238 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
December 26. 
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which his wife chose to commemorate her own name, 
Madame Laffay, which is still classed among the best 
Roses, we may believe that wo could get superior 
seedlings, if we went earnestly to work on the mass of 
Roses now ready at our hands. La Quintinie is the best 
dark crimson Bourbon Rose; Scipion and Charles Souchet 
are not far behind it, in the same colour; the Malmaison 
is the best blush, and Acidalie is still the best white in 
this section. The dark crimson Bourbons are of delicate 
constitution, and require high cultivation ; none of them 
are good seeders in England ; but let them be grown 
strong in pots in the Orchid-house, and they must seed 
freely. I have seen Bouquet de Flora full of hops and 
seeds in the open border, and Mr. Rivers suggests to 
plant Acidalie against a south wall, in order to make it 
fruitful; the south wall is his favourite place for all 
parent Roses for crossing. 
To have a bed of “ pure, pearly-white Roses,” none 
are so good as Clara Sylvain and Madame Bureau — ! 
both Chinas,— Clara Sylvain, being the strongest of the | 
two, ought to occupy the middle of the bed. Mrs. 
Bosanquet is the next best, in the next tint—a blush 
Rose, and, with Napoleon round the outside, makes a 
tine bed. Cramoisie Superieure is the best crimson 
China for bed or border. The best scarlet is Fahvicr, 
and Madame Brcon the best rose-coloured ; but ho men¬ 
tions all the groups which may be safely planted as beds 
trom among the Chinas, and he instances, as the best 
parents, Euyene Bcauharnois, a deep crimson, and 
Fahvicr, scarlet; also Archduke Charles and Fabvier; 
the latter, being a half-double Rose, has sufficient pollen 
for experiments. 
All very double Roses can only be female parents; 
and in order to get at their stigmas, Mr. Rivers advises 
some of the central petals to be removed—very good | 
advice. Petals never assist the process of the pollen, as [ 
far as I am aware of, and no barm can come of re¬ 
moving some of them in any ilower I know. Tea 
Roses, “in all moist soils and situations, when grown on 
their own roots, must have a raised border in some warm 
and sheltered place be protected in winter, and not be 
fully exposed at once when the covering is removed in 
the spring. I have seen a good deal of harm done to 
many half-hardy plants by taking off the winter covering 
too soon in the spring, and .altogether at once. The 
borders of the Orchard-house, ho says, is the right place 
for Tea Roses; but, like all good gardeners, he believes 
that bottom-heat, in the open-air, would do as well for 
China Roses as for Grinum and other Amaryllids ; as 
recommended by Mr. Herbert, many years since; and 
he gives directions for having them with bottom-lieat 
full in the sun all the summer. The Tea Rose called 
Canary, he says, “abounds in pollen;” and, as Tea 
Roses are mostly grown in pots for conservatories, every 
one ought to have this pollen plant to try experiments, 
if only for mere amusement. He recommends Vicom- 
tesse Decazes to be tried with it; but he gives the names 
of others, and of all, in the shy seeding groups, that are 
“almost sure to produce it.” Ho mentions, as an 
extremely singular cross, Rosa Hardi, a cross between a 
variety of Macartney and Berberifolia, which was once 
believed not to be a true Rose at all; and ho says this 
will be the parent of an entirely new group ; but let us ; 
hope not, till we get rid of two-thirds of the “groups” I 
we now possess. Surely, five groups could cover all the I 
Roses in the world, and simplify them so that all might 
Know which was which at first sight. D. Beaton. 
WATERING PLANTS IN POTS IN .WINTER. 
Watering, at all times, being an operation demand- ! 
ing thought and attention, requires that attention 
peculiarly in winter. In a hot July it is not so easy to | 
overdo with water, because the heat and sunshine soon 
evaporate the extra liquid; but in winter, too great an 
amount of moisture has either ruined, or rendered con¬ 
stitutionally weak, and subject to hosts of insects, many 
a valued plant. All the peculiar rules of knowing 
whether the soil in a pot is dry—its weight, the sharp 
ring when struck on the side with the knuckles, and the 
difficulty with which water percolates when poured 
gently on the surface,—should be well attended to. The 
great rule,—applicable to every growing plant,—water 
so as to reach every fibre, and thon contentedly wait 
until the soil becomes dry enough to require fresh 
moistening, demands particular attention in winter. 
Tested by this rule, the utter impossibility of answering 
the question so often put, “ How often shall I water 
such plants ?” must at once be apparent. Water when 
the fibres are just beginning to want moisture, but not 
before. A constant dribbling is just the process most 
calculated for giving a plant, whose natural dwelling 
may be the dry plain, the still dryer hill-side or ridge of 
mountain top, all the requisite conditions that would 
suit one brought from a marsh or a lake. This, again, 
is just one reason why marsh plants often flourish so 
ill with us. We give them the usual routine of the 
garden, the greenhouse, and plant-stove; and though 
many become suited to the circumstances, many others 
will never feel at home. While, therefore, in cold 
weather, a plant near a heating apparatus, either in 
plant-stove or greenhouse, may require watering every 
other day—similar plants, in a cool greenhouse, in a 
window merely free from frost, or in a cold-pit, may 
require moistening cuce in a month or two. 
Just examine, for instance, the plants in that cold 
frame, or pit, which the amateur is so anxious to refresh 
with his water-pail; and what could be more unneces¬ 
sary. Try them by whatever test, and the soil is moist 
enough. A clear sunshine at this season does but little 
to exhaust the moisture in such places, it merely enables 
the plants to get a change of sweeter air more liberally. 
Unless frosty, the air will give nearly as much moisture 
as it will take; and though it does take away enough 
moisture from the surface of the pots to cause them to 
look a little dry, it is very likely that a dull day, or a 
dull, sunless week may succeed, and your plants will 
get as much moisture, or rather more than is good for 
them, from the misty atmosphere alone. No general 
helter-skelter waterings should ever be given in such 
circumstances in the winter months. Not a drop of 
water should be given that can be avoided. The wetter 
the plants are, the more subject they are to feel the 
chills of cold, frosty weather. The soil, by evaporation', 
may even get to the freezing point when the atmo¬ 
sphere above the pots is several degrees higher in tem- 
peraturo. If the weather demands that such receptacles 
should be closely shut up in such circumstances, and 
the plants should escape King Fiost, how liable are 
they to be carried off by Mr. Damp, and his fungous- 
like broods. Every plant, when watering is demanded, 
should be carefully watered separately ; and if the ope¬ 
rator has not accustomed himself to give such as much 
as will suffice, without spilling a drop, or allowing any 
to run through the pot, he should lift each pot that 
wants moistening outside; water it there, and replace 
it only when thoroughly drained. 
In a plant-stove, or warm greenhouse, according to 
the rules given, water will be more or less often 
necessary, in jnoportion to the artificial heat given, the 
state of the weather, and the amount of sunshine, and 
the free growing and flowering, or comparative repose 
of the plants. Even in winter, when the house lies well 
to the sun, when the previous night has been frosty, 
and strong fires have been used, followed by a clear sun 
on the following day, the evaporating of moisture will 
be great, and waterings must be afresh communicated. 
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