178 
THE COTTAGE GARDENEE. 
Hecembkr 11. 
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do not show flower must be grown in surainer. Accord- | 
ing to the time that the bulb and foliage is ripened will j 
the plant be inclined to bloom. I'hose belonging t® the 
If. iiulicinn section should never be quite dried. | 
Gksnkr.v —The treatment of this has often ' 
been given. For winter blooming, the tubers should be I 
started in April and onwards, and grown slowlj". Plants ’ 
in bloom at this season do not do well lor blooming in ! 
summer and early autumn. They always do best alter ‘ 
being well ripened and well rested. i 
JusTTCiA GA^.\'nucHk, ov Jlaviconia, speciosa, cornea , &c. ; 
The first of these is the most compact, and a beautiful ' 
yellow-flowering thing it is. Cornea will bloom several 
times in the year. The general treatment is either to i 
strike cuttings early, and grow on, or to prune back two , 
or three year-old plants when done flowering, or rather | 
some time afterwards; to grow freely in summer, to 
harden off in autumn, and keep in irom 48° to 55‘^ in I 
winter. If the atmosphere is not rather dry at this 
season the large spikes of Cornea will damp ofl. 
Passtfolia. —A few of alata, quadrangnlaris, Kerme- 
sena, &c., may still be dangling from the rafters, but the 
best for this season is racemoso qjrinceps, because the 
bunches of bloom, hanging something like bunches of 
grapes, look very well, though there is not sun to open 
them. 
PoiNSETTiA pui.CHF.RiuMA and pulclierrinia olho. —The 
treatment of this magnificent thing has frequently been 
given. Cuttings in a hotbed, in spring, or two or three 
year-old plants. Set aside in an open pot, after blooming, 
and allowed to get dry, pruned in within a bud or two 
of the base of the shoots, about the end of March en¬ 
couraged to break and grow freely ; no stopping ol 
shoots after the 1st of June; exposed to sun and more 
air in September and part of August, and housed in the 
stove by October. The points of the shoots must not 
be hurt by any means, as there the large crimson floral 
leaves come. Loam and peat, and plenty of manure- 
water when growing and flowering. 
GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 
Andersosia sprexgeeoides. —A pretty thing, nearly 
always in flower, requiring sandy peat to grow in. 
Acacia arniata, juniperino and taxifolio, &c., will i 
bloom in warm greenhouses if the plants were started 
early. Loam and a little peat. _ | 
Bulbs, such as i^orcissus, Tulips, ICyaainths, &c., if 
potted by the end of October, or the beginning ol 
Nov^ember, and assisted with a hotbed after the pots are 
full of roots, will be coming in by the end of the month. 
Small pots should be used for the purpose. | 
Camellias —These started into growth as soon as i 
they finished flowering in a hot-house, or otherwise, and I 
hardened by exposure after the flower-buds were set, 
will now be coming in. 
Chrysantiie.mums. —These will be good for the first ^ 
part of the month ; treatment often given. 
Correa speciosa, C. pulchella, and many hybrids, are 
valuable for winter and spring blooming. The first is, | 
perhaps, the best, and does well grafted on Correa alia, i 
The others are easily propagated by cuttings. Three- - 
parts sandy-peat to one of fibry-loam. A close place in 
the greenhouse in the early months of summer, a cold 
pit with plenty of air July and August, and house ! 
before the end of September. An article was given on 
their culture. | 
CoRONiLLA r.LAucA, a fine old shrub, growing freely in 
fibry-loam, and producing myriads of yellow flowers all 
the winter, requiring nothing hut a slight pruning in 
spring, growing either in a greenhouse or cold pit for a 
month or two, and then rusticating out-of-doors in 
summer, and housing in October. 
Cytisus of various sorts, and Genistas, require similar 
treatment, only more visitings from the syringe in ' 
summer, to keep down Bed Spider. Unless the green¬ 
house is warm, many will not bloom much until next 
month. 
Epacris. —Almost every one of this family, especially 
all having a smack of the impresso, will be in bloom ail 
the winter. The treatment has been frequentlv given. 
Brune back freely when done flowering ; give a short 
rest afterwards; encourage growth with an average 
temperature of 00°. When good, long shoots are made, 
harden and consolidate them by exposure to sun and 
air, and house in good time in the beginning of October. 
Erica. —Winter-flowering ones, such as the various 
Vestitas, Patersonii, eoccinea, exsvrgens, qjinnea, with its 
varieties, hispida, riipestris, gracilis, Ac., require similar 
treatment, only demanding more air when making their 
growth than the Epacris. 
Diosma ericoibes. —Easily grown in peat and loam ; 
flowers small, but the foliage very aromatic. 
Eutaxia myrtifolia. —Frequently in bloom in De¬ 
cember, in a warm greenhouse. Grown in peat and 
loam; pruned back in spring; shoots encouraged to 
grow, then hardened by exposure, and housed in 
October. 
Fuchsia serratifolia. —Fine plants of this are ob¬ 
tained by planting out-of-doors, in a rich border, at the 
end of May; lifting and re-potting in September; keep¬ 
ing in a shady place for a few weeks, and housing in 
October. If kept in pots, plants should be pruned in 
late in spring, and grown in a sunny place in summer. 
Almost all Brugmaxsias will bloom in winter when so 
treated. 
Heliotkopium of different sorts will bloom freely all 
the winter, if treated to a temperature from 45® to 55®. 
Lesciienaultia FORMOSA.— Of this the treatment was 
given last week. No damped or decayed flowers should 
be allowed to remain, or the plant will be injured. Fine, 
large specimens I would not allow to bloom at all for 
several months at this period. 
Geraxiums of sorts. — Scarlets struck in May, or cut 
back in June and July, and kept growing, will now 
bloom well in an average temperature of 48®. Many of 
the older Fancies, such as Sidonia and Jenkinsonii, will 
also be in bloom; and the various kinds of pur^ile, 
lilac, and scarlet Uniques, wherever there is a tempera¬ 
ture sufficiently high to open the blossoms. The 
Uniques are constant flowerers. 
Lobelia f;rinus maxima, and all that tribe of small 
flowering plants, will now bloom freely in small ])ots. 
Young plants struck in May and June do best. They 
make fine edgings for vases in greenhouses at this 
season. 
Lixum monogyxuji. —Pruned back in spring, grown 
in peat and loam, and well exposed in autumn. The 
young shoots will now be covered with buds and yellow 
flowers. 
Mauraxdya Barclayaxa, and other varieties.—This, 
raised from cuttings in spring, and planted against a 
pillar in summer, or supplied with a trellis or branches 
of a tree, in a pot, I have had in fine condition during 
the winter months. 
Myoperum parvifolium, 21/. ellipticum, Ac.—Inte¬ 
resting, though not very showy; simple culture, in peat 
and loam. 
Migxoxette. —Sown at the end of July and the be¬ 
ginning of August. 
Prlmula sinensis. —Sown in spring in a little heat, 
potted off, kept in a shady place in summer, exposed 
more to sun in autumn, and housed by the 1st of Octo¬ 
ber. Double Chinese Primrose, white and red. Divide 
and strike the plants in heat, in spring; grow them on 
in a warm, shady place in summer; expose to more sun 
and air in autumn; and keep them in the warmest end 
of the greenhouse in winter. No flowers should be 
allowed in summer. I have never done much good with 
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