly such treaturent. 
Swedes sown in the end of May will keep good until the 
same time the following year. Mangold. Wnrlzel, by the 
beginning of the month, will have nearly perfected 
their growth; then, but not before, the outer leaves may be 
stripped oft’ as food for milch cows and pigs. If taken off 
much earlier in the season, the growth of the bulb is 
cheeked, and an inferior crop is the consequence. Towai’ds 
the end of the month the crop will generally be mature, 
and should be taken up, cutting off the tops two or three 
inches from the bulb, and treated as advised for Swedes. 
The Carrot may be treated in the same manner i-ecom- 
mended for the Swedes and Mangold Wurtzel. The leaves 
are relished by cows, and should be cut up along with fresh 
oaten straw by the chaff-cutter. The whole should be taken 
up with the greatest care, as slight bruises vei'y frequently 
produce gangrene, that not only destroys the bulb, but also 
the others in its immediate neighbourhood in the heap. 
WiT,T.i.ur Keane, 
THE APIARIAN’S CALENDAR.— November. 
By J. II. Payne, Esq., Author of “ The Bee-Keeper's 
Guide," d'C. 
The requirements of the Apiary during the present and 
next month are but few—providing the directions given in 
our last calendar have been strictly attended to—beyond 
defending the stocks effectually against wet, and an oc¬ 
casional examination to see that they are so. 
Cottagers. —Onr cottagers have done 2 >i’etty w'ell with 
their bees this yeai’, considering the season has not been a 
good one; their stocks, although but few in number, com¬ 
pared with former years, are good, and the Imney obtained 
from them has been of fine qualify. The system of 
deprivation is now become almost general amongst tbem, I 
am happy to say, and its advantages moi’e fully appreciated, 
j Their honey exhibited for competition at our Horticultural 
Meetings is highly creditable to themselves, as well as most 
gratifying to those who take an interest in their welfare, 
and who have been the means of inducing them to adopt 
the depriving system. 
Stocks. —From the unusual dryness of the weather, and 
the almost total absence of was^is, I believe the bees have 
been able to gather a sufficient quantity of honey to support 
themselves without drawing upon their store, and the Ivy, 
and some few late-flowering plants, will, for some time to 
come, affoi'd them a little. 
r.‘i 
, np their stamina twhich alone seem to furnish colour to the 
I flower), in consequence of the lateness of the season. 
I These, and a number of much finer jflants which have not 
! flowered, were taken as oft'sets from a jdant which flowered 
fifteen years ago. The climate at Salcombe is so mild, that 
Lemons, Citrons, and Oranges ripen with vei’y little shelter 
in winter. 
Amongst tlie many flower beds described in The Cottage 
C iARnENER, I have not seen any spoken of with strong¬ 
growing, rather high plants of a distinct colour, with a floor 
of another colour; for instance, I have had beds of a Yellow 
Calceolaria, with a floor of Blue Lohelia, and they have 
been admired by all who have seen them. 
The Yelloir Calceolaria which I have used is different 
from all others which I have seen ; although not flowering 
so eai’ly, continuing in flower very late, sending up strong 
shoots well clothed with leaves, the flowers breaking out 
from tlie top and the sides. I do not know its name. All 
my neighbours’ Calceolaria-beds have looked seedy long 
ago. This flowers fresh and strong until frost. 
Again. Is this anything new ? A gardener in this neigh¬ 
bourhood, a kind old friend and instructor of mine, had a 
double Nasturtium, which turned single, seeded, and the 
seeds have produced dwarf plants this summer; compact little 
things, about ten inches in diameter, masses of flowers.— 
E. II. Cole, Slokenhani Yicarage. 
AMERICAN ALOES IN BLOOM. —BLUE AND 
YELLOW BED.— DOUBLE NASTURTIUMS 
BECOMING SINGLE. 
I DO not know whether you are aware that there are four 
American Aloes flowering at Salcombe this autumn. One 
is (he. most of the trusses), nearly in bloom, twenty-eight 
feet high; it is to be feared the other three will not throw 
VEGETABLE CULTURE AND COOKERY. 
THE BEAN. 
There are few of the common garden soils in which the 
Bean may not be cultivated successfully; but that in which 
it thrives best is a strong, rich loam. 
For an early crop. Beans must be sown in a ivarm situa¬ 
tion, on a border on the south side of a wall, or some such 
situation, in the latter end of October or beginning of 
November; and the best sort for this jiurpose is the Early 
Mazagan. They must be sown in drills which are two-feet- 
and-a-half apart from each other, two inches deep, and at 
three inches distance in the drills. When the jilants have 
grown two or three inches high, ridge the earth up to theju ; 
and if the winter prove severe, cover them with long litter. 
This crop will be ready for use early in June following. 
Another way to have an early cro^i, is to sow the Beans 
thickly in October or November, in a dry and warm situation, 
and protect them with a garden-frame, or mats, during the 
winter, and then transjilant them in rows during the end of 
February or tlie beginning of March. 
In the latter eml of January, or beginning of February, 
another sowing should be made, to consist of Longpod, or 
.Johnson’s Wonderful. For these, the drills must be two-feet- 
and-a-half or three feet apart; the Beans four inches dis¬ 
tant from each other, and three inches deep in the soil. 
AVhen they are three or four inches high, earth them up 
with the hoe on both sides of the drills; and when they are 
in full bloom, pinch oft’ the tops, to throw strength into the 
pods. This crop will be ready in June and July. 
For the princiqml Summer crops, the Windsor, or, what is 
better, the Taylor’s Windsor, svhen it can be obtained true, 
is the best. These should be sown in March and April, in 
rows fully three feet apart, and at a distance of four inches 
in the rows. Successive sowings, every fortnight or three 
weeks, will keep up a supyily during .Tune, July, and August. 
AVhen it is reipiired to have a late Summer and Autumn 
supply, recourse must again be had to the Mazagan and 
Longpod, which should be sown at the end of June, and in 
July . these will come into use during August, and continue 
till the end of September. For these late sowings, if the 
winter is hot and dry, it will forward their germination con¬ 
siderably if they are steeped some hours in rain-water 
before they are sown, and afterwards occasionally watered. 
All crops of Beans should be earthed-up when they are 
three or four inches high; and when they are in full bloom, 
three inches or more should be pinched off the tops, to 
throw the vigour of the iflant into the pods. The i^ods 
should be gathered when about half-grown, as the Beans 
become tough and strong-tasted if allow'ed to attain 
maturity. 
