30 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
October 10. 
begin to ripen in the beginning of summer, when they must 
be rested, by dryness and full exposure to sunshine. In 
the following autumn the flower-spike will generally show, 
and then waterings must be given. The temperature of a 
common greenhouse will suit it in winter. It will stand a 
little frost without injury. 
4. Brunsvigia multiflora. — The flowers of this are 
brighter than the last, but, like it, it is also an autumn 
flower, and requires its rest period during the hottest part 
of the summer, and then flowers and grows in winter and 
spring. A warm greenhouse would suit it well. When used 
to the situation, so as to bloom early in autumn, a shel¬ 
tered pit out-of-doors, where the plants could be well pro¬ 
tected with glass, Ac., would, no doubt, suit them. 
5. Testudinarta Elephantipes. — Both generic and 
specific name is somewhat descriptive; the first telling us of 
the resemblance of the large corm or root, to a tortoise; and 
i the second, to the huge foot of an elephant. Small climbing 
shoots are produced in the growing period from this large 
receptacle, which produce small flowers, in spikes of a 
yellow colour. Seed has never been procured, that I am 
aware of, as the plants are disecious, each producing only male 
or female blooms. It grows freely in peat and loam, and 
will thrive well in the warm end of a greenhouse, or in a 
cool plant-stove. It will want plenty of water when growing; 
but very little after the leaves have fallen, merely enough to 
keep the roots and large receptacle from shrivelling away. 
If the shoots do not show, it will be best to be content with 
keeping the plant merely during the winter. The plant 
possesses its chief merit more from its singularity than 
beauty. Temperature, during winter, from 45° to 50°; 
during summer, a high temperature will not injure it. 
0. Hsmanthus coccineus. —This plant is so far like the 
Brunsvigia, already referred to, that, provided a high 
temperature and bright sunlight can be given to it during 
its rest period, along with comparative dryness, it requires 
but a moderate heat when blooming and growing. It will 
thrive in sandy loam, and instead of any thing else, extra 
nourishment is best given in weak manure waterings, when 
the bulb is growing freely, and when it shows its flower- 
spike. A deep, narrow pot should be used. The tempera¬ 
ture of the greenhouse will suit it in winter. A closer, 
warmer atmosphere may be given to the plant in spring, 
before its leaves begin to die down ; and a dry atmosphere 
and a high temperature will be its glory afterwards. Mr. 
Beaton, in his admirable papers on bulbs, recommends it to 
be grown planted out in yellow loam, in a cold pit, protected 
from frost, and says, that in a few years it would produce 
flower spathes truly grand. We have no doubt he is right. 
We have seen many bulbs bloom in a border close to the 
wall of a hothouse as they never bloomed in pots, with 
all the care that could be given them. How easily 
could an amateur have a narrow pit, some three or four 
feet wide, close to the sido of his little greenhouse, or 
hothouse, for the culture of bulbs alone planted out. A 
small pipe might run along its front to keep out frost, 
or shutters might be placed in the front-wall of the house, 
the back wall of the pit, by sliding which, enough of hot-air 
would be admitted; moveable glass, or even thin wooden 
partitions, could be used to shut in bulbs requiring different 
treatment; such as bulbs that grow in summer ; and, on the 
other hand, those that rested in summer. Dryness and 
i moisture would be the chief distinctions, as respects these 
divisions; for the regulating of air alone would regulate 
temperature at that period. Now, the amateur is the proper 
j person to do this, and to do it well; or a gardener, who will 
take the whole care upon himself; and, whatever the 
I emergency, allow neither man nor boy to go near it. Other¬ 
wise, the particular pit will become a common receptacle for 
bedding-plants and other things; or some clever, young 
blue aproner will saturate a division that could not well 
have been too dry. All we, who once were young, know full 
well, that it is not quite such an easy matter to keep the 
head and the hands duly working in company, though we 
are apt to forget this, when, on such occasions as the above, 
wo wonder what young men will come to now-a-days! 
Candidly speaking, however, if in many things wo are ob¬ 
taining greater breadths of view, there seems to be less 
knowledge of, and less attention to, those minulice which 
constitute the basis of success; and many good things are 
neglected, just because, on the mere practice of routine, 
they cannot and will not be grown. 
