October 31. 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
89 
to make it worth while to advertise them, therefore, we of 
Tiie Cottage Gardener are on the same level as our 
readers with respect to them. 
You have just hit the nail where the difficulty of making 
nosegays lies, hut it is an extravagant notion to think to 
learn how to make them until we have the summer flowers 
over again; ten or twenty shillings worth of flowers is soon 
swallowed that way in the winter ; but we shall not let the 
fashion fade, depend upon it. We must not say that the 
pyramidal way of training is “ the best. 1 ' It is only best with 
those who think so. We think it is the best way for many 
plants. You are of this opinion also, but let us not be too 
fast; let us rather see if we can manage the Geraniums 
first—too much of a good thing spoils the appetite. We 
must not have pyramid frames to train to; that is a slovenly 
way; prune, pinch, stop, tie, train, pot, and shift, upon 
scientific principles, as we have been teaching these six 
years, and you can give a plant any shape you please. Your 
large Geranium must be put into a smaller pot early in the 
spring, else the bottom will never break ; but you shall have 
more directions by-and-by.] 
MIMULUS WITH TULIPS AND HYACINTHS. 
“ Having read in your last number the recommendation 
of 1 Dwarf Mimulus,’ to be now planted with Tulips, or 
Hyacinths, I beg to ask whether the ordinary Mimulus is 
intended, which every one is acquainted with ? My reasons 
for the question are, 1st, that it is considered to want so 
much water that a Tulip-bed would be too dry for it; 2ndly, 
that being of a succulent nature, and usually kept in green¬ 
houses, it would appear to be unable to stand the winter 
exposed.—S. C., Hampstead." 
[It was not the “ordinary Mimulus” which we recom¬ 
mended, but a dozen of the new varieties, or two dozen, if 
required. The following are those we cultivate ourselves, 
but double that number may ho had in the London nur¬ 
series. We do not find they want more water than other 
spiing flowers. They are, also, great ornaments for the 
greenhouse or conservatory in the spring, when well-grown 
in pots.—Picta, Delicata, Scarborough Defiance, Excelsa, 
Grange Perfection, Venus, Queen Yictoiia, Novelty, Sambo, 
Orange Iloven, Conspicua, Alma, Brother Jonathan, 
Miranda, Marginata.] 
HOW TO GROW CLIMBERS IN A STOVE. 
or the brush are strangers. This may be set down as 
a law that must never be infringed: all stove-creepers, 
from February to October, should have a dressing and 
training once a month, to keep them separate from each 
other, and pretty close to their guides, the training rods. 
Many stove-creepers grow so rampant, that in order to 
keep them within bounds it is desirable not to plant 
them in rich soils, or else to cramp them at their roots 
by growing them in boxes or large pots. I have just now a 
Stephanotis growing in a pot sixteen inches wide, and fourteen 
inches deep, in full flower; whereas, a neighbour has one 
planted out that scarcely ever blooms. These hints will be 
sufficient to guide you in both training your creepers and 
managing their roots, so as to] give a moderate growth and 
plenty of bloom. You may plant the following species, all of 
them, if your house is a large one; or, if small, those only 
that are marked with an asterisk. 
*AUamanda Schottii 
Bignonia venusta 
♦Cissus discolor; beautiful 
foliage 
Clerodendron splendens 
‘Combretum purpureum 
•Dipladenia crassinoda 
- splondens 
Ipomea Horsfallii 
*- Learii 
and two or three climbing Fer 
*Jasminum Sambac pleno 
Manettia bicolor 
Passiflora alata superba 
- Buonapartea 
* - Kermisina 
-quadrangularis 
* - racemosa 
Pliarbitis ostrina 
♦Stephenotis floribunda 
i, if tlio house is large.] 
STORING DAHLIA ROOTS. 
“You will particularly oblige a subscriber to The Cottage 
Gardener of four years, if you will kindly mention, in your 
next number, how he is to preserve his Dahlia roots through 
the coming winter, and if it injures them to cover their 
crowns.— Farnham, Surrey.” 
[As soon as the stems are rendered useless by the frosts, 
cut them down to within six inches of the ground; then 
take the whole of the stool up without injuring the tubers. 
Dry the whole thoroughly by exposure to the sun and wind; 
then put them into a box, or other receptacle, in their 
natural position, not crushed together, or one upon another; 
cover them with dry sand, and store them in a cool, dry 
place, where the frost cannot touch them.] 
“ Will Mr. Appleby have the kindness to say which is the 
best way of fitting up the inside of a span-roofed stove, 
where it is intended to plant climbers out to cover the roof, 
aud to have plants in pots as well; and what are the best 
plants for the purpose ?— Inquirer.” 
[It must be supposed, for you do not say that is so, that 
your span-roofed stove has rafters, and then your creepers 
should be trained under them, so as not to shade too 
much the plants iu pot in the house. To accomplish 
this in the best manner, you should liavo fixed two wire 
rods projecting a little on each side of the rafters, about 
nine inches apart, and nine inches below the rafters. To 
these wire rods, which should be about the thickness of the 
pen-holder I have in my hand, the creepers should be 
trained in an easy, graceful way, so as not to appear stiff, 
or tight-laced. In addition to these straight wire rods, a 
J pleasing effect would be produced by having, if the walk is 
j in the centre, two other rods running lengthwise in the house, 
but in a wavy manner, so as to give, when clothed with 
creepers, a festoon-like effect. If the walk lead round the 
house with platforms next the upright windows, and a 
stage or pit, or platform in the centre, then these festoons 
should be in the highest part of the house, about a foot 
from the roof, where it is supported by a long-eyed nail and 
two feet at the lowest part of the bend or wave. These 
festoons should be in one line only, and when hung with 
flowers will have the very finest effect. Avoid, however, 
any approach to crowding. Though nothing is so pleasing 
as seeing beautiful climbers, such as I mention below, when 
in flower and closely attended to in training, yet, if 
they are allowed to grow in a wild manner, interlacing 
each other, and shading everything below, they are then 
utterly at variance with good management, and appear 
very like a head covered with hair to which the comb 
POULTRY. 
WORMS IN POULTRY. 
“ I saw in The Cottage Gardener of September 12, 
page 406, the case of the diseased Dorking pullets. I have 
just had a Shanghae pullet that appeared to be in the same 
way; I confined her and gave her the best of food, and she 
used to eat heartily; but she became weaker, and at last I 
killed her, as I did not like to see her in that state. In 
examining her, I could not find anything to indicate disease; 
but some time afterwards, in looking at her intestines, I 
saw a quantity of worms that had crawled out from the 
part where the gizzard had separated from the intestines. I 
have no doubt that the worms, from the quantity, were the 
cause of her wasting so gradually away. Perhaps Mr. 
Tegetmeier will suggest a remedy for worms in fowls, as I 
find Cochins are very subject to them.—A Subscriber.” 
[I have opened many hundred dead fowls, and invariably 
have examined the intestinal tube from end to end. My 
own personal experience would not lead me to say that 
worms are not common in fowls. In cases where I 
suspected their existence, I should give two or three grains 
of calomel and five of jalap, and repeat, if necessary, in 
four or five days; and, at the same time, I should endeavour 
to get rid of that debility of the system which usually 
favours and accompanies their presence; this I should do 
by small doses of iron, and would direct attention to an 
article in the series on the “Poultry Medecine Chest,” 
which will either appear in this or the following number. 
Instead of the above plan, twenty drops of spirits of 
turpentine might be given mixed up with moist meal; but I 
should prefer the treatment previously indicated.—W, B. I 
Tbgetmeier,] 
