OCTOBEB 31, 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
01 
TO CORRESPONDENTS. 
*** We request that no one will write to the departmental writers of 
The Cottage Gahdenee. It gives them unjustifiable trouble and 
expense. All communications should be addressed “ To the Editor of 
The Cottage Gardener, 2, Amen Corner, Paternoster Row, London.” 
" An Amateur,” “A Country Rector," and “ Flora,” will meet with 
early attention. 
Errata,— Vines in pots. Page 22, line from top 26, for “there is 
still hope of getting a crop next season,” read “there is little hope,” &c. 
The substitution of the word is apt to lead to error. In last line, first 
column, page 5, for “first question,” read “food question.” First 
column, page 41, 20th line from bottom, for "spores,” read “ spurs.” 
Payne’s Hives. —These are seven inches deep, and not “ eleven,” as 
stated at page 52. 
Churn for Two Cows. —“One of your subscribers wishes to know 
what churn is most suitable for two cows. I think Burgess’ Improved 
American is the best. I have seen the Sussex glass old barrel, and a 
many other descriptions of churn used, but always found the American to 
! answer best. The one I use was purchased from Deane, Old Swan 
i Wharf, London Bridge. Can you tell me where I can procure one gander 
and two geese of the White Embden breed for stock ? If you can, I shall 
feel obliged.—A Subscriber, Farnham. [Some of ou” readers answer¬ 
ing this query will oblige us.] 
Various (A Learner). — Radishes for earliest spring use must be 
sown in a gentle hotbed in December, and in the open ground, covered 
with litter, once a month from December to February. Geranium Cut¬ 
tings will strike in pots plunged in a bark bed. Bees in the old-fashioned 
hive are best fed by raising the hive by an eke, that is a circle or two off 
from the bottom of another hive, and putting the food in a proper feeder 
into the space thus formed under the combs. 
Fattening Pigs (G. N, II.). —You will find, at page 451 of our 284th 
Number, a brief summary of our knowledge in this matter. 
Planting Atples and Pears (A Subscriber). —You say your “ soil is 
high, light, deep, and on a gravelly subsoil,” but in what part of England ? 
Brussels Sprouts ( A Worcester Subscriber). —Cut the sprouts now 
whilst firm, and about the size of a Walnut. Cut the largest first, and 
the smaller will continue to increase, and must be cut as fast as they 
attain the size named. No more sprouts will come from the places where 
sprouts have been cut. There will be no second crop. Last of all the 
head may be cut. 
Fleming on the Pine Atple (IF. TV.).—You had better inquire of 
the nearest bookseller. 
Minesi’s Incubator (J. W. Webster). —Wc believe this apparatus is 
very successful in hatching, but the difficulty only begins with the birth 
of the chicken. Rearing them then commences. 
Bramah Pootras (A Friend). —Hr. Hewitt has never expressed as 
his opinion that they are a distinct breed. Some societies admit them 
as a variety, and give them a class to themselves ; but we think that 
nothing more need be said about them. 
Beet Root Wine.— W. B. II. will be obliged by a recipe for this. 
Various (Oscar), —We have no idea of what your Meladone may be. 
It is only a local name, and not a dictionary or catalogue name. The 
right name of Pyrus juponica is Cydonia japonicu. You seem to manage 
it quite right; it increases best from cuttings of the roots, four or five 
inches long, and to be put in in February. Rhododendrons do not re¬ 
quire rotten dung, and are best without it. Good peat and a little sand 
suit them better, and as they bear the knife as well as the Gooseberry, 
there is no reason why they should have bare stems. Cut them in when 
they are getting out of blossom, and that will keep them bushy and in 
good health. 
Mushrooms (T.).—These may be grown very well in horse-dung on 
a bark-bed, which must be about the same depth as for plunging pots 
in a bark stove. Mushrooms can be grown in the light as well as in 
the dark. 
List of Poultry Snows.—We cannot insert any in our list except 
those which the Committee think of sufficient public interest to advertise 
in our columns. 
Apple-tree Branches dying (W, Ledger). —What is your soil and 
subsoil ? Are they well drained ? 
Work on Gardening (G. Sinks), —Buy The Cottage Gardeners’ 
Dictionary. Its price is 8s. 6d. 
“ Madras Beans.” — A Subscriber wishes to know where he can 
obtain the Beans known by that name at Poonah and Bombay. 