7. Stapelia Sororia. —This is rather a strong-growing 
succulent, when contrasted with others of the same family, 
all distinguished by their most singular and beautiful star- 
like flowers, and which are as disagreeable to the nose, as 
they are curious to the eye. The whole genus thrives in 
sandy loam, and lime, and brick-rubbish ; and when freely 
growing will relish top-dressings of cow-dung and manure- 
waterings. In the present instance, being fresh imported, 
a warmish place and just a little water will bo desirable. 
When fully established, it will generally bloom about Mid¬ 
summer. Before and after blooming it will require water 
and full exposure to sunshine. As the autumn approaches, 
the more sunshine it has and a high temperature the 
better. As the nights increase in length, in September, 
water must be gradually withheld, and, during winter, none 
must be given, unless the shoots shrivel much. Generally, 
they will absorb sufficient moisture from the atmosphere at 
that period. A temperature of from 40° to 50° will suit it 
then ; as the days lengthen, about March and April, a little 
water should be given. The whole family are easily propa¬ 
gated. Take off pieces in spring, when in a dryish state ; 
let the base dry well, and then insert in sandy loam, and 
they will soon root. The treatment recommended for Cactus 
will also suit this tribe. They form good companions to 
Aloes, Haworthias, Mesembryanthemums, Ac. 
8. Euphorbia meloformis. —This is a singular melon¬ 
shaped plant, rearing itself to from six to twelve inches 
in height, and a grotesque object among many out-of-the- 
way comrades. It will appear to best advantage among 
small succulents, such as Stapelias and Aloes. The treat¬ 
ment it requires is very similar, only it will need a little 
more moisture in winter, and a rather higher temperature, 
from 45° to 55°. 
9. Euphorbia spes.' —This we are not at all acquainted 
with ; probably the s is substituted for a c, and then it 
would merely signify a species. Spinosa is a spiny-stemmed 
species, from the Levant, that will flourish in our green¬ 
houses, and has stood out of-doors in some sheltered places. 
Whatever the species may be, one rule will be a pretty safe 
guide : if firm and woody in the stems, it will require 
more moisture in winter than if they are succulent and 
spongy. A warm greenhouse, or from 45° to 50° in winter, 
will most probably suit it. All the species, and especially 
the succulent kinds, when it is desired to propagate them, 
should bo allowed to dry at the base before inserting them 
in loose, rough soil, such as lime-rubbish and sandy-loam. 
The cuttings should also bo taken off when the plants are 
dry. Beware that the milky juice does not get access to any 
wound, however skin-deep. 
10. Zamia uorrida .—Zamria horrida is evidently a mis¬ 
nomer. This plant, in its appearance, has something of a 
go between a Fern and a ralm. Whoever comes in contact 
with its bristling leaves will find it is horrid enough. It 
grows freely in peat and loam ; likes a fair amount of water 
at all times; takes what heat in summer our climate can 
give in a greenhouse ; and from 48° to 55° in winter, with a 
rise of 10° or 15° from sunshine. It may be kept in the 
warm end of a greenhouse; but a plant-stove is its appro¬ 
priate home in winter.] 
BILBERRY AND CRANBERRY CtJLTURE. 
“ T. W. wishes to know if Bilberrys and Cranberrys will 
grow upon peat, with a subsoil of sand, if in a dry or moist 
situation in the shade, or exposed to the sun. When plants 
could be procured, or seed, which would be the most con¬ 
venient mode of raising plants, if practicable.” 
[Cranberries grow in moist, peaty soils, such as are never 
quite dry ; they do not require shade. Bilberries are upland 
plants, and will thrive in any sandy, peaty soils, if firm. We 
moved several masses of the latter from their wilds, a few 
years since, to help to decorate some stone-walls. We merely 
placed thick peaty turves beneath them, the heather down¬ 
wards, and skewered the masses on them. They have 
succeeded very well. Plants may be procured from any 
' district whore they grow wild, or seed may be obtained from 
j such markets as Covent G arden, or from seedsmen in districts 
j where they thrive. We should not fear your sandy subsoil, 
I if plenty of good soil above.] 