Names of Plants (Philo).— One of the Golden Rods, Solidago pro- 
cera. (C. Copley). —1. Lobelia fulgens. 2. Lobelin speciosa. 3. Cistus 
crispus, or Curled-leaved Rock Rose. (Brcntingby Cottage).— 1 , Ammo- 
bium alatum. 2. Erigeron speciosum. (Oscar).—3. Is the Scabiosa 
atropurpurea, a biennial plant, and one of the most useful of plants for 
ornamenting our flower-borders from June to November. This species 
yields an endless variety of colours, although specifically called as above; 
and when sown about the first of August, in some bye-place for trims- 
planting into the flower-borders in the spring, where they will flower the 
same year. 4. Ccntaurea cyanus; this is an annual of great beauty, 
which should be sown about the first of April in the open ground ; also 
may be sown in August for early blooming. It is a native of our own 
fields, as well as all Europe, and very various in colours, and very orna¬ 
mental in our flower-borders. (Carrig Cathol). —1. Tacsonia ignea. 
2. Statiee latifolia, or Broad-leaved Sea Lavender. 3. Myrica gale, 
S'v. et Gale or Candlcbcrry Myrtle. 4. Lobelia sccunda (?). (It. D. 
Wimbledon). —1. Veronica spicata alba (?) 2. Begonia parvifolia. 3, 
Melastoma; species doubtful. 4. Lycopodium lielveticum. 5. Cen- 
tradenia rosea. (Oscar). — Salvia Grahamii; a common greenhouse 
plant, which makes a good bedder. (Retsel).—Aloes are too numerous 
to be recognised by a slight description. 4. Oxalis floribunda. S. Begonia 
discolor. 6. B. nitida. 7. Ipomoea quamoclit. 
Names of Fruit (.4 Young Amateur ).— Pears— 1. Louise Bonne 
of Jersey. 2. Marie Louise. 3. Easter licurre. 4 . Nclis d’ Hivcr. 
5. Buchanan’s Spring Ileurre. 6. Gansell’s] Bergamot. Apples— 1. 
Blenheim Pippin. 2. Unknown. 
CALENDAR FOR NOVEMBER. 
FLOWER-GARDEN. 
Anemones, plant for succession bloom. Auriculas and Polyan¬ 
thuses, put under shelter (See October). Bulbous Roots, finish 
planting: in dry weather; pot for latest forcing, and for plunging in 
flower-beds, Sec. Carnation layers, finish planting and potting; secure 
the pot at once from rain. Climbers of all sorts, plant, prune, and 
train. Compost, prepare and turn in dry weather. Crocus, pot large 
lumps from the borders for forcing. Chrysanthemums, against walls 
or fences, secure from frost. Half-hardy bulbs in borders, secure from 
frost and rain by a boarded covering. Dahlias, cut down after frost, i 
and let roots remain as long as it is safe ; when taken up, dry them in 
open sheds, Sec., before storing, where frost and damp cannot reach them. I 
Dress the beds and borders, and put mark-sticks to bulbs and other 
roots, to guide you when digging. Edgings, plant. Evergreens, | 
finish planting, b. Fibrous-rooted plants, finish dividing and 
planting, b. Fork over borders, Sec. Gladiolus : all the old sorts 
may yet be planted; most of the new do better planted in spring. 
Grass, cut very close the last time; kept clear of leaves; and roll. 
Gravel, weed and roll. Hedges, plant, clip, and clear at bottom. 
Hoe and rake shrubberies, and bury the leaves, Sec. between the plants. 
Hollyhocks, finish planting. Layering, perform at intervals, if fine 
weather, till March. Leaves, gather for compost, Sec. Marvel of 
Peru, take up and store like Dahlias. Mulch round trees and shrubs 
lately planted. Plant perennials and biennials (See October). Plant¬ 
ing, deciduous shrubs and trees, perform generally, and finish as early as 
practicable. Potted Plants, for forcing, plunge in the earth of a well- 
sheltered border facing the sun. Prune shrubs and trees generally. 
Ranunculuses, plant for earliest bloom. Seedlings of them, in boxes, 
Sec., remove to a warm situation. Weak Roses, prune without delay; 
very strong ones, delay pruning till March; tender ones, secure from 
frost with moss, fern, &c. Shrubs of all kinds, plant, stake, and mulch. 
Suckers, from Roses and other shrubs, separate and plant. Tigridias, 
save from frost as long as possible; should not be dried till January or 
February. Tulits, finish planting, b. D. Beaton, ! 
GREENHOUSE. 
Air, admit rather freely, in dry weather. Azaleas, for blooming 
early, keep in the warmest end of the house, and they will not lose many 
of their leaves ; if the buds are well set and prominent, a few may receive 
the heat of a plant stove, to bring them in by Christmas; those once 
forced will come earlier of their own accord again. Those for flowering 
in spring and early summer keep as cool as possible, so that the tempera¬ 
ture is above 35°. Bulbs, such as Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissus, Sec., pot 
for spring flowering, and so manage them that roots shall precede flower- 
stems. Calceolarias, keep growing slowly, in an airy, moist atmo¬ 
sphere ; seedlings, pot off, and prick into pans ; cuttings of shrubby ones 
may now be potted, and cuttings may even be put in in the beginning of 
